With my scooter (btm bt49qt-20a) the fuse, which hangs on the thin red cable from the battery, burned immediately when the ignition was switched on. As a result, the electronics were completely gone (light, horn, indicators), but the scooter got started and the engine was running. Now I removed this part, because it obviously burned through somehow, and everything works again as it should. I did not bridge the place where it was. Who has an Ahun g what that could be. I assume it’s some kind of resistance (measuring device indicates 6.4 ohms) but for what, even if everything works without it?
Author: 00c12f
-
Lower speed?
No, the Zwiebacksaw doesn’t want to throttle down, it should stay at 25km/h, does not want to stress with the Cheriff’s What bothers me is the high speed (shit automatic) on the straight and mountain down and the associated fuel consumption of around 4 liters/100km. Is there any way to change something on the variomatics? The scooter is also throbbed over electronics, even mountain down I don’t get over the permissible 25km/h. It’s an Alpha Motors Cityleader, Euro4 Injector that according to the importer can not be throttled. And again, I just want to get the speed down, does not want to drive faster! Greeting Mirko
-
Winter GSXR 600 K1 (empty carburettor)
Hello everyone here, I’m new here in the forum and I’m addressing you directly with a question… I bought my GSXR 600 K2 (built in 2002) this summer. Is my first motorcycle. I already made you winter party some time ago (putting, battery out, jacking up, …) but I’ve failed miserably when emptying the carburettor. ?? I found the carburettor, but there’s no trace of the drain screws…. It’s already very late and the ghosts st ride with the question, if this is necessary at all, but I would be interested in where I find the drain screws and how I best proceed to empty the carburetors. Maybe one of you can help me with photos or a description. Thank you already in advance! Friendly greeting, Bernd
-
Battery problems with the Ford Transit year 1992 Who can help me ???
Hello your Ford Transit owner … Now that it gets cold again there are the problems with the old transit year 92 diesel 79 hp … After a radio installation my Ford just did not jump after 4 days of standstill, had to let me tow off. After the expansion of the radio it was then also not better and I started to replace the Lima, the starter and also the battery, but unfortunately the car jumps, now where it gets colder, in the morning almost not and I have the feeling the it has no power for it, although the battery indicates 12,76 volts. If I then managed to move it, it starts again completely without any problems the whole day. I have a bus with 2 batteries, but only one built in … Could it be the one is not sufficient and I first have to get a second and install it so that the power is sufficient ??? Or can it also lie on the air filter, which has certainly never been changed ??? The car is in a very good condition and doesn’t have 50 thousand kilometers down, but this starter problem really robs me of the nerve. Could it be something quite different that I haven’t thought about yet ??? E.g. that I didn’t wire the alternator properly ect. I’m not such an experienced screwdriver, but I would like to help myself, because I need the car soon for a very long tour … Would I be very happy about answers, thank you, Ingolf
-
more safety in road traffic by marking the driven
In order to improve traffic safety, drivers and drivers from 8 points onwards will be identified in the future with drivers at their cars. In this way, other traffic participants can take a special look back. I do not know, however, whether this should also apply to driving school cars. The wheels are red, with a black strip on top and a yellow strip on the bottom and so well visible. 3L
-
Cover TÜV – with red numbers or without license plates?
Hello, I have been dealing with the following fictitious situation for some time: If I had had to say to the TÜV with a car or car trailer in January, then – if I were to go there only now – the next main examination would have been dated to the original month, i.e. January in 2 years, although it is now July. If I would sign off the car or trailer now, and then drive to the TÜV, then I would get full 2 years. Red dealer’s license plate or short-term license plate. What does the situation look like then? I realize that then the badge and the stamp in the engine are missing. I could do that at my registration office or have it glued, right??? Looking forward to your opinions 🙂 Greetings Pinarella
-
The transit-overtaking-mich syndrome…
Today I drove over the motorway at a relatively full motorway at 130km/h (set at cruise speed) and I noticed the “transit-overhaul-mich syndrome” clearly. What is it about? One approaches a usually moderately slower car, usually golf / polo class; hardly one sets one to overhaul “on” – in reality one just drives on with the set speed – the car to overhaul gives gas; one then has two possibilities: either one is If you have overtaken the vehicle – let’s say Seat Leon, Ford Fiesta, Audi A3 – or you slow down and classify yourself at 120km/h behind the vehicle. Hardly a second one is chosen, the vehicle slows you down because it falls back into its original driving speed. I can of course only make assumptions, but I think the behaviour of the drivers is the “transit-overhaul-mich syndrome”: the drivers see that a delivery car overtakes them, what n can’t be at all, because that means they drive too slowly (independent of your speed). So they speed up. If you break off the overtaking manoeuvre as a transit driver, the drivers fall back into their “natural” speed with the syndrome. Unfortunately, this can go so far as to overtake three or four times without really being able to overtake if you don’t speed up to significantly higher speeds. Is that possible for you? Your transit experiences I’d be interested!
