Until now, I have never checked the tyre air pressure at regular intervals. However, after an acquaintance had an accident because of a tyre pitcher, and I also read appropriate tips from the ADAC, I would like to do so at regular intervals. However, my project was interrupted by an acquaintance whose tyre dealer strongly advises from testing the air pressure, since there is no calibration at both petrol stations and private equipment, and with every measurement the chance high When measuring at petrol stations, I always had the reservation that the tyres could not be measured cold there. Now to my questions: 1. Is it sensible to check regularly? How regularly should one perform it? 2. Which devices are recommended for the domestic check of the pressure and the subsequent pumping in? I still have a century old compressor, but if it is suitable, I dare to doubt it. My question is to damage the valve. It may sound green, but in the cents of years I drive, I never thought checking was important. Now that my son is more interested in these things after the driver’s license, he always meets me with such things. So would be very grateful if you could give me some information.
Author: 00c12f
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Crack and creak from the front axle
For a few days I’ve had creaking sounds, sometimes crunching or crackling, but mostly a creaking. I think that comes from the front axle. Also in the straight run, but especially when steering. I hear this very clearly and annoyingly at low speeds. When I press the front right from above on the fender I hear it creaking, left not. Can that be the feather legs? Or drive shaft? Did anyone have that already? I have an appointment in the SEC on Thursday and it s on the phone already as if the friendly gentleman knows what that is and wants to provide parts already.
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From BMW to Model 3 SR
Hello everybody, I need your advice! First of all, I would ask you to leave out the subjective aspect of your advice and really evaluate it objectively. I bought a 2 year young bmw g20 320 Diesel mild hybrid with 190ps at the end of last year. Now my professional situation has changed and I am considering buying a new Tesla Model 3 Standard Range. It is a new vehicle from December 2022 with 100km. Costs would include the cost of my bmws almost 42000€ with the very small engine. I would usually drive under 300km at a time, probably only around 40-100km and occasionally to a distance 200km and a few hours later again 200km. Loading I would / could only change to public charging column. I am very pleased with the technology in Tesla, today there was the first test drive and it was dream like nightmare. What disturbed me the feeling when driving over bumps, something has me to my old citrö In addition, I wonder how realistic 200,000 km with the Tesla are in terms of the materials. For example, the seats were extremely soft, the shock absorbers didn’t feel so constant when driving ….. I’m torn back and forth and I’m just afraid to take the step. Would therefore ask you to express your overall opinion and experience on the subject. Maybe someone has made an identical change. On the one hand, I’m excited about the other I know n Icht so ganz …. [Persistent fat lettering removed from motor talk.]
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Model 3 – Paint quality
How have you been satisfied with the lacquer quality of your already delivered Model 3? In Netz you will find faults (stau-leg closures, pimples, polishing fog etc.) especially with the two multicoat coatings, i.e. with red and white.
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Request a vehicle letter – Affidavit
In another post I have already told about a Golf VI that I get about acquaintances. Unfortunately there are problems with the vehicle letter – about the process of the reapplication I am quite confused. The situation looks like this. In the family of my girlfriend an elderly (and ill) family member had a car – which could not use the vehicle anymore because of age and illness. Now the car was newly registered and brought by me to a friend’s workshop. I have received the vehicle certificate (declared “declared” by the registration office) and unfortunately no one can find the vehicle letter. However, I need the letter now for the registration or registration. The application for a vehicle letter seems to be a rather difficult matter – but I have found contradictory information. On the one hand, I read that only the original holder can provide an affidavit, to apply for the letter. Unfortunately, the original holder is not able to provide an affidavit to the admission office. Is the only alternative really the signing with the notary? I would like to avoid this because of the expenses/costs. Or is the completed form sufficient for the signing of the affidavit insurance, as it can be found on the website of some admission offices? The owner’s brother has a general power. Is that enough for the affidavit? Is there also a way to keep on annoying the family without the issue? Would a sales contract suffice in which it says that the vehicle letter has been lost? Thank you for your help.
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Hofmann Geodyna 2100 steel wheels were not able to balance
Hello, have me a Hofman Geodyna 2100 built year 1996 increased, as far as everything paletti happens when I balance aluminum rims to measure this faultless rims to measure data enter weights are displayed then glued test run and 2x ok. BUT with steel rims clearly first from ́ ́ ́ALU ́ ́ to ́ ́ ́NORMAL ́ ́ program set then enter data again and then the weights are shown to me this I then also axial strike but then at the control rotation she still wants to m very weights have attached to a completely different place and if I also bring this what you don’t actually do even then it’s not enough and so it goes on forever so I can do what I want with steel rims I never get this on NULL??? To info Calibrated I got it right before!! Hope this was right so let c14 turn then turn the kalibrie weight on it and wait until this dumpling sounds??? What can I still do n I don’t understand it quite as yes alufelgen perfectly funkionieren…Bin echlich über jeden info zusammenbar mfg Thomas K. aus H.
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Unbeknownst bolts
Good day, I screw on my car and wanted to change a timing belt now but this screw is bothering me. As you can see, I tried to grind it a little bit to get in with a ratchet or something like that. Unfortunately, even the hammering of a tork had not worked out. If someone has a solution, except welding, I would be very happy. Mfg.
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Accident-can the evaluator shut down?
Hello, I have a question, it happens this scenario: A vehicle gets into an uninsolved accident and is something demolished, jeodch for the driver not restricted driving ready. Now he goes to the expert to estimate the damage, in order to be compensated. But the vehicle owner wants to drive the vehicle unrepaired. Now the question: May/can the expert force the car to shut down (let) because he realizes that e.g. the one wheel is something wrong? Or created He only has the report and the thing is done for him? Does anyone know exactly how this is regulated?
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Preparation for AU
Hi, I have to go to the AU 11/05 and wonder if I can check certain things myself or examine them before I can detect any defects and fix them before the AU. At the HU it’s not a problem, you can see many things (e.g. rust, brake pads down, oil cut off from the engine, cross handlebar bearings, …………………..) But what can you look at in front of the AU? And I don’t know in which condition the exhaust gases are in my car. r AU should pay attention to getting through better if you’re just at the border with something? For example, Original ESD reassembly instead of Sport ESD, check bells again (that’s all close to the exhaust system), new spark plugs + oil + possibly refuel a little better spritz before, drive engine before nice warm, ….? Or does all this have no influence on it and you can’t check anything before? The problem is, I don’t know if I come through the AU or not or where I can get through the AU. and I don’t want to fail. What if you fail? Is that the same as with HU with a follow-up within 1 month? mfg