MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • different idle speed when it is warm

    Hy here Melbel1! today I don’t want to bother you with copying from the manual!!!! My 750 ut nerves when it’s warm,it always has different speed between off- 500-1200 no matter how gently I turn at the stand gas screw. It only runs with Choke and immediately runs around to 5000 6000. then I play with the Chok then go until I start. Chok pure exploit at the first ampel.if I turn the stand gas screw higher then it hangs away at the gas.I hope you can me help with your experience? Would really be great greetings from Stuttgart

  • Carburettor ultrasonic purifier?

    Moin Moin or say hello to God. My GPZ600r runs a little unruihg when I start you she likes to go out at the lower speed range immediately again…..(choke is drawn) I always play with the gas until she is warm. After that she does not go out anymore. Sometimes however, the rev indicator always moves between 900 and 1500 turns (after approx.10-15min.) So a little restless. After this time she always stays between 1000-1200 . If I will have my Kawa painted again in winter anyway, maybe I should leave the carburetor for ultrasound cleaning? And could that be the problem? So long tours does the little one very well with and the gerlos pass she also packs very well. I think however, she could sometimes take the gas better… (but only trust) Will still have so much fun with the little one…….

  • GPZ 600 does not sprinkle more (click only)

    Hello together, I have the following problem: Since I forgot to adjust the training course regulation screw correctly, my GPZ 600 R BJ 86 got too much petrol and is completely “decomposed” after a short distance.Wouldn’t want to start again. Since I’m not a car driver and young in the motorcycle world, I first dived out the spark plugs (I didn’t know that I didn’t have Sepel the training course regulation screw properly) then it started again one-way-free After about 2 km again the same.Then I found out that it must be the roadway and she was standing about a week before my apartment. I regularly tried to start it. Only the first time before I expanded the roadway, I had Problene. Despite the nomally sufficient jog train she did not want to go on and only started the “click” under the seat. (safe box, ignitor or something). At the last time I pulled Jog right away and then is Then I found out the problem, fixed it and reassembled it. And there was no spark and there was just the click. Again the spark plugs changed but this time it didn’t work out. I didn’t have an explanation what to do. And ask you to help me. Thank you in advance. Greetings younglist

  • Best friend of my brother dies in a motorcycle accident.

    Evening dear community The friend of my brother had a serious motorcycle accident in Bielefeld yesterday. A truck driver had overlooked him. Today he got word a few minutes ago that he died from his injuries. Now a world has broken down for Him and I don’t know how I can help my brother. My brother also drives motorcycle which I think also plays a role. Can someone maybe tell me how to build it now? He is working Is the Commission aware of this?

  • Help!! Car and insurance search for beginners!

    Hello your experts, since I have not found the right information for me from many of your posts – via search function – I write this post. So far I have hardly been interested in the topic “car” and therefore I have almost no idea. I hope that I can find the right answer from you. Questions: 1. Which car – taking into account all the associated costs: Low insurance (type class), tax (D4/EUR4), repair costs, spare parts costs etc. – should I buy? 2. Which insurance (taking into account the “small print….” )? What do you think of the “KFZ insurance (125%) for new drivers” from ADAC (http://www.jungesportal.de/).Do you know similar offers from other insurance companies? 3. Should I search and buy via the internet or on-site at the dealer’s office (can you recommend your good dealer in Düsseldorf and the surrounding area)? 4. If I have chosen a specific car, how – regarding car condition, price negotiation etc. – s Information: 1. Driver’s license since the end of Feb 07, > 27 years old (holder+driver), employee, place of residence: Düsseldorf. 2. The insurance will run over me (no possibility to run over parents or other alternative). 3. I would like to spend about 3,000 – 4,000EUR. 4. The car should not be older than 7 years, gasoline, up to 55KW, as low as possible KM performance. 5. I would drive the car about 2 years and then – after which the SF class hopefully no edriger has been classified – switch to something better. Thank you for your information.

  • Golf bought – warranty / warranty. 2 problems

    Hello. The following problem: I bought a VW Golf 3 Cabrio Bj. 96 on Wednesday from a car dealership (no VW car dealership). With 1 year warranty and an additional 1 year warranty on a house guarantee from the company. I already complained at the test drive that the temperature did not rise to 90 degrees. This should then be fixed. When I picked up the car then, and drove home, the temperature was still at 70 degrees and did not rise any further. itag at VW was here in the village, they found that the thermostat is defective. VW contacted the car dealership and told it and the car dealership takes over 120€ and the rest would have to pay ic hselber (about 30€). Is that OK? Should I accept it that way? I think it is naughty that they are now doing so. Or does the guarantee for it jump in? 2. Problem: The ABS lamp no longer works out. Warranty case or warranty from the car dealership? Thanks already for A few tips!

