Hello! Just before I ask the question: I passed my A2 driver’s license yesterday. And my father has a Suzuki dr 650 SE from 1999. This has 32 kW and an unladen weight of 165 kg, which results in a power weight of 0.20. This means that I can drive it with the A2 driver’s license. Now my father said he changed the pinion. Original has the machine 15 teeth in front and back 41 and he said that now the machine has 14 teeth in front and 43 in back. l? Thus it should be better machine in the passage, but at the final speed a little slower. Bzw. if it is legal, you have to register this change? or can I drive with it without hesitation? The machine actually gets slower by this change than the entered final speed. He meant that he ordered this kit: https://www.louis.de/…/10048000?… So to break all this down: I want to make sure that everything is legal and I don’t bleme. And my driver’s license is not endangered. Would look forward to professional answers!
Author: 00c12f
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Engine goes off while driving.
I then typed a defect battery and then tried it with another battery, with the same result. Also the measured values are almost identical. However, since my car drives without any problems with the second battery, I ruled out the battery as a source of error. I also noticed that both cables on the battery become very hot when I press the starter. Now to my question: What could the problem be? e however, do not explain why the motorcycle runs out when it is fully driven. The Lima can not (only) be, otherwise the machine would still start with a fully charged battery.
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Z800e / LED turn signal
Hello, I’ve been a proud owner of a Z800(e) for a year now. However, I would like to be on the road from this year with a short license plate holder and LED turn signals. I already read a few topics here in the forum about the LED turn signal, but I just want to make sure that I got it right again. I chose this license plate holder at Louis.de. In addition, these LED turn signal for front and rear. If I understood all the posts right now the original relay can not work with 4 LED indicators. As far as so good. I need either resistors or a suitable new relay for this. However, the linked one by Louis does not support a warning flashing light system according to the product description. However, this one is present with me. Here in the forum a user linked to this relay (independent of load). Is this correct? Furthermore, the question arises to me what the LED indicators have for a plug. or are these usually only two strands coming from the flasher. Here are two photos of the previous plugs / sockets. And another question, where can I find the relay? In the rear or somewhere under the tank? Thank you for your help! Greeting Jonny
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Z800 also something for beginners?
Hello together, I’ve been driving a Honda CBR500R with 48hp for about 2 years (and about 22,000km). Now that I finally got my open driver’s license, I’m looking for something with more power, sound and emotions The Kawa Z800 would satisfy all my wishes at first sight and is at the moment quite high on my wish list. My only concern is in the rideability and that the Z800 might overburden me as… well advanced beginner. my questions to you: How does the high weight of the Z800 behave, for example, in tight curves? How do you estimate the Z800 from the rideability compared to something as light as a Ninja 636 / cbr600rr? All in all, just leave your opinion on the Z800 in combination with a sporty driver with 2 years of driving experience Thank you already to all in advance
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Z 1300
Hello guys. Can someone tell me something about the Z 1300. I was offered such a part from a collector’s resolution. The net doesn’t give much except driving reports. There’s only something of sow heavy, little slanting freedom and that it sucks like a hole. But the six-cylinder must be the scratcher. And that counts for me. I’m mainly concerned with spare parts supply, tyre availability and the stability of the machine. Is the last carburettor model, A4, I think. nk in advance
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random cylinder failure
My first thought was that the spark plug is broken. So today I replaced all spark plugs and did a test drive. Unfortunately, the problem was not completely fixed. The cylinder seems to get out arbitrarily. If I press the gas train about 1/4 during the drive, I feel as the cylinder runs normally. If I now very LANGSAM continues to span the gas train or give gas the cylinder remains with it. If there is a sudden gas, the cylinder will be left with it. When I have suspended the cooling circuit, some cooling water has run into the spark plug depth (or as it is called = D). After about 30 km the water must have evaporated again, so that no short circuit can arise or? The speed range does not seem to play such a big role, whereby it switches on on the top (approx. 5000) more easily. Turns out, even up to 1100 rpm no discoloration of the exhaust fumes fuel would also have to go to the cylinder anger valves were re-set about half a year ago. Carburettors were cleaned (not synchronised) A spark plug was heavily rusted, maybe that helps.
