Author: 00c12f

  • Offroaders for cold regions?

    Hello together, I’m looking for an offroader who “sustains” very cold temperatures. With hot temperatures I have experiences, only with the opposite not. The field of application is ~ -35 to -45 °C, so that a diesel is already out of the near selection. Land is light to medium, also not excessive charge. Maybe someone already has experience in this direction? I am unfortunately there at the moment a bit planless and perplexed…. Thanks already supplement: budget h we plan ~ 35 – 40k Euro – so there will certainly be nothing new, but rather something used.

  • Cruise control defective – Range Rover Evoque

    The cruise control of my Range Rover Evoque works up to 95 km/h, but not at higher speeds. A mechanic tried to fix the error. He found out that his measuring instrument shows a different speed on each wheel. He asserts that this is not on the measuring instrument. Here is some information: Before the error occurred on the cruiser, the ball bearings on the rear wheels were replaced. If the juggling bearings can be a source of error: How can If the ball bearings have nothing to do with the cruise control, what can be the source of the error? Thank you in advance for all the answers

  • New test procedure at AMuS…

    …for E-Mobile and the Earth is finally turning around the sun again (after the Model S flattened the Panamera a few months ago): – dramatic range loss of the Model S on motorway ride (if one can speak of it at all at a constant 120 there) – from 342 to 184 km. Of course, the E-Golf loses only 38% range – with warm drive the acceleration power drops from 4.7 to 6.5 seconds to speed 100, which makes the vehicle difficult in overtaking operations (vulgo: dangerous). Kaju and consorts probably have no idea at all and the German manufacturers probably did everything right again (unfortunately the new test procedure was not finished when comparing with the Panamera yet. But maybe there is a rematch). Too bad that I still don’t want to have an i3 or an e-golf… ;-((I don’t know. ;-))

  • Charging cycle in the first minutes

    After all I’ve read about charging e-vehicles with large lithium batteries on high-speed columns, the absorption of electrical energy seems to slow down considerably over time. I imagine this: A Tesla with an empty battery is 80 percent full again after half an hour of charging on the SC. To get it completely full, i.e. the last 20 percent, it takes two hours. So far, so good. My question is: Is this “deceleration effect” over the entire charging time k I imagine that I could drive 350 km with a full Tesla battery. But after half an hour I already have 80 per cent, that is 280 km. How much do I have after five minutes? A sixth of 80 per cent, that is 47 km? Or much more, because the charging current is very high at the beginning? How are your experiences with very short charging stops? And does this harm the batteries if you make many short charging cycles instead of long charging cycles?

  • WiWo comment on Tesla in general

    Some of my feelings are too exaggerated – but there are certainly a few truths in it.http://www.wiwo.de/…/10062808.html However, the niche is still far too small to be a serious threat – a lot of things would have to happen.

  • What kind of volvo are you driving?

    the olli sees need for a new vehicle registration in mt-volvo and I am completely agreed. I think: “just get the last thread up again”… with “times just” I end in autumn 2002, with a question of ransom… so that can’t remain. so here is an extensive version with starting point in the price lists of vcc deutschland* and a limited selection of past models. the option “other” (instead of “my name is emkay/bildechef”…) and “no more than a car registration in mt-volvo. uto” for the (necessary?) convinced cyclists who read and write along at motor-talk. while scrolling over the threads of the main forum I stepped on a huge amount of interesting threads, is almost a ruehrig around’s heart, what we have discussed here in the last three years… at the left to ask a few questions, which have relevance for neukæufer and already entered volvo-owners and which I just think still interesting: – first of all: why did he r bought the volvo? – “volvos most successful model” => did you also buy it? – hændler satisfaction => was only recently a topic. please don’t name any names… – car occupancy => especially interesting for xc90 drivers with seven seats – vehicle duration => newly bought, sold? or first for anti-rust sealing? – accuracy when refueling => demand a mountain data from the new elch or is the consumption only monitored with an eye? – mileage => w he is used the (new?) volvo? – “the nicest volvo of all time?” => many volvos you can no longer buy. are there models that you find more attractive or schøner? – buy a volvo again? => for those who already drive a volvo and buy a new volvo, or have just bought and maybe already owned a volvo. well then fleissiges posten. lieb gruss statistischer oli [/fanfaren]

  • Alfa 156 – Madness or nobility?

    After being a quiet reader in this forum for a long time and reading a lot of good tips, I decided to post something. In general, I am very satisfied with my Alfa 156, never had any problems and agree with almost all the positive opinions. There is no other car that looks so beautiful, that makes so much fun (Selespeed) and is so reliable! However, I now have the 80,000 inspection and the following prices were run by an Alfa workshop. t: Inspection approx. EUR 350 timing belts approx. EUR 750-800 brakes approx. 400-450 If you still get the question whether the exhaust is still in order, you therefore start from the maximum prices (EUR 1600). I realize that things have to be done, but at the price I get to ponder… Do you really have to pay so much to keep your car in fire? And do you have to do this at an Alfa workshop? Madness or nobility? About tips and your views w I would be very grateful!

