Author: 00c12f

  • 106er went off while driving, Starter sounds strange…

    Moinsen, yesterday morning my mother called me again: “Car is off and it does nothing more.” When I arrived I thought of fuses first and then of the OT-Geber, which I changed last year, but against a used one. When I wanted to start, I noticed the strange sound of the starter. Somehow metallers. But the pack still quite well (1st gear and short start (can you actually take this to the test?) read the 106 jumps). When I then again at the The engine was, smelled like gasoline, so I -for me – excluded the OT-guber. Gasoline pump ratters, cozy as ever, turning at the ignition key. Since the car is towed here only in the afternoon, I wanted to pick up 2-12 tips here, where I can still look. My first plan is to test the ignition coil and if necessary simply change it (but only because I have one here). Oh, what else: after a little reperature (brake rope and both cross handlebars) he arrived. without problems over the Tüv last week – was really proud of the small ^^

  • [Piaggio Zip 2 4T] Start problems with rain / humidity

    Hello dear people, I have just solved a problem with my light, there is already a new one. And this time it is perhaps even worse… Actually it is not really a new one, but since it was quite dry and mild in Berlin the last days, I had no problems. The problem course looks like this: a few weeks ago I did a rain ride of about 15 minutes without any problems. Arrived and left the scooter for a few hours (in the rain). When I was He went on to start it again, but spoke only minimally to the gas attack. I.e. even if I turned it up to the maximum, the speed did not go up enough to start it. The relatively strong smell of petrol in the air was also noticeable during all the unsuccessful start attempts. In addition, he did not go on at all after a few start attempts, or only for a second and then again. With a friend I then have the ignition a few days later in dry weather erze developed, cleaned, successfully tested for sparks and reinstalled. And then it ran again. A few days later I had the same problem again in damp weather. This time I simply put on good luck myself and installed a new spark plug from NGK. Unfortunately this had no effect immediately, the scooter did not work. I believe already the next day, it was dry again, I did, without first a start attempt, directly again the new spark plug Since then it has remained dry and, except for the separate problem with the passing beam, I no longer had comparable failures. Now we have arrived today. This morning it did not rain strongly but permanently. I start the scooter successfully and thus drive about a kilometer without any problems. When I want to stop at a traffic light and start driving green, I notice that the scooter again does not have any problems. fs responds to gas. So I push it onto the sidewalk and have described exactly the same symptoms as at the top again. After a first research I am now inclined to simply exchange the spark plug, but what does your experience tell you? What could it be? Be happy about every hint as always. Best regards!

  • Roller gets too much air??

    Hello I had already opened a topic here what about that my Speedfight 2 did not come out of the pötte (Alter Thread https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…-but-comes-not-forward-t6191359.html), at the end it turned out that the engine is over. Meanwhile a new engine is inside and I have a bit of experience on scooter screws/bassels occurred. Now my next problem when I drive on the country road gets the scooter too much air with the original air filter but the snorkel (BZW air filter throttle) is off because scooter got like this. As soon as he is e.g. in the higher speed range he takes on no more gas and it feels like he wants to get drunk but after you stop (engine does not go out) he runs back normal until you have arrived again in because high speeds, but e.g. in the city/village he does not cause any problems because he accelerates up normally and keeps the speeds. I would have to enlarge the HD right now ? le I don’t know what kind of nozzle is in the gas because the scooter is a hobbyist and I don’t know what the previous owner has done with it. (Yasuni Pott is also under what kind of guy is not known to me so he looks at least like https://www.google.de/search?…) Now would be just my question you can do what with the mixture screw so that he gets enough petrol/oil again and all this burns on the country road and doesn’t have a desire for it because of the air? Looked into the air filter, there’s a Malossi mat inside and very little petrol so not that there’s a puddle but at the thrashing to the carburetor hangs a bit at the edges, and the air filter doesn’t really want to go on the carburetor hangs a bit loose no matter how much pressure I press the on it hardly goes on. MFG Techno After a little research I found out what a pot I have under it. Is a Yasuni Z(https://www.google.de/search?…)

  • Why an A3?

