Hey, I was on vacation in Denmark and had to find out that there are also 92 octan gasoline, slightly cheaper than 95. Test times fuelled… the engine run with the 1.4 TSI 140 hp was identical, I had the feeling that it pulls a little worse. But at the end of the tank were 7,8l on the consumption instead of otherwise around the 6.5 with the E10 95. Driving profile rather normal as always. Can fuel with too little octan lead to so much more consumption? Anyway, I had the impression that the low-performance This is the case in the United Kingdom and the United Kingdom, where savings have been eaten up several times by the increase in consumption.
Author: 00c12f
-
What to do if the car doesn’t drive much?
hi, I bought a 7 year old starlet with 55 tkm, was always moved only in urban traffic, typical shopping car of the housewife. question: are there any measures that would recommend you to recover the engine from the “cold running stress”? enough there is a long, fast highway ride or would you recommend handles from the workshop? additive? thank you!
-
How much money for the car?
Hello Sportsfriends, since I am currently often here at Toyota “floating around” I ask the following question here: How do you actually determine how much money you invest for your new vehicle? With me the thing has always been very sober so far. At the first vehicle that I bought shortly after my studies (i.e. with my own earned money) I did not think much about it. With the following vehicles (up to 3 pcs.) I have always checked how my salary in the meantime has changed and in the same ratio I have set the budget for the new vehicle. And from this budget I tried to make the best of it. I always got quite clear about it. And you will do it again soon. How does this work out for you? Do you do it similar? Do you buy according to current account balance? Do you choose a vehicle as you like and finance it to the hardship?
-
Never again Jaguar!
So I’ve bought my Jaguar xe 2 liter diesel for 4 years “new „ I’ve been warned but thought the new models will have no problems ??jaaaa shitty mushrooms., whole 13 times workshop last stand engine bearing broken., the car has just 40000 km on the clock that is just Dacia Style., it crunches and cracks everywhere ?? so never never again Jaguar the parts are B Ware !!!
-
Paint correctly
Good afternoon, I drive a 4 golf convertible. The paint from my car is no longer the best. The car has a few rust spots, the clear varnish has burst off in some places and the previous owner has foolishly tried to paint with another paint (per spray can). I would like to repaint the car. I know that self-made can never look as good as a trained paintmaker but I would like to practice it on the car. In this thread I just want to get your experience. Preparation: First of all, I would start grinding off the entire car. First of all, quite coarsely. Weld the rust holes afterwards. So that the basic shape is restored. Then, finely sand off the complete car. What graininess is best for painting? Could a 1200 sanding paper be sufficient? If the body is then ready for painting, that is: holes welded, shape restored and dents pulled I would then Finish with silicone remover. Paint: The car should then turn blue. I prefer metallic. Is metallic difficult to paint? I would do so. I would apply the first 2-3 layers primer. Then the paint would come and finish the clear varnish. To my equipment: I have an eccentric sander and as a spray gun I have a Wagner paint spray system. That should be your own. h yes enough for painting. Now to my questions: How fine should you grind the sheet metal? Which primer would you recommend to me? How difficult is it to paint metallic? What else to consider? Any tips?
-
Cost of painting
In order to make it clear in advance, I do not want to question in any way the professional competence or the work performance of the skilled workers, that is important to me! I myself had the last car painted 30 years ago, therefore no idea of the current market prices. As an interested reader I have learned here that in a whole painting is spoken of realistic 8-10000 euros. I had to swallow quite a lot. Even if I still have some material r I don’t know how the work has changed over the years, but I can’t believe it. Or are the market prices mentioned so exaggeratedly written? Thoughtful, Robi
-
Buying went wrong
Hello together, once accepted A visits a car with gas system and B assures him that the TÜV is made new as well as a complete large inspection including change of timing belt and water pump etc. .B sends after the TÜV A the TÜV certificate that he has passed through the TÜV and wants to pick up the car as agreed with B. In the TÜV notification the gas system is still included. A assures the car and allows it and wants to pick it up, then he is informed that the Ga A has made 1000 euros of 2900 euros down payment. A wants the car to be repaired as agreed, that car was offered with car gas and so it also wishes A to be handed over. B wants the gas system to be repaired only if it is economical, otherwise it is not thought of by B. Does B have to provide the car as described in the offer after down payment or can he withdraw from the purchase contract? Must B incurred costs for the registration of insurance, admission, green posters, travel costs by public transport etc. take over at the withdrawal of the contract? Thank you!! Greetings
-
Chevrolet Orlando 1.8 or 2.0
Hello people! I would like to buy a new car and I came through my FOH on the Chevrolet Orlando, now I have not occupied myself yet Chevrolet and wolte now how you showed with the processing and reliability with your chevi since! And which is better diesel or gasoline ? And engine 1.8 is good or 2.0 ? there are problems all have with 1.8 ?? thanks already!!
