MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Price for FoFi`92

    Hello! Search for a new car at the moment, don’t have big demands, it just has to drive. at least a year (TÜV and AU should be valid at least 1 year) and do not cause any problems… I found one and would like to hear what it is worth in your opinion… Try to describe it as well as possible. It is from a private person. – Ford Fiesta 1.3 l metallic red, varnish 1A – BJ. 92 – 60 HP – 135000 km – electric window lifter – sliding roof – new summer tires vo Rne, back also 5 mm profile – TÜV, AU until 05/07 (TÜV new for 150 € more… but I don’t want) – no rust on the tank cover (except very few bubbles under the paint on a thumb nail large place) and nothing on the wheel runs – engine completely dry, so nothing oils – checkbook maintained up to 120000 km – light (typical) clacking… – no accident – G-Kat – 2 previous owner, the first old man, the 2nd type who just bought it and wanted to sell it again, since he was 2 days late The only thing that bothers me is: no winter tires, mileage (already too high??) Besides, I should like to drive it longer, could I retrofit a cold running controller? You as people with more knowledge, tell me what it is worth, or what you would spend. Thank you very much!

  • NTC table for resistance measurement

    Hello guys I would need a NTC table as I see it in the Sig for the golf. The needle in the instrument cluster is short over minimum.The thermostat is new and I.O. Esd is a Ford Fiesta BJ 10/97 with 1.3i Endura E-Motor. Satte 60PS Thank you very much.

  • Fiesta 1.1 Bj 1994 Loss of performance

    Hello,I have the following problem.The Fiesta pulls very badly,uses forever to get into drive.On the highway it runs only about 100-110 top. Spark plugs, petrol filter, air filter are new.My friend suspects that the piston rings are stuck and have to be renewed.He measured the compression and on the first cylinder was only 3-4 bar, second and third 4-5 bar and fourth 10 bar.A colleague of mine thought that the ignition or ignition point could also be adjusted? is also clean.Who has had similar problems and can give me tips what he would recommend ?Many thanks in advance.Gruss A53

  • Omega B – X20XEV – Short circuit on radio with episodes

    Hello together At the Omega B of my daughter (98er, X20XEV, hand switch, Limo) a breakdown happened to me today. Actually I just wanted to change the camshaft sensor. The MKL lit up and the cross test referred to the NWS. I changed – everything was fine, MKL. Engine ran clean and a few laps on the yard went successful. Car is not registered yet, so I was not allowed to go to the road. Because everything ran so nicely and I still wanted to screw, I decided, n A Sony, which has at the back interchangeable connections for Dauerplus. These are pluggable cable shoes with an insulating cover above it. Before inserting into the Din shaft everything worked well, after that nothing. So radio out again. One of the two insulating covers had shifted when inserting and a contact was free. It must have come to mass. So from home and in the circuit diagram look which security comes into question. Before that I have the car radio installed. Car still driven to his parking lot. MKL again, no speed indicator, no fan. Hmmmm. The defective fuse was of course found quickly and everything now works as it should. Only the MKL continues to glow. The following errors are stored: 0335 wrong speed signal 0100 voltage LMM too low 1503 immobilizer wrong signal Last error could be related to the fact that I used a key without transponder in advance. and since I only have one transponder, the second key is useless. But that’s exactly what I got. In itself everything works perfectly, only the MKL lights up. What to do? Nice weekend Rolf

  • Omega B – Clutch change -> Central pulley new? Yes or no?

    Hello guys, I have to change the clutch again with the Omega. I now ask myself whether it is enough to change the back bearing (which is included in the clutch kit) or the complete hydraulic central exit. The back bearing is only plugged on. At the Vectra I only changed the bearing at that time. Since the central exit was usually the same as in the Omega (by the way is the same as in the Omega). The outfeed is expensive, costs alone more than the clutch kit of Lu K or Sachs. It’s clear that the needle bearing also has to be new, but what about the mover? I would, if necessary, then pick up the mover from Topran and put the bearing out of the kit on it, since I have not had any bad experiences with the parts of Topran lately. Especially with our city coach I have never had a failure with the parts of Topran… Greetings

  • Omega B – The installation of new wheel bearings at the front.