  • Swindled at the report

    Hello together, have a problem again. I recently bought an accident car. The owner had all-in-one on the car and got his money from the insurance company. I bought the car for the remaining value, which was on the report. I noticed during the disassembly that the car had had a strong front damage once, since the left body frame was extended by two bars so that you can screw the whole front on it. As if I got a copy of the report from the previous owner and approached him about the damage. He only said that he bought the car as an accident car at the time and that he can no longer find the purchase contract to call the Fuscher. At home I looked at the report correctly and noticed that in the section “Pre-damage” this says: “At the inspection, as far as without further investigation is known r, no repaired or unrepaired pre-damages have been detected. As it looks like, the guy didn’t say that the car had an accident before. What would you suggest me to do now? I think I paid too much for the car and the residual value according to the report is no longer true by this discovery. Did the guy cheat his insurance by concealing the pre-damage? Please help me, what should I do now?

  • Percent take over….

    Hello, I have a little problem there. I have been for the last 5 years (18-23) with the Württemberg insurance. My father had fortunately still a contract left. (30% and SF25) The contract ran quite normally on my name, only discount owner was my father. I have now switched to the WGV on 1.1.07. My consultant at the Württembergian could not keep up with this offer – he then told me that with the new insurance application I simply did not keep up with the Last week I received a letter with a reply form from the WGV, in which I then had to specify the discount holder etc. And a form on which my father had to sign that he would assign his percentages to me. Everything no problem Now I called the WGV yesterday and told me that you could not transfer the previous discount to me … they can only count on what I had in the 5jah (Percentage + SF). Is that right!? Why was it possible with the previous insurance without any problems!? Thank you for your answers.. Greeting Felix

  • Peugeot Elyso goes on, turns up and off for a short while.

    Good evening. I turn to you because I just don’t know any more at the Elyso 50. In short, but to the background. The scooter belongs to my father. He bought it again in 2000. At the beginning of 2009 it didn’t run at all. We looked for the mistake but didn’t find it at the time. A few days ago we took the scooter out of the garage and put it on again. At that time the problem was that the scooter didn’t want to start. So today many years later search I already had the suspicion that the CDI was defective. What have we done? – New CDI without immobilizer (An original CDI is almost priceless and is not worth it since the engine is not running at the moment) Would we buy when it is driving again. – New cylinders, pistons, piston rings and seals. – Spark plug – ignition we had changed at the time. However, we removed these and cleaned them. – Changed petrol – Lower pressure pump – Changed ignition cable and plug g with the original CDI it does the same thing as it did then. It doesn’t start. With the new CDI it starts after a longer start, then turns up for about 1 – 2 seconds and then goes out again. Each time the spark plug is wet when I expand it. The float in the carburetor does not hang, it moves as it should. For me it gets too much gasoline, only that was My thought was that the carburettor was broken. But actually there is nothing in there that can break. Nozzles are both free, all holes in the carburettor are also free because compressed air goes through everywhere. The new vacuum pump works, so it does not run through when the engine rests. I’ve already disassembled many different two-strokers and always got there. But here I’m perplexed. On the scooter is really all original, it was not tuned or i So if anyone has a solution, I’m open to anything.

  • TPH complete electronics dead

    Moin, I got a scooter (TPH, Piaggio) a week ago, which has been standing under an outdoor canopy for two to three years. The engine can be easily started via the kickstarter. However, the complete electronics (except for the brake light) is without function (hupe, e-starter, turn signal, dipped light/Fernlight/Standlight, speedometer lighting, tank/oil indicator). After I have disconnected the battery and increased the engine speed, the tank/oil and speedometer indicator lit up. The voltage regulator is also new. At this point, the voltage is also due to the output terminals. A pass test with the multimter on all cables did not result in a cable break. All switches and contacts were disassembled by me, cleaned and processed with contact spray. Also, a contact spray was used for the control of the battery. ll light bulbs have been tested for function. Do I perhaps think too complicated and the solution is quite simple ?