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Rat damaged car, who could be liable
Hello, I unfortunately do not reach my insurance broker and my insurance documents are already stowed in the moving skis and spontaneously undetectable. With us a rat gnawed into the vehicle interior and caused damage to the electrical system and the interior, not to mention the contamination of feces and urine. The vehicle is standing at night in a garage and in this was now found in a corner a hole which can also be attributed to a rat. after looking at the codification definitely sure that it is a rat. The way inside we have found today also, it is a cable entry in the upper left of the engine room directly to the instruments and the fuse block. The engine warning light already lit up already on Who can possibly be held liable for this damage? Vehicle has TK, possible rat infestation by littering the unused neighboring garages (the garages are not detached)was already before several Woc hen informs the landlord, which however nothing in the morning we should try to get into a specialist workshop which first evaluates the damage without obligation. Currently we drive with a sharp rat trap in the vehicle through the area, because the rat also caused damage after the cleaning, which took place elsewhere and was still on the way home again. So the cattle already drove and is possibly still in the vehicle So who could possibly l in question? the land leaser who was informed, the owner who built the garage on the lease site at some point, the neighbor whose garage is trashed? or simply the TK like at the marten bite? Thank you. P.S. Do you actually have to report rat infestation in Meck-Pom to anyone officially?
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Car repair, broken again after 4 weeks
Hello, in my car the window at the driver’s door didn’t open any more. When I was there to the inspector, I also mentioned the window that I wanted to fix it again. When I picked up the car, everything went again. But after 4 weeks the window didn’t open again. The next day it went on its own again. But now, after another 4 weeks it doesn’t go again. I drove again in the workshop. There they told me that the This would cost 200 euros. Then I asked what the last time it cost (I thought I didn’t have the bill any more) , I was told that it didn’t cost anything, that there would be 0.00. But at home I found the bill now, it says: Door panel unmounted and built in, window lifter loosed and fastened. 75,00 Eur o. (I assume that they didn’t deliberately lie to me, because this text went over 2 lines, at the end of the first line was 0.00 euros and at the end of the second line the amount was only.) If I put my car in the workshop to have it repaired, then I will also be able to fix it and not only temporarily hold it for a few weeks. On the other hand, I assume that 75 euros is also appropriate for such a work, which have finally built up everything and so on. .. Or? What do you think? Greeting 🙂
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Dirt in diesel
Hello experts. Here’s a report about which it is worth to meditate. Vehicle is a VW Sharan BMT 170 hp from 2011. Power loss and jerking sporadic. Gradually put off symptoms. Workshop read out several times without finding out. When it was time again directly in workshop without having to take out. 1 week troubleshooting later the diagnosis. Water in tank, dirt in tank. Fuel filter clean but renewed. Diesel sample Yellowish, foamy, with black particles. Marder damage Kraf fuel return line. Cost point of the invoice 850 € without further results. What do you say about it? I find this somewhat questionable. Bad diesel can definitely be excluded. And diesel stains under the car also (garage car). Fuel is the same tank for all cars. My guess is paraffine after service life or in the tank something dissolves!?
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1.9 D keeps the speed of switching short to high
Hello, since no one in the Fiat Forum gets in the right way, I try my question here. The following: I have a Strada 1.9D year 2002. This drives without any problems, only when switching he holds the rotary zal too long up so that there are more shift trucks in the lower gears. This is especially annoying when you turn on a parking lot and then kick the clutch to hold on. Or when you drive over a parking lot and then kick the clutch. People look then Always, as if you were too stupid to drive because it still holds the driven speed for about 2 seconds. If you give gas in the stand it reacts a little delayed so probably with the gas acceptance and also gas removal. If it is cold, the problem is rarely present. Does someone here perhaps have an idea how to turn off the behavior?