Looking at the tyre profile after 10000 kilometers, I’m a little scared now. There’s not much on it anymore. So if I manage 20000 kilometers with it, it’s a lot. It’s almost like a motorcycle. Will have to get me a family pack, or I’ll start a tyre trade myself. At 60 – 8000 kilometers a year, there’s something coming together. Markus
Author: 00c12f
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Mini vs. Alfa MiTo
http://www.autozeitung.de/compare test/two-small-with-style Have fun zzizou
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Experience with the Works after 10000 kilometres
The drive-in time has been over for a long time and the speedometer now shows more than 10,000 kilometers. Time to give a small resume to the Mini Cooper Works. In summary, I can say that the Works is an incomparable car for me with a hammer engine that is a lot of fun. But in turn. The Works actually has two faces. On the one hand, if you look at the speed limit and the directional speed on the motorway t, an enormously economical car ( on average 7.5 liters ), which is very harmonious, comfortable and at the same time very fast, confident and relaxed to drive and therefore suitable for long distances like hardly any other car, apart from the Cooper D. On the other hand a car, which with pressed sports button and heavy right foot becomes the sport device of the very first quality. Hard to tame, incredibly fast and quite thirsty. The whole garnishes with a sound, which The Works doesn’t have any real enemies on the highway or on the highway, apart from a few exotics. Even the whole TDI fraction rubs its eyes regularly. In the 4th or 5th course, the Works has a pass at its finest, with the 6th course actually almost always enough. The Works feels particularly comfortable on the country road and on the highway at speeds between 140 and 200 km/h. The 256 km/h, which at 6,500 rpm, b When the speed limit (red range starts at 6,500 rpm) is reached on the speedometer, it is reached by a high speed and if the road is still slightly downhill, the digital speedometer can also stand at 260. The combination of sports suspension ( 200,– Euro surcharge ) and Dunlop Sport Maxx ( of course no Runflats ) in combination with distance discs ( 10 mm per axis ) is the ideal mixture of comfort and sport and leaves nothing to be desired. Speed range clearly over 200 km/h is a bit tiring in the long run. Little weight, short wheelbase, roaring exhaust and a sporty chassis are counterproductive here. My Porsche Boxster shows the same symptom here, however. A 7 BMW is even more relaxed at 300 km/h. However, this should not be understood as a criticism, quite the contrary, it just shows the ideal moment for work, the country road to have fun and the highway to the fast By the way, the consumption then commutes between 8 and 9 liters. Only those who constantly have more than 200 km/h standing on the clock comes over 10 liters, then it can even become up to 15 liters, but then you have to exert yourself properly. The engine is really a poem. Gas acceptance, power development, flow, sound and the consumption are simply the finest. For me the best 4 cylinder to buy. Against the background of the offered the works can be thoroughly I hope the short report was not too long and before the first questions appear, no, I don’t get anything from Mini for it. If someone wants to donate, I would like to inform you on request of my bank details. Markus
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Attention : Mini Stuttgart completely talent-free
What I have experienced with my Cooper D at the BMW / Mini branch in Stuttgart Vaihingen within one year ridicules every description. Therefore, after very good experience with BMW / Mini in Schramberg, I bought my works there too. Only three examples of many, but why it is strongly advised from the Mini / BMW branch in Stuttgart : – When now at a dealer nearby (the ADAC was not ready to cover a larger distance ) a damaged Front window should be washed was found, that the aperture on the left A column was damaged by Mini Stuttgart a few months ago (stone blow ) so that the screws no longer hold. The guys in Stuttgart were so clever or diletant that they simply glued the aperture on with hot glue instead of ordering and mounting a new part. Cheerfulness. – A few weeks ago the brake pads were replaced at the back, Since they were worn out. After I drove several thousand kilometers with it, I found that the kilometers until the next inspection in the display always remain constant and no less. It was then determined that the sensor was not installed properly and therefore the function was not in order. The replacement then worked but unfortunately the function could not be reset at the 2nd appointment and a 3rd appointment had to be arranged ( 1 whole Day ) to play a completely new software. The cheekyness was now that I also got an invoice for the wrong built-in feeler. – At the end of last year I had noticed a poltern on the rear axle and therefore spent the car for a day in the workshop. At noon I got a call that the vehicle was ready and I could pick it up in the evening. For the day I had a spare mini from the car dealership. So the 150 kilometers to go there Unfortunately, the workshop manager had to tell me that he had just done a test drive with my Cooper D and that the mistake still occurs. In order to speed up the whole thing, I took another hour to get to the bottom of the noise (was an ex factory part on the rear axle of some driving trains incorrectly installed). However, because the replacement vehicle was needed, I got over the car vermi located in the branch office. The 300 kilometres had been almost for nothing. However, the impudence was that I had received a juicy invoice for the rental vehicle including petrol costs and it came to the notice. Only after a conversation with the chief stage was the whole thing stopped. Markus
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Navigation system in new Cooper Cabrio
Hello together Maybe I order a new Mini Cooper convertible today. An important option for me is the navigation system. Unfortunately, no dealer in the vicinity has a vehicle with navigation. Apparently this option is not very much asked. I know the navigation system of Audi (MMI) and the TomTom (Go 720). Can you please give some information on how the mini navigation system works in comparison. For other helpful convertible options tips I am of course a uf open. Thanks and Greetings Reto
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Use Carly as the first measure for diagnosis?
