MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Turn signal does not work, wrench lights in dashboard

    Hello, I have several trailers with 7-pin connectors. At the Ahk on the car have a 13-pin plug. So I use an adapter that is usually always in the socket on the car. For a few days the turn signal on the car no longer works and the lamp lights up in the dashboard with the wrench when the adapter is in the car and no trailer is connected. Before, the adapter has stuck at least 8000 km in the car without any problems. say what’s going on? mfg Friedel

  • Vivaro Life interior lighting

    Hello, I have a small problem with the interior lighting on my Vivaro Life. The front lighting turns on/off when the driver or passenger door is opened/closed. The rear lighting with additional reading lamps above the second and third row of seats cannot be switched ON/OFF via the front or rear doors. Manually, however, this works. Each of the rear lamps has a toggle switch with three positions. Switch positions for MANUAL ON, OFF, and TURCONTACT CALLS stand. However, this is not the case. I cannot set the switches so that the rear interior lighting is switched on e.g. with the sliding door. However, the door contact switches seem to be OK, since the front lighting works. Can someone give me a hint, what am I doing wrong? The operating instructions do not give anything usable. Mfg. Tom

  • Upgrade heaters in Trafic

    Hello together! I want to apologize in advance if I open here a topic that has already been dealt with several times. I am new here, but I found nothing suitable in the search function. I drive a Renault Trafic II JL 1,9 liter diesel 73kW Passenger, in which a Eberspächer heater D5WZ is installed. As many people know, there is the possibility to upgrade this to full-fledged heater…at least theoretically. I would like to know if the upgrade kits of these vehicles can also be installed on me. I have now compared the schematics. However, since I am electronically rather undisturbed, I now turn to you. Maybe someone already has experience of “adapting” other upgrade kits. Thank you very much in advance.

  • XJ600 Diversion Carburettor Preheating

    Servus. I’m new here and hope to find an old rabbit or Häsing, which can give me tips for my problem. I live in the south of Germany and by nature I often travel in the Dolomites. Normally I drive a Triumph Explorer, but at the end of last year I saved at a sentimental moment an XJ600 S Diversion 4BR(A) year ’94 from scrapping. The moped was driven a lot but also experienced quite regular service. There were too many repairs to the previous owner. The engine runs quite round and willing, if you persuaded him to run, there he is a little bitchy, especially if it is colder 🙂 …. I am not a KfZ mechanic now, so I would certainly have to use a workshop if it were to be done around the engine. Quite a lot on the outside I like to do however myself. Meanwhile the good piece of me has e.g. new tyres, new brake discs, steel flex brake glue of course also a fresh brake fluid and new brake pads. In addition, I replaced the defective charging controller, as well as the leaking seals of petrol tap and float chamber covers. Now, however, I am faced with the problem of a defective “carburettor preheater” installation. The previous owner had already made me aware that he has been driving without it for a while. . After I have just sunk down the tank anyway and there is a spare part to buy in the bay, I thought that I would deal with the topic right away. However, I find no information about what is included in this preheater and how it works in principle – if I don’t know exactly how something works, I will leave the fingers of it… Is there vlt. jmd., who can help me here: how is the principal functioning of this preheater? g and which parts may have to be replaced to make the thing work again. Many thanks and greetings from Garmisch Robert

  • Engine XTZ 660 stutters when it gets warm

    I have a problem that I can’t handle myself. The following problem has been around for a long time, so I tried to solve the problem myself and suspected the error on the carburetor. But unfortunately without success. I turned a lap again today and at the beginning the box ran great, without any problems stuttering. But the warmer the engine got the worse the stuttering. So where the engine was completely cold, nothing was until it got warmer. The candle picture is 1A. So If the engine is warm: From a certain position of the slider (approx. 1/4 gas) the engine stutters. Whether in stationary gas or during acceleration. When accelerating, the stuttering is extreme. If I open the gas tap immediately (except for full gas), it is not stuttering. The stuttering is also when I drive to the Bsp 140 km/h, take the gas completely away and then turn it again to 1/4 gas. So it is not possible to lie on the carburettor, because I checked and cleaned everything there. I didn’t change or screw around. For me, this sounds like a carburetor problem, but I took the carburetor completely apart, looked at each nozzle and checked the suction sockets for leaking. Can it be on the pick up or on the ignition coil? I don’t know what else to do. I can’t remember what it could be anymore. So many components don’t come up anymore. I’ll buy another spark plug tomorrow, but don’t think it’s because of it. Have new spark plugs + other control unit installed. Can jemnad help me or have an idea what it might be about?

