I didn’t find a thread in which this was already addressed (otherwise, please delete, sorry)… For a few days (I don’t know exactly), the pull-down selection of the thread pages is only to be found at the bottom. Previously, this was also available at the top so that you didn’t have to scroll down if you wanted to jump to the last entry.
Author: 00c12f
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Speed only slows down / hangs briefly when switching or domes
Hello, my Leon Cupra BJ 2007 spins the speed since the latest. As soon as you walk off the gas, no matter if you are coupled or uncoupled, the car still gives gas independently. So the speed decreases more slowly when you couple, than normal, partly still hangs something etc. The car is connected accordingly later on from the gas than you actually do with the pedal. The speed is sometimes not at 800 rpm, but partly at 1000 rpm, hangs there for several seconds, It’s always a bit different, but not as it should be. If the car is cold, it actually runs correctly. The warmer it gets, the more the error occurs and after 30min drive it is “the worst”. Sometimes you stand at the traffic light and at once it regulates slightly up to 1500 rpm and then down again. Had the car in the meantime in the workshop. The throttle valve was removed and cleaned, but that didn’t have anything to do with it. The workshop doesn’t really know any advice, so I ask again here. Errors are: P1093 Fuel measurement system Bank 1 2 Misfunction implausible signal Error Test cycle complete sporadic error Error would cause no lightening of a warning lamp P0507 Idle speed control Speed exceeded over set value upper limit Error Test cycle complete sporadic error Error would cause no lightening of a warning lamp De r P0507 is probably gone after the redevelopment of the throttle valve, but the workshop does not know any advice about the P1093 either. Has anyone had an idea or the problem before? What can be definitely excluded or what can one narrow down? Thanks already and many greetings!
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Seat Leon 5f Family-friendly?
So friends of the sun, have read a lot of topics for a long time and it is soon time with us, offspring is on and d the Hyundai Getz wants to be replaced. Many cars we have looked at and also test drives, from combi to minivans (Meriva , Golf plus) But we are most likely to agree the golf class. And since we have not yet exceeded the 30 (not misunderstood) we would want to have a car which is something sporty and family-friendly. So the Seat Leon is very interesting. Is the 5F enough for a small family? Enough space for everything? The next question would be the motorization. 1.2 110 hp or 1.4 125 ps? We drive 60% city 20 land and rest highway and mostly quieter. But sometimes also something with steam. Is the extra charge for 1.4er, extra power worth it? And is the 1.2er with 110 too much overgrown and has hardly any reserves? Am not a professional in the matter of cars and engine, but all the statements I have taken up so often
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Leon ST Cupra 300 4Drive original Wintercomplete wheel
Hello, I’m about to get a Leon ST Cupra 300 4Drive and I’m looking for a fancy wintering alufelgen. I wanted to buy the original Seat Leon Cupra winter complete wheels Alufelgen bright black 235/35 R19. There are also original winter complete wheels in 18 inch 225/40 R18 in silver, which I don’t like optically on a pirineos grey Leon. I like the original 19 inch really good. But I have to remember that in winter the rims with the tire combination too hard How are your experiences? I looked around in the accessories after 18 inches rims and there are so many not in 7.5×18. In the COC it says that only 7.5×18 are allowed for 18 inches!
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230GE – some problems – power loss, high consumption, slip through when gear changes
Dear G-meinde, I have finally fulfilled my dream and bought me a G-Class. At the beginning it was allowed to be the small 230er. Since the car has some problems, I have here a bit through the forum and think to be able to estimate some already already. Since here some members are really very well informed, I hope one of you lovers can give me a comment with to the one or another on the way. Point 1: The G consumes m.E. after too much, in the city over 2 If you don’t switch on the mountain, the car will even slow down. (Kickdown button probably also defective) Could the Lamba probe be?! Have read something from the emergency run program and the properties would fit the described problem. I will check candles, oils, air filters, LMM, distribution cap and jet force separately. Anyone else an idea? Point 2: The automatic transmission is basically good and fast, but when changing gear 3 to 4 the whole thing will slip. Have also read about a spring screw that should be replaced and if necessary a slight increase in the pressure in the gearbox. Anyone else’s idea? Point 3: The car has some game in the steering. By playing I mean that the steering wheel can safely turn 2-3 centimetres to the right, in which no reaction on the axle arrives. Which points should be checked then. Here is someone’s idea? For more information. I’m not a mechanic myself, but I’m not completely ignorant either. A friend is a master and now self-employed (leader at MB). I’d like to hire him to do this, but I know that not everyone at MB is really fit about the topic of G-Class. That’s why I hope to get some impressions and ideas for the above-mentioned things and thus to streamline the whole process. “The needle in the haystack can be found faster if you know about where it can be located. nte.” Thank you in advance. Greetings Nick
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OM642 320 CDI jerks AGR, charging pressure controller?
