MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Snow chains at AWD ?

    Hello, I have a question for all AWD drivers. I always go to Austria for skiing in the winter. I have always had snow chains with me, and they have never used them. Now I drive a V70 D5 AWD with winter tyres 205/65/16. My chains, from my last V70, are also for the 205 tyres. Now I have read that you should not take normal chains with quick lock (because AWD !?!), but only originals of Volvo. Can someone tell me if this is only to increase the accessory turnover at Volvo, or does this have a real reason ?? Probably I won’t need them again, at least I hope, but I have them now and will have them in the car. Does anyone have experience with this or knows something about it ?? About information I would be happy. Greeting Clausen

  • Stand light light bulb replace

    Halli hello… so now I’m stinky… since yesterday I changed the light bulb at the back left, since the BC shows a defective bulb again today… and see there it is the upper bulb … where I changed the lower one yesterday… now so far so good.. but how do I get there??? lower bulb was not a topic… lol but now it’s getting tight.. has someone got a tip????

  • Cracking during load changes + Front disc breakage

    Hello S60 – Driver, after a long time, I thought, I would like to have a really great vehicle. One has finally heard about the S60 and Volvo in general very good things. Now I have such a box and I could cry. With every loadwechel it cracks – when driving off in the first and second gear, when switching up, switching down etc. had the vehicle in 2 different Volvo workshops and additionally a reviewer. The first workshop claimed it were the adjusting screws on the drive shaft – cracking was not gone. Second appointment – replacement of the wheel hub – cracking was not gone. The vehicle made to a reviewer. This made it clear that it must be the cross-drivers. Exchange of the cross-drivers in another workshop. The noise is still there. Either in Germany all the KFZ mechanics are completely faded or the training is still miserable. According to my understanding, it can only be the interface between the drive shaft and gears, or the gear itself. But in the end, you can’t be taken seriously by the Volvo workshops. But again, the second break is not possible.

  • Vibration from the amaturator board at 1500Umin, no idea from where

    Hello everyone, at about 1500Umin, when accelerating, a vibration from the dashboard occurs for a short time. I can’t get places from where it comes from. My experiments were already: center console & car radio removed and held everywhere and obeyed, but no change can be detected or located. Vibration still available. Furthermore, the windscreen wiper cover is removed to get to the 4 screws that hold a large part of the armature. These screws pulled after, no difference, unfortunately. Now I’m perplexed. Can anyone else help me? Is there any such thing as technician bulletin or secret tips that only the friendly one knows? Thank you, Mario Volvo, BJ2000, 200Tkm, gasoline, 140PS

  • Crossbar exchange….

    Very short and short: I wanted to replace the crossbars, prepared everything nicely, vehicle mounted, wheels removed, bolt connection on the frame, then came the screw behind the brake disc….I spent about 2h trying to get this piece out…unfortunately missing. Before the screw starts to deform, I gave up and fixed the old stuff again and only changed the coupling rods…. Result: steering wheel is pretty bad and I have no glimmer as I get the screw out! Roast releaser was used. I always read something of hot, but at the place? With the cuff right above it? And I have to go to TÜV this month! And my fear is that the workshop will take forever and I have to bear the costs! My next approach would be to get more space and arm clearance from the self-help workshop / lifting platform…. But I think that I don’t want to strain the material at this point too, if I still have to get that from Mecihtyl and the crossbars!

  • Krummers at the Volvo 850: New flex tube or whole Krummer?

    Good evening, I’m a newcomer here, because I have a great impression of your competence. After my Lambda light flashed up recently, we found out in the workshop that the flex tube is leaking and I hope that this is the only reason for it. Since I don’t want to invest as much money in my car (and can), I would like to do as much as possible. 1.At Skandix, a new cracker with flex tube costs about 110€. I trust in the crusher exchange with my father. Only I ask myself, is the end of the flex tube welded to the KAT again, or is there another intended connection? At the welding process, it would then be hapern during self-assembly. 2.The workshop offered to weld a new flex tube for 170€. That seems quite a lot to me, or? 3. Can I determine, without expanding the cracker, whether it might have a crack? In this case, of course, I would choose variant 1. A lot of text, but I hope that I have brought it all over intelligibly.

  • Engine damage Volvo S60 at 99tkm…

    Hello guys! I came to this forum by a friend because I told him about my “problem”. I bought a beautiful S60 in June and was completely satisfied until one day after my service appointment. So the day after the service started to light up the warning light for the oil control. Not constantly but rather like a contact error. After I had checked the oil level and everything was fine, I didn’t think much about it. It glowed, as I said, not always. Well. And now two days ago the oil control started to shine permanently and with the light also came the first “comic” noises from the engine room. After a short phone call with the mechanic I was asked into the workshop. Unfortunately I didn’t get there anymore. After an ever louder surr and knocking, a bang and lots of smoke my ride was about 1Km in front of the workshop to end. So, and now my question… Didn’t let the 5W 30 motor oil recommended by Volvo fill up, but after a more generous 0W 50. Can the service really help me?

  • Purchase advice Volvo V70 D5

    Hello Volvo community, I’m new to this forum, because I’m thinking about getting a Volvo V70. I don’t really know my problem with Volvo. Drive only the highway and more often in trailer operation. The data that the cars should have: – Motor: D5 (185Ps) Automatic – Year of construction: 2006-2007 – not over 70,000km I’ve already tested this car once and am actually satisfied. But that’s usually when you drive a newer car. Will you run a test drive on Thursday and hopefully a little longer this time. My question would be now what are the most outstanding points to look at when buying it? What do you have to pay particular attention to? Are there typical Volvo problems/mängel? Is the decision for this engine the right or should you use the 163Ps variant? Given the “higher” fuel prices, of course, the question was: How much consumption of the car? I’ve read that it’s possible to drive with 7-8ltr. That’s what they told me about my current vehicle and I’s driving with 5,8t it’s what I’s a car.

  • Cup holder V60 Facelift

    Hello all, the current model V60 has horny light rings in the cup holders in the center console. Does anyone have any idea if this can be retrofitted with the previous model?? If so, what does it cost??? Thank you for all the hints!

  • Solid oil exchange interval 15,000km with 2.4D useful?

    I have bought the Volvo V70 MJ 2009 only half a year ago and so far very satisfied with the Ocean Race. This one has the 2.4D with 2400cc and 120kw in it. Only 2 things are not quite satisfactory: The ZV closes the rear left or does not open, probably the magnetic coil is too weak, the pin twitches always something, however, does not jump over. The second is the heavy steering in the stand, whereby only from approx. 1500 rpm-1 uses the steering power support. But that’s not my topic. Now in the information display the message “Sign up for service!” appears. The last oil change was made on 28.08.2015 at 248.400km. Now there are 261,200km on it. That’s a difference of 12.800km. That’s clearly too early! Also in the majority of city traffic. In the engine room is attached a sticker, which the oil quality ACEA A5/B5 with the viscosity SAE 0W-30 is always possible. Now my question is: I can’t a Audi A6 TDI 120kw took the interval to the oil fill up again. But I didn’t the oil fill up too cheaply the oil.