    I want to buy a new car. 3 doors and sporty. The car should not be a cheap car, so without constant repetitions. My first research was the Audi A3 102 hp. There is with automatic air conditioning starting from 17.000. Then I heard that it is actually only an expensive and noble VW and I came to the SEAT Ibiza, which is supposed to be a cheap VW. But from the technology should be like Audi, VW and Seat, because they come from the same house. The Ibiza there are from 10,000. There are reasons for the A3 and against small cars of the 10,000 EUR class? Why should I not buy the Ibiza? Also looks good and it should consist mostly of VW Polo technology. I think that I pay at Audi 5000 EUR only for the brand. Or do I see this wrong? Which comparable but cheaper cars are there that would be comparable to the A3? Ford Focus costs almost more, VW Golf, Polo Fox are too unportable for me… Currently I can’t find myself between the A3 and ==References==

  • Sinus Live Bass Pump III installation (body sound converter)

    I bought 2 body sound converters from Sinus Live. The Bass Pump III. ICh already had a cheap version, as they are also offered at Ebay. I had them on the PC on the desk chair. That was quite cool – until my little sister got stuck in the cable. Anyway, I bought the good originals this time and they should be in the car. I feel good about the bass, but I don’t always want to make my hearing so loud. will set the parts so that the effect is in the realistic range, so that it fits to the heard bass volume. Please don’t make any discussions about the meaning of these parts. I have already pushed it. With the search function I have found that many people believe the bass pumps, would be to be seen as an alternative to subwoofers and therefore they tempt off as nonsense/weakness. No, they are not an alternative – they should not be at all. It is purely about the subj This is what we would have solved and I can go over to the actual question: According to the operating instructions you should screw the bass pumps with the vehicle floor. Push the seat to the front, remove the carpet, screw on the bass pump, finish. I once sniffed a VW car dealership with a mechanic from the Karrosserie department to ask on I could possibly meet some wires. That would probably not be a test. lem. But he feared that the sheet metal was so strong, with thickness and shape, that it could not be stimulated to swing. Hmm… now experience values are in demand! You don’t drill such a farware floor if it is not sure that the result is as it should be. Has someone already installed such a thing? and can tell me if the vehicle floor is suitable? If so, I would find this an ideal assembly site, as the effect appeared realistic when everything was vibrating the floor. On the other hand, you could screw the parts to the seats, as I had on the PC chair before, but then the seat mainly vibrates and because you feel nothing at the feet, you might rather notice that it is not real. Again. Please only comments that concern the assembly and do not doubt the meaning.

  • New car -> All-weather tires or SR+WR if available?

    The topic has already been discussed several times and I have already read in quite a bit (all-weather tyres vs. SR/WR). But I hope here for some advice or tips for my special situation. Due to young people we have just bought a “larger” car, a Seat Leon ST FR with 2.0L (190hp). The car is relatively new (EZ January 2019) and stands on summer tyres (Bridgestone Potenza) on the original Seat Leon “Performance” 18″ rims. The DOT is also relatively new… e at least mid-2018 or even mid-end 2018. The car now has about 10000km…how long the summer tires were driven I can’t say, because at least 2-3 months had to be driven on winter tires. For me now the question arises whether all-weather tires (Continental AllSeasonContact or Michelin CrossClimate+) or additionally a set of rims with winter tires. At Seat there is probably just a “offer”, which would be the same rims as the summer rims and rough f are Michelin Pilot Alpin 4, at least according to the offer flyer. I did not find a Pilot Alpin 4, but only Michelin Pilot Alpin PA4 or Alpin A4. What kind of tyre is the “Pilot Alpin 4” or is the name not entirely true and it is meant by the Pilot Alpin PA4? I once attached a picture of the flyer. On this, however, the profile doesn’t look like the Pilot Alpin PA4. But anyway, the tire is no longer the latest generation, right? whether it is really so smart to throw away the relatively new summer tires (with which I have to check how much profile is exactly on it) or sell for practically nothing and then raise all-weather tires. Costs for the all-weather tires incl. pull up would be about 500-550€. The winter complete wheel set is available for 310€ per bike, i.e. 1240€ in total. I’m puzzled what I do best and maybe someone has “the” tip for me here. Maybe the new Continental AllSeaso nContact even “better” than the somewhat more aged Michelin. While saving the change in the summer and winter (apart from the cost of changing wheels) is of course also pleasant. My annual driving performance is currently only 7000-8000km…which can change quickly.