Hi, the following problem on my W164 ML 320 CDI OM642 224ps approx. 290tkm Bj2005: The car jerks when speeding up and goes into the emergency run. In addition, the turbo always gives a flutter of itself when you release the accelerator pedal. The problem exists since last winter, where it did not want to start and had to be helped. At that time the problem was in the exhaust pressure sensor and after exchange the car drove again for 30km without problems but then again the same, emergency run. This time the error became 251 1 AGR monitoring set, so I renewed the AGR valve, but the problem persists. Then I removed the turbo, the intake manifold and the EKAS actuator. The rod of the throttles had a lot of play, so I renewed this and checked the EKAS for smooth operation and installed everything again without success, still the same problem. At the moment the error is 2510 charging pressure regulator – malfunction or defective stored, but if I set the charging pressure plate This is because during the test you can see the controller working at the charging pressure selector and at 10% it stays up (i.e. too) and at 90%(i.e., you can clearly stop the turbo as it pulls the air. The funny thing is that the charging pressure selector always stays open at 90% at the bottom of the idle. Can someone tell me how his controller behaves? So the position in idle mode and at 1500 rotations would help me even further. someone with the same problem or tips, what should I consider next?
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SL 63 AMG M156 Engine Prevention ?
Hello, in a few days I will pick up my new SL 63 AMG with the 6.2 liter M156 engine. Now I have read in the net of weak points of the engine (jack shaft adjusters, breaking screws etc.). Since I want to drive the vehicle for a long time, it is very important to me that the aggregates also work clean and unproblematic. My vehicle is a 2008er and has 120,000 km down. The vehicle was driven by an older Dr. and was every year, every 10,000km at Mercedes for maintenance, a really well-kept vehicle. Now to my question: is it possible to check the vehicle or the engine for these flaws purely preventively and to exchange worn parts if necessary? If so, is there a well-known workshop or specialist for this? The ABC chassis problem is known to me, will have a flushing done. Thank you all in advance and look forward to your comments. Greetings Can
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Metzeler tires on Harley
Hello, who has experience with tires of the company Metzeler on Harley Davidson from year 2000 ?? Currently from Harley Davidson runs an action for the conversion of original Dunlop tires to Metzeler ME 880 white wall. Who buys a tire, gets the second one gifted to it. Greeting messju
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OM601 208D-KA clacked
It is the 601 engine 1994 in the T1 box with 210,000 KM the clacked. Before about 50,000Km the chain was changed due to length in MB transporter workshop. About 20,000 km later I heard for the first time a quiet clacking which however always when then Moror was warm disappeared. In addition it did not occur regularly and sounded like coming from the injection pump. Also it sounded like the sound of the injection pume if one would strengthen it. Naturally also in the flick of the injection. 15,000 KM later was there But absolutely irregular, sometimes louder, quieter, not at all. There was no regularity to be found. Sometimes 500KM no clacking and then suddenly again and disappeared again. It also came short and disappeared again, but there was more than 50% of the operating time to be heard. Then finally the clacking was present at the MB transporter workshop and the noise specialist, who also recognized the chain length at the sound (wa r then confirmed, since the vehicle was called back because of bad chain but never changed) said after some engine tests, that the camshaft on the hydro beats because it has a defective valve. Repair is not mandatory but costs approx.250€ !!! To this day the clacking is more often 80% operating time, even at top speed and sometimes even louder. L.Moly Hydropulse oil brings noise reduction but not for a long time, the engine probably burns this oil r Now I drive with 2TÖL and the engine is quieter and the clacking for the ear all the louder and I want to have the clacking away. I already read that it can also be the head seal. How can I invest what is now defective? Can one perhaps see the leak oil in the chain casing? Or something else? Would I be very angry if I changed the hydros and it clacks further.
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Engine care with additives for 350 CGI
Hello, the 350 CGI tends to russian something. So I wanted to know if someone has experience with gasoline additives from Liquid Moli. A little unclear is also what kind of product I should take. My S211 350 CGI has about 120tkm of Liquid Moli there are following products Valve Clean 1014 Injection Cleaner 5110 Petrol System Care 5108 The question is also whether the listed products actually whiten up differences or purely for marketing reasons gives greeting Marc