-
Seat configuration and other
Hello dear custom driver, I have been reading here for quite a long time, because I am looking for a replacement for my T4, which is still driving optimally (350,000km 16 years old). But I want to know what I do when… and the T5 I will avoid for various reasons, as well as the Vs. I’ve been driving the Custom for a long time and I’m actually quite satisfied – except for the limited leg space for the left foot, the 5cm shorter seat areas(compared to T4), the sharp rail edge e(if the front seats are completely pushed back, the unconvincing dead-angle mirrors (in case of rain/darkness), the roof antenna (low garage annoyance), no sliding windows at the rear (therefore no ventilation insert possible for camping) and the less resilient backs of the rear seats. Well, I’m still waiting for the model “Euroline”, which is supposed to have another rear axle, a larger engine (from the ranger?????) and also automatic and possibly AWD – which would have everything together, if it still remains affordable. Here I have inserted two interesting pictures because of possible new seat configuration at the back. I like the writing climate in this forum very much (helpful, objective and friendly).
-
Ford Transit battery built in 1992 …
Hello Transit Electrician … A question to you. My Ford Transit Built 92, 59 KW Diesel was a so-called catastrophic vehicle, so with a lot of senseless snap, for that he also needed the 2 battery. All the snap is removed, and the cables are removed from the battery … Would it bring anything if I connected the fully charged second battery to the so-called main battery so that the car has more power at the start ? if yes, how strong would the you need And am I right if I assume to connect the second battery with a cable from minus the second battery to minus the main battery and another cable from plus the second to plus the first battery ??? The transit only starts very powerless, although the starter, the Lima and the battery is new and has early over 12 volts voltage. If I leave it standing for 3 days, it does not start at all, although the battery has over 12 volts. Air filter is new, oil is also new …don’t know any more and would like to save me the passage to the workshop, because there is certainly every cable examined and thus costs a lot of coal and in the end they find nothing. I thank you for an answer
-
Problem with guarantee
Hi, After an attempt at the VW forum I try again to find some helpful answers in the hope. I have a big problem with my golf. Since I have unfortunately no overview of my rights at all I have signed up here once, maybe someone can help me. The golf was bought about 10 months ago at a Ford dealer here very close. In addition there was a one-year used car warranty. For a long time I have had problems with switching. The gear is rather tacky and sometimes the fourth gear doesn’t really go in and out. It’s very heavy in general and always scratches a little, so no noise but you feel it doesn’t flood like that. Now I was at a VW car dealership and asked if I would like to look at this and just tell everything with the guarantee that is still running and that I’m afraid that there will be a breakdown of the gearbox 3 months after the warranty. That would be for me the purest Supergau because I urgently need my car for the work and have no money on the high edge Well the workshop master then drove a round with the golf over the yard and said that he does not notice anything special. Since my girlfriend also drives a golf I know that it feels quite different to to switch there than with mine but he said, there is nothing that can be done and I should just take it that way. Maybe you can tell me if I have a chance there It’s not really broken, but you just notice that it’s not okay (that sometimes doesn’t go right in the hall I find the worst). I didn’t want to call first because I’m worried that they’re going to get me off the phone, so I’m trying to get some information. How do you see the chances that something will be done? If I can’t find a workshop that will help me out of the way, I’m really up to it. They’d make money there, too, so I don’t understand.