  • Experience with purchase companions

    Hello, the SFU has unfortunately not promoted anything useful to day, just as little as an Internet search (Aunt Google). Unfortunately I do not understand enough of cars to make a real evaluation. I can make sure whether the clutch is “closing” whether the car holds the track, whether it moves during braking and whether it has rust or loses liquid. Of course only with the eye of a layman. I took the workshop of my trust and the TÜV once, both had easy byeina In addition, the result was “The car is fine”, but unfortunately no clear statement as to whether I should take the car or not. In my friend and acquaintance there is unfortunately no one (of whom I know) who knows about cars and could support me. Therefore, I am considering whether I should attract one of the (many) official purchase companions. But I have no experience. I’ll try my luck again on eBay Classifieds, which helped me buy a car for my wife. Thank you in advance, Edward, but I’m not sure if I’m going to be able to buy a car for my wife.

  • Change to all-year tires with me useful?

    Hello all, my 2.0 TDI Passat B7 (103 kW, DSG, variant, approx. 25,000 km per year, 60% highway, 30% highway, 10% city) would need new summer tyres and then also winter tyres in autumn. Now I’m thinking about whether I don’t go on all-year tires during our mild winters. Does that make sense from your point of view with my driving profile? Specifically, the Goodyear 4 Seasons Vector in 205 55 R16H predominates for me. In another thread, but also in the tire dimension 225 45 R17, I read about a slope z Is there anything to it? How often do you have to exchange all-year tires in an appropriate way? Thank you

  • How dubious can a dealer act?

    Hello, I am quite inexperienced, but I have read in everything. Would like to buy my second own car and have a Renault Megane (101 hp, BJ 2011, 60,000 km) in view. The price is cheap (4000 €), but it also has a few scars in front and back and a hail damage. On the pictures everything looks half as wild. I have read in all checklists, what I have to pay attention to etc. It does offer a dealer who is 50 km away. I just don’t like the way This is why I would have to leave work earlier (because of the dealer’s opening hours) and, on the other hand, I would not like to drive 100 km unnecessarily. Now I have learned two things from the dealer (after pressing questions) that the car is sold on order and therefore the liability for material defects is excluded and on the other hand the dealer says that he cannot tell me what the car looks like from below (asked for rust) because he has no lifting platform. Since I don’t have any experience, I can’t figure out whether it’s normal or more often, or if it’s a very clear sign that I should leave my fingers out. In the ad there’s a staple, etc., but if that’s true. What do you think?

  • Subwoofer only works temporarily

    Hello community, my problem I already got in the title but I will get out for a short time. So the subwoofer (JBL Stage 1200b Belief with 4 Ohm and 250w RMS) is in use for more than a year with a Magnat Pantera Two. In addition, a capacitor of Crunch is installed. In combination everything worked perfectly. Last time I accidentally let music run on battery and at some point the battery was empty. The car is no longer a I wanted to listen to music on my way to work in the morning, but then I realized that the bass was missing somehow. After the work, everything went on again. A few days later, nothing went on until the whole day and only after 20-45min the bass came back somehow. If the subwoofer doesn’t work, then the standard loudspeakers sound like o b they were completely deprived of the bass and as if the heights are very distorted. Well, yesterday I installed a new battery (maintenance-free) and the first test still didn’t work. Couple minutes later after starting again everything went and I thought the problem was solved. The battery is new, the radio goes on, the capacitor has enough voltage I think (between 12,3-14,5 [unit is missing]), the power stage shows however no functionality in the form of light the LEDs. The fuse from the power amplifier is not through and the main fuse proximity of the battery can not be through either, since the capacitor actually draws power from there. Does everything seem to work, just not stop from the beginning. So what could the problem be? If more information is needed for a remote diagnosis simply write as a comment! I hope on help! Best regards