Hello, I will get the next weeks summer tyres 275/35 20 inches on original 5 segment spoke rim 9.5×20″ for my Audi RS6 4F. I bought the RS6 2 months ago with winter tires, so I have no experience which summer tires are suitable. Which summer tire (factory) is recommended? Quietness/roll resistance/wear? Have had performance increased to 655 hp and V-Max suspension up to 340 km/h. The tyre should therefore be approved over 300 km/h. Thank you Thomas
Author: 00c12f
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Dot 2008! Still buy?
Hello, just a used set of winter tyres was offered to me. Tires: Continental Winter Contact Ts-810 Conti Seal Profile: approx. 7mm However, DOT 31/2008… Can the tire survive another winter? I will drive to the 10000 km in winter..
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Tragic joint dejected
For the time being: if this topic does not fit here please postpone! Had TÜV examination today, defects: carrying joint is knocked out. The thing is, exactly the carrying joint has been replaced in the autumn. The colleague of the contract workshop was not there, but his colleague said on the carrying joint are anyway 2 years guarantee. But what does that mean that a carrying joint has been knocked out? Do you have to just have it straightened or even replace it? I can do a lot, but I have about cars rela tiv little idea Thanks in advance
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Gearbox Set switching points Pontiac Catalina 79
Hello oldie friends, I still wanted to ask if you can adjust the switching points for the automatic transmission of the Catalina’s series 2B (series VI from ’77) – and if yes: where respectively how? I think that the switching process from the first to the second is a little too high. Especially in the case of cold engine, the switching threshold from the – 1th to the 2nd gear is about 45km/h or at approx. 35-40km/h if I take the gas away – from the 2nd to the 3rd at approx. 45-50km/h. The warm motor is then switched from the – 1th in the 2nd at approx. 30-35km/h – from the 2nd in the 3rd at 40-45km/h. With more gas of course significantly higher touring. Oil level was a little low – have already refilled a little. After that I was not able to see so much to make a significant change. The 2nd thing: In the case of a cold motor, the gearbox switches slightly rough from the first in the 2nd. Can you also change this or would be a comprehensive repair of needs ? Also here – I know, the thing with the glass ball and the distance. But maybe you still have tips and tricks where I can start. In the carburetor thread I was recommended a repair guide for the car. Are there possibly also gear settings in there?
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US Car Magazines
The winter is approaching, the gold piece from Wixom has been stored professionally and so the coming weeks will probably become dreary and grey. So that I do not fall into winter depression, I thought, I get myself by subscription some sunshine in the form of a magazine on the topic of Vintage US Cars in the house – only which ones? The German-language journals “Chrom & Flamme” and “Street Magazines” are quite nice, but journalistically too unpretentious for me. “Car & Driver”, “Road & Track” and “Motor Trend” beha Unfortunately, most of all current vehicles, which I am not particularly interested in personally, “Classic Motorsports is heavy on motorsport – and that finally brings me to my question: What are you reading like this? Which (brand independent) Classic US Car magazine do you like so much that you can recommend it to others? If there is nothing good in the magazine sector, of course, good books can be recommended as well…
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Dodge Challenger
Hello fellow forists & experts, I’ve been a silent reader in your great forum for a long time and have signed up now because it’s getting serious for me. I need (will) a Dodge Challenger. Simply because I like it. Either a new car – then my budget (max. 40,000) is enough for a V6. Or a used V8. Or just a used cheaper SXT. Now to my problem: Unfortunately, I’m not so fit in the matter that I can rule out using the used car. I have been checking the offers at mobile.de for months, but which dealer (somehow it is only a handful and always the same) is to be trusted? Do you have a tip for me, I am grateful for every hint. I also came across www.diepruefer.de. For 150 € the used ones check through. Does that tell you what? Thanks in advance and nice greetings Chris
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Daily swing wanted – opinions asked
Heyho, I’m currently looking for a US car (max. 10k) to be independent of the Buick PA (the PA has become too vulnerable to me). I’ve been looking at a 2002 Cadillac Deville DHS, the condition was really more than okay, the underbody was like new. The engine compartment had a similar condition to my PA (screws/screws modern ahead of it). And yet I had a strange gut feeling as if it wasn’t supposed to be mine. The interior was “good” as the one from the PA. were a dream and since he was a DHS, he had a bench in front and no single seats. Now my question, what do you drive like this in everyday life or maybe only on isolated days of the week. At the moment I am a bit down and perplexed, have read too much about the Northstar (until 2004) and also about the GM 3.6 where one literally (YT-Video) was of the opinion “never buy a 3.6, never….its trash”. Hard words, too bad, I wanted to look over to the CTS right away. But what more could I do? Anyway, the fact that the newer the years of construction will be the less displacement will be installed in the limousines, but that’s just my personal problem.
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Brake disc screw: tightening torque and mounting paste
Hello! I’m just breaking my head for my Daelim Otello 125 FI S1. Because according to WHB I need for the original installed screws for the brake disc M8x24 hexagonally set off with lens flattening head, 39 Nm tightening torque. In addition, there is also screw securing (which in the WHB nothing stands, however it does not do there) medium-proof. Now, for safety, I want to add also Weicon Anti-Seize, a mounting paste, so that a fixed rust is impossible. Is this useful or does it make it impossible for me to secure a bolt? And: is a screw that has “switched off”, i.e. has a so-called “centring function”? Because if I do, I would have to buy expensive screws specifically for scootershttps://www.scooter-center.com/…/18-5er-set-76766661 instead of cheap with self-strength:https://www.schraubenking.at/…fschraube-ISO7380-verzinkt -109-P004993
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Why does Google think I’m stupid?
Hi, I’m always astonished which ads I get here. Normally the ads are well adapted to the user. That makes them really money. But here I see that I can get rid of both wrinkles and fat for 39,00 € and buy a pad for 19.00 €. I’m not quite that stupid then. Is one as MotorTalker packed right into the bottom drawer? cu
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Cadillac Seville STS Shock Absorber leaks…
Greetings, Now I’ve finally fixed this problem… two days later I notice that the rear is always so extremely high up… After 1-2 more days the onboard computer tells me to check the chassis… So I just just got down the right rear wheel and see immediately how the shock absorber runs out… The rubber is extremely cracked and it’s probably going out -.- (see picture) I know that the shock absorbers are really expensive… With Rockauto I find for the STS Links + Right for just under 800€ Original damper. Also there are those listed by the SLS the piece 120€ I can also take? Then there are still some of KYB for 60€ there stands the air leveling unit own, so is that still the air suspension or are they just crappy? and not recommended. I know that you can exchange the also for normal dampers for not even 30-50€ with a resistance there is then also no on-board computer complaining. However, I do not want to give the “glide” . Is it possible to fix it again, at least for one or two months? If I drive on for weeks now, that’s bad? Does that have any effect? Should I consider what? Furthermore, my question can be changed yourself? I guess it’s not that easy because of the spring…