    This morning I installed new wheel bearings in front. I paid 237,80Euro for the wheel bearings on the left and right. The new wheel bearings are from the same Japanese manufacturer as the ones on it. I already asked how to do it and what tools are needed, I took a few photos as I changed them. For the screw of the wheel bearings I needed a 32 nut and a ratchet. For the complete brake caliper to unscrew an 18 nut. Rems disk to remove 6,7 or 8 Imbus wrench. A hammer and a torque ratchet. The insert is in my opinion easy, and had needed for one side about 1 hour with cigarette breaks 1.Photo with tool

  • Searching for suitable subwoofer

    Moin! In my Toyota Prius III I installed the Carpower Pulsar 10 in a closed housing (15 liters net, from the car hifi dealer), but I am quite dissatisfied. That’s why I’m looking for something else that could fit me. The current subwoofer is a little too quiet and has far too little depth. Potentially problematic: 1.: The subwoofer must fit into the spare wheel chuck. I mean, I have the maximum dimensions 15 times 40 times 50 cm for a quader-shaped housing. Tomorrow, however, I can measure more precisely, if that is important. 2.: The power supply is not exactly rich. I can hardly operate a larger power amplifier than the current one with the weak 12V power supply in the car. I have real 200 watts at 4 ohms for the subwoofer. I leave the budget open for the first time, but the less I have to spend on something suitable, the better. We can build quard-shaped housings ourselves, if the housing is already there, that’s fine. e Subwoofer can you recommend me?

  • Bang & Olufsen sound system in the Mercedes SL (R231): difference audible even for amateurs?

    Hello, there are two sound systems available in the new Mercedes SL as an option for the normal audio system: Harman-Kardon Logic-7 with 14 loudspeakers and 600W for a surcharge of 1,300 euros, or Bang & Olufsen with 12 loudspeakers and 900W for 5,800 euros in addition. The new front bass system has all three variants. Has anyone ever heard of a Bang&Olufsen system, which was adapted to the vehicle and installed ex factory, be it in the new SL or in another vehicle? as lay differences, or do you have to be a hifi pro (for example, I can’t even distinguish MP3 with just 128 kBit/s from CD)? Unfortunately, there’s no real way for Mercedes to hear both systems in comparison, either because they’re not both available at the same time, or because the vehicles are open in the exhibition and you can hardly test them there for 15 minutes at full volume. And with Bang & Olufsen they don’t have x different vehicles around either. Hen 😉 Visually, the B&O definitely does something: LED illuminated tweeters with (but I find this to be “extroverted” from outside the vehicle’s legible B&O label, and all loudspeaker covers are made of aluminum. But the tear is already very heavy – you certainly pay a lot only for the brand?

  • New front system for E46

    Hello all, I have a BMW E46 330ci and there a China-Pumpkin-Android radio in it, that delivers max. 4x50W. The speakers are still standard and therefore quite modest. Now my questions: 1. Are the 4x50W enough for a proper new front system or must absolutely something be hung in between? I don’t want to subwoofer back, is too impractical and large and expensive and expensive, so as I said only a good front system. 2. What can such a front system and the installation about cost (incl. cutting holes in the doors, insulating doors, installation, cable etc.)? Have no idea how much effort this is about… 3. Where should I go with it in the area of Cologne/Neuss? There are ACR Neuss, ACR Köln and “Sound & Service” in Frechen. I don’t want to do this myself because of the door story at the E46, because I have too little idea of… I hope you can help me further, the current speakers get mad at me…

  • Replacement for Clarion DXZ578RUSB Radio

    Hello together I would like to buy a new radio for my Golf 3. Currently a Clarion DXZ578RUSB is installed. But this is now already 12 years old and has now so its stacks. The slider to the further skipping does not work anymore and it sometimes goes on and then straight out again. That repeats then a few times and then it goes. I was not so excited about the operation and the legibility of the display now, so I would like to distance myself from Clarion. e. Also because the Coax loudspeakers of the same brand didn’t really convince me with their durability, even if they are tonally top. Which radio of another manufacturer can you recommend me there? My Clarion has 6 chinch outputs. Two for HT/MT, two for the kick basses and two for the sub. Of course runs everything over the power stage. Also important to me Bluetooth. Does my current radio not have. Another question would be: Is DAB+ worth it? Unfortunately I have no idea about it.