Hi guys, I’m thinking about buying the Carly Adapter to be able to perform 1. Diagnosis on the car. Does any of you have the part in use? How far can you check things on the car with it? I’m aware that the part does not replace StarDiagnosis. I would like to use it as the first measure for diagnosis. Before actually repairing should be done, I would have someone check again with a StarDiagnosis or have the Carly result verified. for the following cars: W202 BJ 1998 W204 BJ 2007 W221 BJ 2008 W205 BJ 2014 Best regards, Toni
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Clutch slips
Hello, I own a Mercedes W202 C220 and have renewed the clutch here. Speak of everything except mass swing wheel pull-out plate and friction disc. However, it slips nevertheless and has a bad pressure in the pedal. It can be pressed very simply as if there is no resistance, as it separates but drives the car. Only at higher speed it slips again. And according to Mercedes-Benz, the clutch is no longer manufactured. What should I do?
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New battery dropped to 0 volts. How high is the wear?
I changed my 12 volt battery 3 weeks ago. Unfortunately I left the dipped light in my Golf 4 over 2 days. The battery was then completely empty. Not even the ignition went on. I couldn’t even charge the battery. The 12 volt battery was not detected. Only when I switched my old battery in parallel was the new empty battery charged. I fully charged the new battery and reinstalled it. Car starts. I also have another 1 volt battery. 2 V battery ordered because I absolutely need the car from Tuesday and I didn’t think that the completely empty battery can recharge. Now I have two questions: Is the battery worn out strongly even though I could recharge it? The battery is practically new. I want to keep the additional 12 V battery as a reserve. How long can a new 12 V battery be stored, which was not “activated” or not installed before it starts to wear out?
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Lock rusted in the trailer coupling
Happy Sunday dear Audi friends, I have a few questions about my A4 2.0 TDI (EZ 10/2009 -> 2010 model) and hope you can help me. I know the AHK question (1) is not necessarily Audi-related, but hope for an answer anyway. 1) I have such a removable Westfalia trailer coupling (similar) as on the photo. The previous owner of my A4 had probably had the trailer coupling permanently mounted, and always has the red key in the trailer coupling I started using a lot of rust solvers and then tried to pull out the key with a plier, but the key was broken. The “key-blade” was very porous because of rust. Then I tried to drill out the key rest, which was probably not a good idea, because now the key cylinder is broken. Here someone knows, whether you can replace the lock cylinder individually, or you need to sit down, with the result that this TOTAL was rusted. a completely new hook? If you can change the lock cylinder, who does it most cheaply? 2) The second question concerns the MMI system in my Audi. Can you see from the attached photo which MMI version I have in my A4? I have already searched and Googled here in the forum, but am not quite sure if I am right – but isn’t it a MMI 3G Basic? Thanks in advance for your answers.
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Std. dampers vs. shortened (Bilstein B8)
One year ago I lowered my Mazda 6 GH with H&R sport springs (40mm). Since the rear dampers had to be changed shortly before, I also changed the front time with the lowering springs for new ones (at least 70€/piece). Driving behaviour had been great at the beginning. Is it actually now, only that for a few months the car slightly hops or moves sideways in fast-run bends at blows or bumps. ackst/klackert it now also very strongly front right when driving over unevennesses. It would be best to describe this as if the axle had not been screwed in front somewhere completely or the cans de transverse handlebars knocked out. –>But everything is not the case. Even oils the dampers don’t. Could it be that the dampers are already over now after a year old. What you should know. The lowering is, although indicated with 40mm, at front easy 60, if not even 65mm ong efallen. Was initially surprised, and nobody could explain to me, even the shop, where I bought it (mk-fahrwerkstechnik.de) But it all fit, looks meeega, and driving behavior top. Now to my questions: 1. Could this extreme (at least for a serial damper) lowering have killed the front dampers for a year already?? 2. Are these noises (paintings) common or point to a damper defect ??? 3. could I actually beantantan the……. ? Now I’m thinking about getting the B8, are the shortened dampers of Bilstein just for strong lowerings…… …..and then three more questions: 4. Is the “healthy” (i.e. regarding driving behavior) front B8 and rear standard dampers??? 5. Does the car come further deeper by the switch from Standard to the shortened B8? That wouldn’t suit me at all…..because it’s already ass-knack with the wheelrails front. 6. Would it be a consideration to press the springs behind to leave, that they also come on rough 60mm draught … and then immediately around B8 ́s ?? Here are some more pictures: