Moin together, I unfortunately have to separate myself from my beloved MINI for reasons of space. The car is a rare special model including full equipment. In addition, there is a service package (up to 11/23 or 71tkm) and original MINI winter bikes. With this equipment there is currently no second MINI at mobile.de. In addition, there is low mileage and the above mentioned extras (service, wheels). Although the car has been parked 22 times, so far no (serious) The car is now available at an increased price (according to mobile.de) of €20,500 VB. However, it is also a super-kept special model (Seven Chili) including service package, winter bikes (MINI/Alu) and an absolute top equipment: full leather, head-up, HK system, Adaptive chassis, parking and driving assist etc. What are your experiences? How long does it take to sell the car? And what can it be (except now again the single price theme) that people don’t call. After all, the price is VB, meaning: you can be happy to deal with me, but it doesn’t even try. I pack the ad here with you and am happy about your suggestions and thoughts. LG, Nicohttps://suche.mobile.de/fahrzeug/details.html?id=322666345
Author: 00c12f
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Tyre wear
I’m just wondering when a motorcycle tyre has more wear and tear due to slippage. -When driving on the highway with Vmax – or when speeding through the gears My thought: When accelerating, the wheel torque is higher in gears below the 6th. But the number of revolutions is lower. On the other hand, the ground contact of the tyre is always the same. So is it more relevant to the transferred power or the transferred torque – or is that the same thing?
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Parktronic at the C 70
Hello guys, drive a C 70 T 5 now and it has the parking sensors on the back as standard from the equipment Momentum. You can switch them off. According to the instructions for use there should be a switch next to the handbrake, with which you can switch off the parking sensors. But this switch is missing. Maybe someone can tell me if there is another possibility or if someone has the ominous button to deactivate. Thank you already in advance.
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Switching for additional headlamps via existing front fog lights cabling…
Hello guys, I just signed up here because I just started the project, that I want to mount additional headlights on my Forester Sf BJ 99. I want to have a switch in the interior where I can turn off the additional light permanently or if this switch is on ON, the additional headlights should only light up when the long-distance headlights are switched on… I actually thought that I could get this Bastlerei, but now I am in front of a Puzzles that I cannot understand…. I would like to use the cabling of the optional fog lights in order not to have to put a new line. I also found the corresponding connection on the left side of the steering wheel behind the dashboard. The cabling coming from the battery forks in the schematic and goes into the engine compartment into the relay box and also to the dashboard (this is thus the switch lights up when the light is switched on, but would be in m from the relay box in the engine compartment the line comes back to the dashboard and waits there to be connected with the switch to the mass … Now I thought I understood everything correctly and tested it before connecting again with the voltmeter, my results: Test from plus pole in the relay box on mass –> 12 volts …check, Well that was not understandable to me: I now close the two contacts on the dashboard via the voltmeter together I have a voltage of about 0.5 – 0.6 volts if I have switched on to II with the headlight light, if I switch down to I even 4.6 volts and at 0 I have no current flow…. Now where do these voltages come from when the two contacts are not connected at all in the relay box, or it has to come from somewhere else, because otherwise 12 volt should be measured with the contacts on the dashboard…???? Unfortunately, it doesn’t look good for this, or there is a small crack in this cable mix somewhere where there are miscurrent flows…Wouldn’t be good for the whole electrical system in this case, wouldn’t it? Thanks for your help I’m already curious what comes to mind In the appendix you’ll find the schematics
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Switching light mesh.
Servus together have a general question because of changing an alternator. And I have to change my Lima also the pole wheel or is it not important I could imagine it is like I think but have found nothing on the internet thanks already in advance mgf Sippelxx
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Pay for air check at the tank
Had read in a big German daily newspaper (which with the B..) that at some gas stations 1€ should be collected for air testing. Would one of you pay the €? I take this pump, unfortunately no official release of official organs has. Nevertheless, I check, fill my cars, wheelbarrows, bicycles, with foot muscle power, with it. I also have compressor in my hall, but for the FZ enough, comes in a little more lt display. th
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ask for brake discs+covers change to 2008 Road King
A hello to the screwdriver round, I can certainly help one or the other with his knowledge. On a 2008 Road King, after not even 20000km, the brake discs are drawn in front.The RK is a European model and equipped with original brakes. Are there better accessories discs than the originals Which brake pads from which company use, which make a good impression. How much Nm are tightened the brake disc screws. ahead. Thank you very much Klaus
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ZX7R does not start after spark plug change
Hello dear people, I did not find any mail exactly to my problem. I wanted to get my ZX7R Bj. `96 out of hibernation last week, unfortunately it did not jump on. Instead, it is still drunk to me. Since I, a friend of mine, changed the spark plugs only 2-3 weeks ago, I would exclude these times. I let the carburettor run empty in the last fall, therefore I can not imagine that it is clogged. The spark plugs have I changed, since I had always had problems with that last year, when it came cold out of the garage, half an hour in the sun and it went on wonderfully. The spark plugs also looked really bad. Now to the battery, not the best anymore, although only a year old, but since it shrugged this morning briefly I would say, it might not be the battery either. I also had to warm them up with the (not laugh please) hair dryer so that they came. During the se I didn’t know where it came from. In another post I read that you should let the swimming chamber run empty. Where do I find the screw exactly? Bzw. is that possible without building the motorcycle apart? I hope someone can help me, since I don’t even come to the workshop……always thank you in advance. Greeting Sebastian P.s. It’s embarrassing to me, but I can’t help myself. someone has to say how the gas tap has to stand to stand on? Since it smelled like gasoline last week I would say he’s open, but maybe he’s on reserve
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Repair: TÜV + carburetor
Hello everybody, I want to sell my Ninja, she only stands around and that doesn’t make her any better. Since I barely drove last year and I didn’t let the carburetor run empty at the end of the season, she doesn’t start anymore. So I start from the carburetor. Now I also need new tires and TÜV. At the next two-wheeler workshop you have estimated for everything together up to 800 euros. Do you keep this for realistic or overpriced? Here is a list: Collection – 30 Euro Verga serreinigung – 300 Euro New tyres – 350 Euro TÜV – 80 Euro This was only a prior assessment of the workshop without having seen the machine. I am irritated by the high price for carburettor cleaning. Had expected something with 100 Euro. Are 300 Euro too much or in the frame? My motorcycle: Kawasaki Ninja ZX7r Year of construction: 2000 Kilometer: 25300 Original condition Greetings John
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ZX9R Thermal problems
Hello, I promised a friend once here to ask what is with his machine. Were 14 days ago in South Tyrol to enjoy curves and passes. Then on the 2nd day up the Gaviapass at warm 25-30° air temperature, when it suddenly popped loudly at the ZX9R during the ride and a steam cloud ascended – cooler hose burst…. End of the beautiful day tour. Machine stopped and the next day replaced. From then on forced breaks were inserted, because again and again vo The actual question, can it be that the cooler cover is defective, it should actually open at overpressure or is it probably that the cooler hose was already porous? Or did Kawa install a system error here, the machine was built for the race track, less for alpine tours with relatively high load at low speeds with little wind (cooling)?? In my opinion, this should not happen anyway.