-
Questions about the cylinder head seal change at the Matiz
Hello, background / motivations etc. (so you can safely skip) my wife’s matiz has been slowly consuming water for half a year. Since we don’t want to drive the car for long and I didn’t expect it to be problematic quickly, I tolerated it. Now on the way from work the engine control light has started and for a short time he probably also indicated that the engine temperature is too high. I already thought that but still wanted to get an opinion and price from the mechanic and I filled up his coolant container again the next day and left it to drive about 500m to the workshop. He jumped a bit reluctantly, squirted white and embroidered. I was already 90% sure that it is the ZKD. This confirmed also the mechanic. The cost should amount to at least 350€, which I personally find amazing little for the work. But denno The 350 is the lower floor of the price range. Since I have already done a lot of manual work on the car, I have decided to do it myself now. I have never changed a ZKD and therefore stand there a bit awe-inspiringly and do not want to do anything wrong the first time. Since I was afraid that the screws on the exhaust are so rusty that I can’t get them off, I have the Amit first started to solve all of them. I also managed to get the screw from the bottom left, except for the screw that sits above the oil filter. I think if I unscrew the oil filter, I can get the screw from the bottom better. So I already drained the oil now. It came out first about 250ml of water. So ZKD is 100% leaky.From here I need help Now I wanted to order a cylinder head seal kit via daparto am on a set of Blue Print ADG0629 4, which is delivered by Autoteile-Devil. However, with Autoteile-Devil it is not shown to me as suitable for our Matiz, only for M100 and M150. So I am on the Plueprint homepage and there it is shown for M2 (M200?) only for B10S, B10S1, LQ4. But I have no idea which engine we have. I know that it is 1.0L, 4 cylinders with 67Ps. How can I find out which engine code is installed with us and whether the seal is suitable? Instructions for changing the cylinder head. For whole sets – which I looked at – there are no cylinder head screws included. But that doesn’t mean that they are not stretch screws and that need to be replaced. Do I also need new screws?How do you leave off the cooling water on the skilfully without messing up the whole parking lot? The Matiz has no drain tap. Is it actually enough if I leave the cooling liquid at the small cooling circuit? So if I use the connection e (See ang Depending image of the cooling circuit; source: autocats.ws) drain? I want to build everything apart next, so that I only have to assemble it immediately after delivery of the parts. Do I actually have to dismantle the two wheels for alternator and climate to see the marking on the crankshaft? Can one somehow avoid the more work? In the train I also wanted to replace the oil force, because the old one is rusty and it is already last time at the TÜV as a note Since the exhaust goes directly under the oil face, I wonder if I can get the tub out there without disassemblying the exhaust. Does anyone have any experience? I will certainly have further questions. These are the ones that are currently most of my concern. Thanks in advance for the answers.
-
Dissolve chrome and then paint?
Hello together, I will soon replace the chrome with hydrochloric acid on my autologos and on the grill frame and then I want to paint. Either the copper layer remains under it or it will be completely plastic. I have a question to paint. How do I proceed? Do I have to prime and filler? Do I need 2k primer/filler or is 1K enough? Don’t know me too much about the various preliminary work. Should shine become black. Do I have to pay attention to anything else. kle primer? Or do I need detention agents or primers? In between then grinding is clear 🙂 Thank you in advance.