  • Carburettor synchronization – 1 carburettor cannot be set

    Hi, everybody, I tried to synchronize the carburetors after their overhaul, but a cylinder dances out of line and I don’t get it tamed… :/ The carburetor bench was disassembled for overhaul, ultrasonic cleaned and equipped with new nozzles and seals. The float level was set to 13mm and the idle mixing screw was unscrewed 2 revolutions. The engine is running (not yet perfect) and also takes good gas, but cylinder 2 dances out of line . The clocks cross-changed – no change. As soon as I give gas, the pointer blows out. What could it be that cylinder 2 cannot be adjusted? What can I do? What do I have to do? What have I overlooked or not considered? Thank you and Best regards (the left clock has a little Macke and hangs about 0.7 afterwards)

  • Yamaha YZF R1 start aid

    Hello for now, I have recently been in possession of a Yamaha YZF R1 Rn32 Bj. 2016 and have the problem that the machine sometimes does not start because the battery (Shido Lithium LTZ7S/YTZ7S 12V/6AH) is too “weak” (?) at the first start attempt or even after a few days without driving, is already empty. Sounds like a problem with the battery, but I have already bought a new one and the problem has nevertheless occurred. It is a lithium battery, so it can also be due to the minus degrees of the last weeks, which this battery type does not put away so well. I would like a mobile starting aid, which in the best case is quite compact and which I can connect directly to my motorcycle. My plan was the following: 1. To have a starting aid cable (ring eyelets to EC5 plug) permanently on the battery and to have access from the outside. 2. A starting aid power bank with EC5 connector, which I can connect if necessary. I have my Bed Is an EC5 connector better or a SAE connector? 3. Is there something to consider when starting a lithium battery? (some of these start-up power banks probably only work with lead batteries and I haven’t found one for lithium so far) I would be very happy about help, as I’ve been researching this topic for days, but I don’t really get smart about it… Maybe there is already someone who has such a assembly himself and can tell me the components? Thank you in advance, Leander

  • Help around the Quad

    Hi everybody, I’m thinking about getting a quad in February and I wanted to ask you for your opinions and experiences. My plan is to drive the quad several times a week from A to B, but also to make longer tours with it. So it’s not only practical, but also fun! I’ve looked at a few models that could come into question, such as the Yamaha Raptor, the Suzuki LTZ or the SMC Canyon. It’s important to me that the quad is robust. t and not too vulnerable to repairs. Of course, I’m going to slow down as I don’t have much experience with quads so far. Something more affordable can be (as long as the quality is right) What do you think makes sense to use a quad for such purposes? Do you have recommendations or reviews on the models mentioned (or alternatives)? I’d be happy about every tip, whether to choose the model, to use it or what I should pay attention to. Thank you. on time for your answers, I am looking forward to your opinions! Greetings

  • Hummer H2 rims/tires TÜV registration

    Moin dear community, my brother-in-law and I have been running back and forth for a good three weeks (except for the holidays of course :-D) from tyre dealers, werkrstätten and Tüvler, and I don’t come any further. I had often heard that the high-weakness of the Tüv employees is hardly to be surpassed. But I have experienced it in the last three weeks at my own. So, genung wailing, now to our problem: My brother-in-law bought a lobster H2 here in Germany about 4 years ago. (with new Tüv) and exports him to Latvia. There he drove with it for 4 years and now he is finished with his work there, and returned. Customs with VAT we got the lobster there without any problems. It is problematic now with the Tüv. They do not accept the tyres (rightly). Because he drove over there with 22 inch Ami rims (which rotate). Here he will not get such rims registered according to the forum. My proposal was now that we over the bay a few We also found some original rims. Only before we buy them, we would like to know if we could easily get Tüv or not. Because one said to us at the Tüv, without an expert report it won’t work. The other resisted, expert report would be second priority for the time they are original rims. And where should we get an expert report from? Write GM? We would really be happy about a few help points so that we can buy them next week. Have a nice Friday… 🙂

  • Fraud Punch US Oldtimer Workshop

    Hello dear ones, need your advice. Just picked up US Ami Import from a major US Car Oldtimer workshop and found out that all repair work was carried out in a defective/powderful way or whether all the work was done at all. In addition, it is now still revealed that damage was also caused by the workshop during the time when the car was there for repair and the whole thing was kept secret and at the level of this factory. tt repaired. Date reviewers we have today. My question: what kind of procedure would you recommend? Any advice or tips? Apart from the money that we left there, of course, are humanly very disappointed, because we actually had a good feeling and they made a good impression: and now that……. we feel so stupid/naïve that we fell on their trick.