Hello, this afternoon I pick up my new used TT Quattro, 225 HP BJ 3/2000 with 40TKM from the friendly Audi dealer. Actually a great thing, but: now I read in the forums only something of defective LMM ́s, engine damage, permanent workshop stays…. Is it really that bad??? First save me the used car warranty?? Is there something I should pay attention to at the vehicle transfer? Wandy
Author: 00c12f
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Emergency closure roof
Hello I’ve been driving a 107 for 22 years, and I bought a R230 some time ago The following question concerns me since I’ve been driving open with this car: If the aut. closure of the roof fails: How fast can you close the roof manually? Does that work alone? Does anyone have real experience with it? Does one possibly have a tarpaulin in the trunk for the absolute emergency? Thank you SL-Helge
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R 230, error indicator gear lever in P
Hello together, I recently bought an R230 for hobby. When you open the driver’s door, the indicator comes in the instrument cluster: Put the gear lever in P. It is teeming. Detach the selector lever and the electrical part sideways removed. The thing disassembles. With a brush the board cleaned and reinstalled. Same error still. Platin plugged in in the car and the LED of the fork light barrier for the switching position controlled. Light was there. A used EWM in the network. ordered to try out, unfortunately the parcel driver had no desire to wait today, so EWM not delivered. So to pass the time the EWM disassembled again and controlled the forklight barrier and the magnifying lamp. In a barrier was in the depression of the lamp something different-colored . compressed air taken and carefully blown in. That stood a few fibers out. Carefully pulled out and a whole bushel of dust from it, which had nested in the light cave. M take care of it early and control it. Would be a small victory over the fault devil again. Greetings Micha
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Searching for robust family car to pull caravans with a lot of payload
Hello, since our old Ford Galaxy starts spinning I am looking for a used one up to about 12,000 I have the following requirements: We are a family of four and need Isofix at the rear. I pull our caravan by car and therefore need at least 1600kg trailer load. Since the caravan offers little load I need a lot of space in the car, so it should be a van or bus. at least 150hp air conditioning Very important: Robust, reliable, repair-friendly. can’t let us down if we drive to Austria or Italy. Green badge would be nice. I can mount trailer coupling myself, I leave the type of Krafstoffen out, sure a diesel would be nice here but no duty. I am grateful for every good and serious recommendation.
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Chevrolet Camaro SS 6.2 L V8 built in 2010
Hello everyone, I would like to look at a Chevrolet Camaro SS 6.2 liter V8 with 432 hp on the weekend. Year of construction is 2010. Kilometer he has under 70000 and is a pure very well maintained summer car which has been with the same owner for several years. First of all have general question to all the knowledge and experience with this year of construction? Are there any general “standard problems”? Is the purchase price of 23000 fair? pfer nicht – Original Kats are still available i.e. I will install them – rear silencer unfortunately no longer available. Likewise a software optimization has been carried out, whereby VMax has been lifted – also not registered. What do you say about it? I know, this sounds really like a “bastel car” but as it stands there and also “beloved” has been “beloved” for me this is already worth thinking about. Otherwise this is the first Camaro of the really m.Mng. after absolutely perfek I would get the car as a second car and nice weather car – every year max. 5000 km want to drive with it. Please opinions – recommendations – tips and advice! Thank you people. Sorry if I wrote this in the wrong forum – please excuse me I didn’t know where to write it. Thank you.
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Winter tyres and rims for MB EQE SUV (x294)
Hello together, I’m looking for winter tyres and matching 19-inch rims for my EQE SUV. Unfortunately, I don’t really like the rims offered by Mercedes-Benz, and since the model is still relatively new, there is very little choice on the market. I have contacted several sellers of rims that offer rims with ET values from ET30 to ET45 with TÜV. However, I thought that the ET value should not differ by more than +/- 5 mm from the permissible value. On eBay gi bt it also original Mercedes rims in size 8J x 19 ET38. Wouldn’t that be closer? But should these rims probably be entered in the vehicle papers? MfG
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How to find reasonable tyre dealers/monteur?
