MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • how do you find this offer???

    servus, since I might give my omega 3000 24v (if someone has an interest) and find something new for me, I have come to this offerhttp://autoscout24.de/…/detail.asp?…I will look at the car on Saturday…only since I have no idea of alfa I would like to ask involved drivers for advice and hope to find some here. what should I pay particular attention to this model? already thanks in advance gruss Tunc

  • Alfa 3l V6 Turbo…

    Since Opel (with the new Vectra) and Saab just with relatively large volumes (2,8l) V6 turbo engines draw attention to itself and the engines exactly meet my taste, but not the car brands, the question arises for me about an alternative in the Alfa range (GTV, 156)… It should definitely be a six-cylinder with turbo charge (no compressor), but the 2l engine in the GTV/164/166 is too small for me (even against the 2l four-cylinders of Opel and VW/Audi d The alternative to retrofitting a 3l GTV or the 156er 2.5 V6 with turbocharger(s) has not been available for some time due to stricter exhaust gas regulations (-> Novitec). Generally, cars (any brand) with V6 turbomotors are quite rare to get; the more I was surprised by the new developments in the house Opel/Saab very positively. The sharpest thing I have ever driven (probe) was a Maserati Quattroporte Evo. with 3.2l V8 biturbo and well over 400 P S; in terms of acceleration and elasticity/transmittance is simply fabulous! A compressor comes due to its unspectacular characteristics (nothing can be done about the classic “turbo booms” 😉 just as little in question as a vacuum conversion to a displacement-larger engine (bsw. 3,5l from Brohl or Schulze). Therefore, there are only two affordable and realistic possibilities (at the moment): a) Turbo conversion of a 3l 12V (spider) – offers e.g. the company AW-Delta at b) displacement-enlargement (drilling) e ines GTV 2l V6 TB on 3.0l… What would you favor under the aforementioned conditions (Alfa, V6 Turbo > 2l)? Greeting kpw

  • Swift Sport Hybrid stutters

    Moin love community, I’m slowly at a loss and hope that I might find a solution in this way. My Swift Sport Hybrid stutters unfortunately. It feels like you’re driving on an uneven track. If I ride cruise 40kmh in third gear at about 1700rpm for a while, the effect of stuttering increases and a jerking occurs. Candles just came new as well as the coils. Unfortunately, this has no influence on it. As soon as you give load on the engine it runs perfectly, z It’s got a lot of condensation which comes out of the exhaust. Only 98 octan is refueled up as it was optimized. It was already jerking before the optimization! (I thought maybe it will be more comfortable with a better software). The car now has 53.000km down. It’s the best way to get rid of it. It’s the best way to get rid of it. It’s the best way to get rid of it. d always reasonably warm and cold driven. Maybe someone has a solution or idea? Unfortunately the error memory is empty. Thanks already in advance !

  • Jimny won’t start.

    Moin people. I’m back with a new problem. My Jimny FJ 1.5 Diesel doesn’t start any more. He always has the problem that when I was already driving he doesn’t start the first attempt. Mostly only on the second attempt, but sometimes it also needs three. Then suddenly he didn’t want to be in cold condition. I noticed that the lamp of the pre-glow system doesn’t even light up. But at some point then already and then he ran. So on the speedometer left from bottom to top the oil pressure lamp, a red engine control, a yellow engine control and above the pre-glow spiral. I noticed that only the oil pressure lamp is shining and the other three are not. Nevertheless, started, but does not start. Had this four, five times until now. If I make the ignition on and off several times, all the lamps are shining and it starts. Now after easy 20 attempts the two motor lamps and the pre-glow spiral still glow nic can anyone tell me what’s wrong with it? I’ve already tried the spare key. Does he have an immobilizer? Greetings Welf

  • Suzuki sx4

    love suzuki community! have to all “suzi” experienced the following question or problem: I own a house on the sea in Greece, which can only be reached via a dirt road. the dirt road is located directly next to the sea. there are actually no “rises”, the problem is that when it rains in winter it quickly turns into muddy bottom – actually only at a few places, the rest dries up relatively quickly – probably the bottom so procure. m one question for you is this: I think about the creation of a sx4. because I do not need a pure-bred terrain car for my purposes. on the other hand, it is THE criterion that I can reach my house at any time of the year – as well as if it has become rather muddy by rain. so: someone has experience- practical nature- with the vehicle and can someone be so good for me to give me immensely valuable infos, whether THAT is a car for my purposes, or I rather after another off-road vehicle should look around. if it works, a photo of this way should also be taken. about like this is the worst passage of this way, the rest is far better, but it can be even worse at this point – sometimes when it has rained heavily. many thanks for your infos alki.

