Author: 00c12f

  • Change battery

    Hello forum friends, I live in Sweden and ask for a friend. He owns a 2005 Corvette C6 Bj 2005 Since the summer he wanted to start the car in the winter camp, however the battery was so unloaded that he could not even open the doors. After the unlocking through the trunk he came into the car, but the starter did not make a Muxx. When the battery was removed both crimphülses from the battery cables. That means: It was probably already puffed around before, since also the H The real problem now is that he doesn’t know which is the minus – and which is the plus cable, because both are the same thickness red cables. I know it so that the plus cable is red and the minus cable is black. Maybe it is handled differently with the Ami ́s. In one of these cables a quite strong fuse is installed. Can anyone tell me if this is an original fuse and whether it is used in the minus or plus cable? Thanks i m ahead for meaningful answers Greeting Uwe

  • 68 Charger offer all right?

    What do you think about this offer? Pictures are available at Mobile.. If I have asked the stupidest question of the week, that’s fine for me. I don’t think it’s stupid to ask them. You notice that I have little good experience with Auto Forums. What do you think about the Fender Day and the VIN? What is your opinion about the dealer? Auto:https://link.mobile.de/Wx2u6DM4UmHCKHQw6 Reviews Dealer:https://www.mobile.de/Reviews/CMIInternational#1 Dealer Page of Mobile:htt ps://home.mobile.de/CMIINTERNATIONAL#ses

  • Buying a US Pick-Up

    H allo all together, I want to get a bigger pick up in the near future. I only have a lot of questions to ask, as I don’t have much experience in this area. Look at me quite a lot about which vehicles I like. This includes the Dodge RAM and the F-series from Ford. It will be a used vehicle and will have run up to 150,000km. The size of the engine will definitely be a V8. Year of construction will be between 2008 and 2 013 move. Now to my questions: Are there years of construction/model series that you would exclude due to too many problems ? (Evtl. Also problems that are not visible during a purchase?) Are there possible recommendations, which series are technically best ? How does it look with the engines with the V8 with gas systems ? Are there frequent problems that occur ? About general experiences of you I also look forward to independent of the questions. Thank you in advance and dear greetings .

  • Engine noise at the 394 Oldsmobile

    Hello must ask again here in the forum. I have a 1960 Oldsmobile Super 88 with a 394 cui. engine. The problem is. When I start it the engine makes a knocking “hard” metallic noise. And then still this ticking noise. So I notice that so. I once made a short video. Maybe someone had such a problem before? I know remote diagnostics are always bad to assess. But maybe someone has an idea. Happy Friday still.

  • Problems with VW Used Car Guarantee

    Hello, it doesn’t really belong here but… I bought a used Golf IV 4 years ago with VW used car warranty and it always extended by one year in June. Last year, so June 2010, I filled out the application as usual and brought it to the car dealership. The responsible employee told me that everything was done for me. About 4 weeks later, I didn’t get a policy and no money was debited. I called there, and they told me that VW zz. is not going to follow. After 2 months the same game again, this time with the reason that you can’t explain it either. The same after the 3rd and 4th call… At some point I left it with the calls and trusted that the insurance was extended. So now it came as it had to come. I was in the workshop today and had to have a few repetitions for the TÜV, so about 800 euros. All material and work The nice employee told me that he can still remember the 4 conversations in total but could not tell me anything more about the extension of my insurance today. He would then contact me again tomorrow. What do you think about it, do I change that the insurance company will take over the repairs? Greetings

  • Estimate too high

    I’d like to have a problem. Here’s what I’ve done backwards with an AHK to touch another car. Number plate depleted, grilled a strut pressed and minimal paint off the bumper. Everything no problem and I’ll pay too. I’m also aware that the painting costs a bit and I’m also willing to pay a complete painting. Problem: Have a quote now. There’s the bumper also on it. And it has nothing. Besides the missing paint. yes I can judge. I can run the whole thing over the insurance course (and buy back) and try to reject the unfounded claims. I also had the damage reported precautionaryly. However, the required amount is not really high – a total of 700 € incl. VAT. (only around the bumper me too high) and I think the insurance will go the way of least resistance and pay. What do you do?

