Hello you, I drive a 99-er MX-5, should have been to the tuv in 01.2010 and renewed my brake blocks at the front as well as at the back.With the locks, which were almost down the Mazda braked quite well, now with the new locks brake the just magnificent (the note for the TÜV I think).The braking system was not open, so I can not assume that I have a pressure loss because of air in the braking system.But somehow it does not brake as it should. I’m probably thinking that ABS won’t turn on any more.Did I put my ABS out of the way and weaken my braking system?Does it seem like I’m going to do a full braking on wet roads and only physically block the wheels as they are funny.The fuse from the ABS is I.O.,but somehow I don’t think it works anymore.Can it be? Refreshing brake fluid can’t be the cause of the problem,or And if the brake discs had been understated, they would still be able to complete a full brake, just like with the old brake blocks, wouldn’t they????? Weird.Can I try or control anything without a workshop??? Would I be very happy about help.
Author: 00c12f
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Circuit difficult after longer journey
Hello, a common problem that I also have. After a long drive, my circuit becomes more and more difficult. I notice this especially with the 1st and 2nd gears clearly. I have Bowden train and no hydraulics. If the engine is cold, the circuit is okay. The gears don’t flood, but they go in normally without complaint. But if I was on the highway and the engine has become warm, then the circuit becomes shaky. Oil change in the gearbox didn’t bring anything! My car : Mazda Demio Built 2002 (75hp) with 89,000km of mileage. I have read a few articles, among other things, one should screw the joints on the switchbar, free from the rust and then grease them. I just sprayed a little WD40 and a little bit of grease on it. But if I look at the joint from the pole to the gear, it doesn’t make sense to me what the rusting and greaseing should bring in the place. Can someone explain to me on the basis of the pictures? Or maybe there is another Er clarifies my problem!
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Who has an RX-8???
Would I be interested in who of you bought the RX-8 and how satisfied it is. Also interesting, which equipment or engine variant you have chosen. How high is your consumption? What made you just buy the RX-8?
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Croma 1.9 16V Mulijet with def. AGR valve
After 17,000 kM with the first one, after a further 14,000 kM, the second AGR valve was changed. At times, the Croma no longer took any gas, if you were lucky, it started with a little delay. In addition, there was a significant loss of power in the lower speed range. This problem is not unknown to the workshops and thus a new AGR valve was ordered directly. However, these are in a backlog with Fiat and you have to use a Until then, my workshop has closed the AGR valve with a sealing disc. The Croma runs as usual again, only the engine control complains now. I will also have the charging pressure sensor cleaned and talk to the workshop again about the retrofitting of the “hole plates”, which are probably offered by Fiat and should limit the exhaust gas return quantity. However, my master said, the AGR valves would have been revised and the new versions would no longer need these plates. So the arduous topic of the AGR valves with the diesels does not end. Let’s see if there really is a revised version and if it is better. Greeting Balu
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Oldtimer rust removal and preparation for painting.
I have a 36 year old RX 7, so slowly some places start to rust. Although I’m not the most skilled craftsman, but I have to do it myself for cost reasons. Machines I don’t have, except an Accu screwdriver. I would be really grateful for tips and advice as I best go forward. Also call products. What is the best rust converter ? How to grind ? Which paper ? Which primer ? The paint outside is still good , just behind the wheels and inside at the Unfortunately, doors start rusting. Thank you for your help. The car is from my father and I would like to make it original for me again.
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Holes in wheel running TÜV relevant
Hello dear forum! Unfortunately I have a big problem: the bike runs on my pickup are already completely rusted. Is this Tüv-relevant? The TÜV examiner said at a quick glance that I did not pass the test. At the last HU no defects were detected. Last HU March 2021. I bought the car one month after and I believe that an examiner was bribed… Please give your opinion! I drove to the dealer today to ask him what he would pay me for the vehicle and he told me that I should not drive at all. I now have pictures of the bike runs, and from the outside. Ask your opinions! Greetings and thank you for your time
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Is there anyone on the team washing street here or everything hand washer?
Feels everyone recommends only hand wash
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Volvo delivers templates for fun car experiments 😉 Do you know more about it?
Hi together, what there are for (hopefully) involuntary and/or curious experiments with cars, we already have. Volvo itself informs me today post that they also do such experiments, they even find them so great, that they are distributed by letter (not even by e-mail!!) (for Volvo) to all Volvo customers [whether I should send the photos of my experiments?]. At XC-Fan such experiments are always well kept 😉 Well, what should I do? of course, you are now expecting my question about the procurement of this disc attachment. But I’m not going to make you happy now 😉 Should one of you come and assume that I’m doing wrong with my XC – then I’ll show you the Volvo picture collection here 😉 There were still more such tests of Volvo (not now the many, countless “normal” crash tests)? I remember the ancient experiment with the seat belt on which some cars hung. D Ann was still the tower from Volvos to show the roof stability. Did I forget something? Experimental greetings Torsten – the XC fan (and can do this with a nano-lacquer-sealed disc at all 😉