MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Honda Mb5 with 70ccm carburetor how to adjust?

    Hi, we built a 70 cylinder on a Honda Mb5, because the 50ccm was not enough. So far we have only made the engine run 2 times short. Since it was running too fat at first, we moved the main nozzle needle from the lowest notch to the middle, but that did not bring any improvement. Ignition sparks is there, also otherwise everything is in order. How do you have to adjust the carburetor, so that the engine runs reliably? It is about the originals. The purpose of the conversion should not be to be able to saw all the others now or to get the maximum speed and acceleration out of it, but rather to be able to keep up with it, because before that there was no more than 45 km/h in it and uphill the first gear was called. Can someone help us further? mfg Michael

  • DT 80 LC1 starts, runs very bad

    Hello! I have a DT 80 LC1 Bj 1984 (type 37A), which has been brought to life from a 14 years long deep sleep in the barn…. Runs but not reasonable. Jumps on (first push on), then it goes with the kickstarter, runs stable in idle but takes the gas only very sluggishly.. worse than a diesel! , and with full gas (only 4000 – 5000upm is closed..) or goes out directly afterwards! I have cleaned the first verlasser ultrasonic.. problem has not been fixed.. then the floatlightly changed.. was also not better.. then at ebay a new verlasser bought and various nozzle positions sprobbed out and has still not become better. Engine is new (new cylinder, piston, rings and is dense). I have done mixed with about 1:30, since thought new motor.. etc.. by the way, the smoke development is somewhat unusually strong…. yet too much oil in the petrol? Would be very grateful for every advice, I don’t know any more.

  • Stuttering at high turns!?

    Hi, have ne Kawa Eli 125 So after my valve crack and the subsequent reconstruction I have already driven a few kilometers and of course also drove in. now that I have cracked the 1000 km since approx. 280 km I give again correctly chain, but if I completely spin the gashahn (gashhan ka) she runs well through, but has always small jerkers so from the engine Iss bad to describe, when I say stutter you come with me running too fat, however, that I think less. Can it deal with that you get too little sprite? That at some point you don’t get enough sprite and then have a small dropout? and knows someone where I can buy a jet set or something for a mikuni carburettor and that is also favorable=??? Oh yes, that with the stutter I had already before the piston eater, and : if I give gass I come to my topspeed without stuttering!

  • W123 CE230 Cold start problem

    Hello, I’ve been driving a W123 CE 230 for 7 months and I’m very happy with the car. I only have one problem: If the engine is cold and I want to start it, it starts hard. After it starts, there are slight vibrations in the engine, but they disappear as soon as the engine is warm. Sometimes I have to try to start 3–4 times until the engine starts.(Twilights are new) In my environment, I was told that it could be a cold start valve, and that the metal pin should go back to it in cold weather, which might not work any more. I would like to check this, but I don’t know where this valve is. Can anyone help me? Thank you!

  • VR6 does not start again

    Hello. Have the following problem: my VR has let me down again and again lately. Sometimes he just doesn’t want to jump on. Then, after a few waiting times (min. 1 hour) he starts without problems and drives without twitching or jerking. Besides, he sometimes goes off when coupling in and then jumps again after at least an hour. I renewed the ignition coil (Beru) in March, as well as the crankshaft sensor. I am at the moment rather perplexed. I already had the same problem some time ago, but it then vanished into air like a ghost’s hand ….

  • Super fuelled instead of diesel

    Hi @ll !! Now it has happened. I have today about 35 ltr. Super (about 10 ltr. Diesel were still inside) in my Golf4 1.9 TDI model year 2002 fuelled! I did not notice it and I started driving. After 200 mtr. the car went out. I tried to start the engine again briefly. He then did not go directly to. I then found out that I have Super fuelled. I then towed the car to the next VW dealer. Since he is only there again on Monday I still do not know what has to be done and if now really something has broken. That the tank has to be emptied and the filter has to be cleaned is clear to me, but what still comes to me?? Have read through some older posts, but were already quite old. So now my question. Greeting Oleck

  • PD Oil Release

    Hello! search in the forum for half an hour for the following information: Lt. VW manual needs the Gulf of my mother 1,9 TDI PD 74KW a 50501 or a 50500 with 50000. Had previously always an OMV oil syn com Diesel 10W40 that had the 50501 release. Now there is only Bixxol. Have ordered the “subsequent oil” there is only 50200 and 50500 on it. Is there the standard 50200 the successor standard of 50000? From Bixxol there is already an oil with 50100, but that costs twice that than there syn com. With the oil releases from the VW you can no longer look through any more. If the topic has been dealt with in the forum, then sorry, I did not find. Beautiful WE, da Klausl

  • How long-lasting is the 1.4 TSI (122hp) ?

    Just wanted to speak to me briefly, because the new 1.4TSI (without compressor) will probably become the new volume engine for the Gulf. However, the problems of the 1.4 l 55KW 16V engine, which was noticeable with high oil consumption and increased number of early engine failures, were known. What can one expect from the new TSI – which will once again be a continuous runner – with low oil consumption and for running speeds of 300tKm well ? Finally, the old 1.4 l block certainly forms the basis for the new TSI – and that also comes with turbo charge – can this work well ?

  • After annual service even more beeps..

    Yesterday my V60T6 (MJ 12) went to the first annual service. A so-called “service update” is played up. What this does exactly and which functions are affected did not know, because Volvo allegedly does not pass this information on. But immediately I noticed that a three-time beep starts already at the engine start, if you are not yet strapped. The same beep starts when you are already strapping off before the engine stop.. I find that now exaggerated! Before the update was ok for me: Warning for uninstalled belts only after the start at a speed of about 10km/h. According to this it is not possible to undo this additional beeping….

  • Problems Memory Seat

    For example, the VW dealer doesn’t get it well and he has to disassemble the seats in order to make a precise diagnosis, which would involve a lot of costs. Now I would like to buy 2 control units and then “hope” that it works again. In the following time the data from the VW dealer for the control units:Control unit driving seat 3D0 959 760 CA Z0M , driver seat 3D0 959 759 CA Z0F On the internet I find these only exactly the opposite, so passenger seat with ending 59 and driver seat with ending 60. I have already written a mail to VW if they have possibly lost themselves in your mail. Sometimes wait. But now I find the part number: 3D0959760B & 3D095959B on the Internet the whole of the number on the left can I also build it up? My control units may have the lettering CA and the parts are rare and also more expensive, which with the lettering B are more often present and cheaper. I guess that’s what I can only help me to build the right?