  • Great for Swift?!?

    Have such a stupid question: Now that the price advantage between super lead-free and petrol lead-free has dropped to just one cent, I seriously think about refueling Super with my Swift 1.0l (built in 93) in the future.Can I promise myself more performance?If so how much?And is it not that consumption could also fall a bit? Thank you in advance for your answers!!!

  • Greetings from Arvidsjaur

    Hej, here a little life sign from Arvidsjaur. As written in the thread “Sylvester am Polarkreis”, we are on 27.12., to arrive yesterday, after well 2000km in Arvidsjaur. Everything completely without problems. Reserve canister is not necessary, consumption!!!! Attention!!!! 4,8 liters/100km. It has something galactic, to refuel, you get 1560km left path indicated… roads top passable, temperature around the freezing point. In Östersund we had -20……. Mood, great, let’s see what’s still coming. Oh yes yes, well, we had a good time. , even for those not in love with dynamics a trouble-free ride….

  • where do I get proof of manufacturer data (sprite consumption)?

    Hello, Where can I find actual manufacturer information about fuel consumption via my Daewoo Evanda 2.0 CDX ? My lawyer, who has been representing us for more than a year, tries everything so that we can withdraw from the purchase contract. However, he says, “Internet information does not help us to prove fuel consumption. We need proof from the manufacturer” First reason: Dealer stated that the gas consumption is 7-8 l; we have found a much higher consumption (15-17 l). FZ did not come due to many defects by the TÜV (which is why a judge of the court could not determine the gas consumption). However, he had the vehicle picked up anyway, in order to find out afterwards that it has enormous damage due to 1-years of service life, so that he could not determine the gas consumption…… – think he will be able to calculate his catalog-like report expensively… – only, everything is fixed on “VERSCHLEEß”…) second reason: today have e doubtless found that a reimport was subjugated to us. Please crawl into your documents, you can find something about the actual manufacturer data of Daewoo.

  • Inspections – for what?

    Hello together, have a vehicle which is about 2.5 years old and about 90,000km. According to the checkbook an inspection was due now (I do every 15,000km). So I commissioned the car workshop and inspection was carried out, summer tires were selected and installed. I picked up the car and found that when driving on the highway during braking operations, when the speed was between 100-140 km/h, the steering wheel was strongly vibrating. After 7 days I went back to the workshop to check the cooling system again and asked what could be the cause of the vibrations on the steering wheel? I was told that the car had to be examined for the cooling system and I would pick it up again after one day, and that the vibrations on the steering wheel would naturally be examined. When I picked up my vehicle today, I was sent to the workshop. the two brake discs were so thin at the front that I had overheated them during a braking process and since I was certainly driving over a water puddle at the same time, the water cooled down the thin brake discs too quickly and they deformed! In addition to the discs, of course, the brake covers had also been changed. Now my question: when I had the inspection done, and in the protocol with “front brake blocks/discs on wear / freegage “tested” – why didn’t you see the super-thin (i.e. already worn) and deformed brake discs? Another thing: I was called during the inspection about 45,000km, and they told me that the brake discs already have grooves, because the brake pads are completely worn out, and everything has to be re-examined – so I ask myself here, what is an inspection? What did I do this for the 30,000km? Why didn’t they tell me that in the 30,000 d he brake pads are worn out? Or do I hide myself and the brake pads were still OK up to 44,000km and I just had bad luck? What do I do the inspections for if they never tell me that the receipts are off and I have to renew them, because otherwise the discs are gone? Greetings, Jack

  • Mitsubishi Galant Avance V PROLL

    So since I’m new in the forum I want to introduce you to my galant, am myself only 19 *GRINS* Have pretty much everything UMGEBAUT what there was, interior equipment is also no more to top naja ne PS3 would give me n och FEHLEN *GRINS* Here is the outside look, find SERIOUS looking out… ASO all the windows INCLUSIVE of FRONT are tinted, because he has a SPECIAL APPROACH, was a PREPARATION MODEL HIHI