After my last tyre dealer screwed up a set of aluminium rims (3 of 4 rims with scratches/damages from the tyre, prints in all rims because the rims were tensioned without protection from the inside) I am looking for a new operation again. Unfortunately, I have already had bad experiences with various companies in the past (conical band screws in ball bundle rims, various damages). I seem here in my surroundings i no one is able to raise a 225/40 R18 or 235/35 R19 tires (no Runflat) accident-free. Also, only the absolute minimum work is done. I deliver 4 brightly clean rims with old tires and not even the adhesive residue of the force weights are removed. I always do the change between summer/winter tires myself, but at the latest when you need new tires you are dependent on someone. How do you choose your tyre dealer, or can much Does anyone recommend what in my region (southern Emsland)? Do the contract workshops do what when it comes to tires?
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Citroen Xantia – Refurbish radio remote control
Hello, I drive a Xantia X2 1.8 16V where unfortunately the remote control of the central locking system no longer works. I changed the battery and tried several times to re-learn the remote control, unfortunately without success. I bought a universal remote control at ebay and wanted to clamp it to the ZV control unit. So I removed the glove compartment, got the control unit out and now I can’t get any further. I quote Xantiarookie from the citforum: These are: On the black plug: Pin 2 and Pin 10 for the turn signals. Pin 13 mass. Pin 1 continuous plus. On the yellow plug: Pin 4 open. Pin 17 close.http://picload.org/thumbnail/iaaiwio/img_20150509_181214.jpg According to the so-called manual of the remote control we have these plugs here. So I need Brown for the turn signals(on Pin2 and Pin10), Red for 12V+(an Pin1) , Black seems to be mass (Pin13). The top 6 cables are explained below:http://picload.org/thumbnail/iaapgai/img_20150509_1812 20.jpg The ZV is negative controlled, so first picture. Non Connect is not needed, so Lock signal comes to pin 4 on the yellow plug, Unlock to pin 17. The third from above with the mass sign then comes together with the Black Mass cable to pin 13 of the black plug? And what does the mass sign on the Unlock signal mean? The fourth from above is not labeled at all. What could that be? Have no idea of electrical engineering and would be happy if someone could help me. . I should still get the soldering done Thank you
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Wheel Doctor 🙁
Dear colleagues, unfortunately this morning was too early in the morning when I wanted to buy cigarettes at the petrol station and underestimated the dimensions of my snow leopard 🙁 Long speech short meaning, “scratched” at the front right along an elevated curb edge (picture still comes) looks “chewed” 🙁 Can something like this be repaired “mal ebend” at the rim doctor? A recommendation in the Ruhr area or room FM/DA? Thanks and greeting Iggi
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Panamera E-Hybride: Turbo S versus Panamera 4
I am currently driving a Mercedes CL 500 with 435hp, 700Nm and 8 cylinders; built in 2011. A very comfortable, classy and individual touring vehicle. Now I am looking for a successor. I hit the Panamera E-Hybride with plug-in, which fascinates me technically. Unfortunately, there is nothing comparable with Mercedes. I was able to make a first test drive with a Panamera Turbo S (8 cylinders). That really knocked me over! Contrary to my expectations and despite wide The suspension comfort is surprisingly good. The noise comfort is unique thanks to the hybrid. And when the engine is switched on, it remains discreet and unobtrusive in the background thanks to the noise & thermal glazing on the motorway at normal tempi and the sports exhaust system switched off. The “normal” acceleration is unobtrusive like the CL and pulled like the rubber band. Just as I want it and prefer as a demanding comfort driver. But the Turba S do As the Panamera 4 E-Hybrid (6 cylinders) of the performance data with 462hp and 700Nm is comparable to my CL, I also asked for a test drive with the Panamera 4. What a disappointment! Although equipped with 19-inch but without air suspension, it drives like a bump. The engine constantly roars at an unpleasantly high frequency and is really very annoying. Far from comfort and sovereignty. Also the acceleration process is not comparable with the Turbo S: hectic, loud and nervous. If the Panamera 4 only runs with the hybrid, it is – apart from more wind noise – comparable to the Turbo S. My question to the experts: is my subjective perception wrong? Or can it be that even the Panamera 4 E-Hybrid (6 cylinders) drives as confidently and comfortably as the Panamera Turbo S (8 cylinders) when ordering the option air suspension and option noise & thermal protection glazing?