  • Full fictitious settlement of economic total damage

    Hello everyone, I came across this forum via Google and have the hope that I will find help here. The following situation: I had a self-indebted (no intentional or gross negligence) car accident with my Audi A4. Now the question of insurance arises. An expert of the insurance was already there and looked at the car. He called me today and told me the following: Repair costs approx. 3.700 € Repurchase value: approx. 3.400 € => wirtsch A residual value of the vehicle is not (yet) known to me, since everything was only done by telephone. Now I get probably only the difference amount replacement value minus residual value. Right so far? So with a fictitious residual value of 2,000 € I get “only” 1.400 €. My problem: I want to drive my dear car absolutely further, because the damages are also only purely optical. I have searched the Internet and read that the insurance at 6-months This means that after 6 months at the latest I would have to be transferred another 2,000 €. Is this true or did I confuse several things??? As an insurance layman it is quite difficult to keep track of the situation. So simply asked: If I want to continue driving my car unrepaired (because it is not necessary for road safety) (at least 6 months), I go like before to get the greatest possible amount of insurance? Many thanks for the answers.

  • Help! Distangled insurance history

    Servus, since I am now the lucky owner of a new used car (BMW), I have of course changed the insurance. I want to take over the insurance SFK of the old (Mondeo) because I want to sell the car. Now on Friday I approved the BMW with the new insurer, the Mondeo should remain approved until the sale for test drive, according to my new insurer up to 3 weeks no problem. Since the TÜV is due for the Mondeo, I am on Saturday then to the KÜS The windscreen is defective, several small stone blows. The examiner does not give me a badge, should first let the disc be fixed. Now my question: Can I still calculate the disk repair on the old insurance (which is not yet terminated or dissolved) or do I have to bite into the sour apple and pay myself? Side question (interest me only): Can I then cancel an insurance after repair? (doesn’t come into question for me there I want to sell the car) Thank you very much

  • Opposite wants to see sold car

    Hello, I had a non-inflicted accident. The expert had estimated the remaining value at 6000 €, but I got rid of the car for 6400 €. Now the opposing insurance wants to see the vehicle, I told them that I sold the vehicle, but since the vehicle letter is still with the bank, the disintegration of the opinion that the purchase contract is not valid, but I have a contract in writing with the buyer, where the letter is submitted My question: can the insurance simply say that the contract of sale has not come to an end and do they have the right to examine the goods, although an expert has already done so? Thank you very much already.

  • Smaller engine = ever more economical?

    Dear friends, Is the theory that a smaller engine is more economical in all areas of work than a larger one? I know that different cars/engines have been built for different purposes. A smaller 1.0L Hyundai i10 will definitely consume less in the city center than a large BMW 5 Series 3L machine, which swallows even more in idle to keep itself alive. Again, the 5 Series 3L is made for the long distance. Here it rotates at 160km/h. ch cozy 2500 rpm, while the little Hyundai 1.0L screams his soul out of his body and asks for salvation. But here I think more of the comfort idea in the foreground. A large long 3L limousine is designed for quiet, comfortable long distance even at good speed. But whether the 3L engine in this territory is also more economical?! Example to compare apples with apples: A 1.0L engine (no matter the brand) at 50km/h A 3.0L engine (no matter the brand) at 50km/h Here I guess That the smaller engine is definitely more economical. In particular, I imagine Stop and Gos as worlds of difference. But now to the exciting: A 1.0L engine (no matter the brand) at cruising speed 120km/h A 3.0L engine (no matter the brand) at cruising speed 120km/h Are there tables from when it would be more economical to switch to a larger machine? Or will the little ones, even if they are so tormented, be ever more economical?