  • Forester Diesel- today we also tore the clutch!

    Hello, I was always so enthusiastic about our Forri, but it came to it, and see it is true. Today after good driving in on the highway, I pulled a trailer for the first time with the car. Single-axle tipper suspension 800 KG charge unfair weight of the team about 1250 KG. I strangled the car only 5 times completely. Then I cheered the engine up to 2000 turns, then let the clutch come slowly. Immediately the interior with rotten stench from the clutch was I thought I was falling away from believing. And I always thought it was a fairy tale. I continued my drive to the building rubble dump, I went up 4 to 6 % uphill, let the car run up the mountain in 3 gears at 2000 revolutions. After a KM the stench was so strong that I had to open the windows. I then stopped in a parking lot and wanted to look at the whole, because the car also did not pull properly. The lamp of the differential oil was already on . And he squirted like a campfire. It was not to be thought of further, since I still had to climb the flat mountain. So first half hour pause made. Cooled off. Then again tried again 2 times strangled, it is not possible to get this car with load rear dran to drive under 2000 revolutions and long grinding clutch. Can’t believe !!!!!! I arrived at the landfill, normal muddy ground on the spot, again up the hill, like r out of the cart. Then I set up 3200 turns and let the clutch fly. Impossible !!!! The landfill keeper thought I had taken Drgen. Then it went around to push the trailer backwards to the rubble, so that I could load with my hydraulic tipper there nicely close to the edge. Here nothing, absolutely nothing. Start-coupling – out, always so on. Not with 2 not with 3000 turns. So I drove round again, the cart on the dump again 2 times strangled. And then then again. I couldn’t drive a car, let my neck and anger mirror rise. The smell of the clutch is degenerate, the landfill keeper shook his head, such a beautiful car, which hammered together in Japan. I then drove home with stinking clutch, which is in the bucket no question, you can give up the engine howling, but the forri does not get faster. My dealer was not reachable, so I immediately turned off. Subaru. A technician told me that the problem is known. And you always have to synchronize the game of clutch and gas foot. I was speechless, a car BJ 2011 where you have to learn to drive a new car to pull a trailer of 1200 KG. Now tomorrow the car has to go to the dealer, even he shared with me that the Forester Diesel always smells a little bit while driving with load. I’m curious what comes out of it? If I think about it, it can’t really go, The same powertrain as the Impreza is installed in the Forri Diesel. However, the Impreza has quite different trailer loads. Of course that doesn’t fit a bigger clutch. I’m sure that the Diesel will get a new one in the future, something that has already heard out at Subaru. it was very quiet to hear on the phone when I argued that way. Last Saturday I was looking for a trailer that I wanted to pull out with the car, well that I didn’t want to use the car. The trailer dealer himself drives the Sharan Diesel and pulls with it 7 meters caravans, if you look at the data here, you can read that the TDI engines are equipped with double couplings. So the Germans still manufacture according to the principle “double muffled holds better “

  • Tyre pressure control system (RDKS) sensors? Recommendation for aluminium or steel rims in winter?

    Hi together, I’m looking for wheels and tyres for the winter (Forester SJ, MJ 2018, Platinum). According to the website of a tyre shop, no RDKS sensors are required for the passive tyre pressure control system (RDKS):https://www.felgenshop.de/source/skin/default/img/fsv2/RDKS-Passiv.png On the other hand, with the active RDKS already:https://www.felgenshop.de/source/skin/default/img/fsv2/RDKS-Activ.png Is a passive or active RDKS installed in the Forester SJ (MJ 2018, Platinum)? My Forester shows that In the display no tyre pressures on (unless I have never checked/set this before), so that I go out of a passive RDKS. Then I would not need to order any sensors when ordering winter bikes (wheels and tyres). Correct?EDIT: According to the list of the ADAC, the Forester IV (SJ) has a direct measurement by means of a sensor. So I have to order some extra ones?EDIT-End Does your aluminium or steel rims recommend in winter? What about snow chains? Where can I find information about which snow chains? e Wheel dimensions for my vehicle must be adhered to (boreing, press-in depth etc.)? In the registration certificates Part I and II and in the Subaru Forester catalogue (technical data) I could only find the tyre dimensions (225/55 R18 98V). Thank you for your help!

  • pathfinder ???

    Hi people have before me to buy a nissan pathfinder. has someone experience with the car. positive or negative??? would also like to know if you can install a chip??? 170km/h is too little for me