Dear community, I am at the end with my Latin. Users of small Hyundai Atos (our second car) cause us a lot of trouble. Our problem is that he shows the MKL permanently when reading via OBD only the message p0301 and p0304 ignition oscillators are detected. We have then exchanged the following parts: – ignition coil, wire and candles – camshaft sensor – catalyst at the cracker and lower vehicle the complete exhaust system – oil and oil filter – idle control – both Lambdasonden However everything without E rfolg, the MKL always goes out for a short time and in the stationary gas again. There were also pipes checked for leaks -> no leaks available. I would also have suspected the air mass sensor but if I showed this removal it is only implausible to O2 sensor. So I assume that this is in order. In the cylinder 1 the candle is also a little damp if you let it run stand gas. Therefore I have now exchanged the injection nozzles with each other 1 with 2 and 3 with 4 but Error remains on the cylinder 1 and 4. Now I am a bit planless and hope you still have an idea. P.s. Cylinder pressure is 9 bar for all 4 cylinders.Data about the vehicle: – Year of construction 2002 – mileage 81 TKM – air conditioning – engine identification G4HC – 43 KW – 999 ccm Thanks for your help.
Author: 00c12f
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Coupling smells
Hello, ix20 mileage 36000 km. After parking in a narrow parking space over the curb, it smells like burnt clutch lining in the interior. I have already driven many cars of different brands, e.g. up to approx. 180000 km and more with a lot of city traffic. Such odor nuisance never experienced, even nocn never have to replace a clutch. Can the workshop check the clutch during the upcoming inspection and make a statement corresponding to the reality about durability The clutch does what it is supposed to do perfectly, separates it and connects it, the gears can be easily switched, only sometimes it smells. My concern is that after the warranty has expired, the clutch has to be replaced at 100000 km or even more. What financial expense would be expected in the case of the case? Has someone sniffed something similar? Is it just an odor nuisance or is it more behind it? Greeting L.
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Stand light change
In my new i20 I wanted to change the light bulbs for the dipped-beam and the stand light for the White Vision of Philips. Unfortunately I can’t get out the frames of the stand lights. Is there any trick? In the manual it says that you can just pull them out. However, that doesn’t work. However, you can’t use a great force either because of lack of space.
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Pegasus Sky 50/1 – Engine goes off during full drive
Moin venerated community, I come to my problem with my TGB Pegasus Sky 50/1 after a lot of headaches and many split tablets… The scooter was driven as a new one by my boys during the apprenticeship and then time from me to work, then he got problems with pistons and crankshaft and first came into the corner because of lack of time. First of all what has been done so far: engine out, piston and cylinder down, block apart and KW out there s he had a slight blow on the Vario side. I saw that the engine suspension on the other side had a crack, so away with the block half and a few others got me for a Hunni two “almost” complete but more or less disassembled identical Sky 50 and also took one still very good KW and many other little things. Piston I took this: Piston SCORPEX 50ccm Morini AC Suzuki Katana, AP, TGB Bullet Laser Hawk –>The piston naturally Also fitted with an arrow in the direction of the outlet and paid attention to the right seat of the rings in conjunction with the lower additional ring and lubricated with two-stroke oil I have taken this: 50cc replacement cylinder for Pegasus Corona R50X Sky 50 original Maxtuned As a result: the compression is very good, that fits so far well…. New ignition coil, new candle, new CDI…… carburetor taken apart and cleaned…. Tank cleaned… vacuum gasoline tap renewed and tested, petrol runs under pressure As you can already see, the scooter is complete again and runs also —> and now to the problem which has been me since 2 weeks time again when I have time for the devil almost in the madness: it jumps immediately and very well and I drive it then without mucking about 3Km and then the engine goes out during full drive, then I wait 2 minutes, start again by Estart and it runs as if nothing has been And then the whole thing starts again after the same distance It feels like it’s going through a carburetor filling for me and that’s it then…. But that can’t be, because the fuel is running after it, or the vacuum tap is working and the carburetor is actually working too….. I’m in the end with my Latin… I’m curious now how you see it…! Greetings Kuno
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Peugeot Jetforce turns too high
Hello, I have a problem with my son’s Peugeot Jetforce scooter. The scooter was equipped with an electronic throttle, which has now been removed (45 throttle disc is inside). On the scooter everything is still original, except for a Tecnigas Silent Pro exhaust (the throttle funnel is still inside). My problem is that the scooter with the 45 throttle disc is overturned. If I remove the 45 throttle disc, the speed is optimal. However, it also runs 75 km/h. the scooter is installed, but even with it the scooter overturns. What can I do “legally” so that the scooter with a 45 throttle is not overturned and not too fast? Speed limiter I do not want, since not legally. Someone’s idea ?
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Honda Sh 150 drives into the limiter
Hello Community, My Honda Sh 150 drives according to Tacho exactly 120 km/h, then it goes into the limiter. Also at 9/10 gas. Therefore my questions: 1) knows someone whether that is one km/h limit (electronic?) or a speed limit 2) if speed limit, there is a possibility (other vario, other translation, that it does not run in the limiter? Tuning is meant Only legal means please. 3) you (I) at the vario can actively change what (translation ratio) so that he d he speed lowers and thus also faster than Tacho 120 runs. Some stupid on the highway to overtake a truck and then to be caught up by stuttering.
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Kymco Grand Dink 50 drives only 20 to 30 kmh fast
When I bought my Kymco grand-ding 50 I already noticed on the way home that the scooter became weaker and weaker and partly only 30 before what is from now on always the case. The nice Mr. salesman said it was because he changed the spark plug because the exhaust so smokes I do not know the connection between hen spark plug and exhaust but I don’t think there is any well bought new spark plug and problem was not there then completely new clutch bought with converter problem is still there new Vario weights also replaced still problems I am with my Latin at the end. It could of course also be the carburetor that will not explain the quite loud hissing or clapping out of the vario box Here I uploaded a short video because I somehow on this page can not upload the error message is shown to me only half so I can not see why it does not workLink removed, please upload to a reputable provider. A provider in which you first catch 15 different types of nerve notifications etc. are not serious and also do not help with the error diagnosis. Dynamix MT-Moderation
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Buy AWD 2 or all 4 tyres?
Hello, Since the Mr._Nielsson and the switch selector have strangled the other treat quite quickly without a meaningful title, I ask here again: Do you have to exchange all four tires if the profile is too uneven in order not to accept consequential damage to the distribution gearbox? It is about the following: I deliberately did not buy a BMW 5-wheel (X-Drive) a few years ago, as this was exactly a problem. If the profile depth front axle to rear axle was too large The difference could have been caused by damage to the gearbox. Are such damage also known to the CX5? Small note: I had an accident on my Golf 4, in which a rear tyre was destroyed. When the vehicle was repaired, only one tyre was replaced. The other one still had about 50% profile, I had to pay for it myself. The new tyre was even another manufacturer, as the same manufacturer was not available.
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PHEV Energy consumption (petrol/electricity) of your vehicle
Hi, everybody, I’m going to make a new thread for this because this is going on in the huge general thread otherwise. I hope for a few long-term values of your PHEVs here. I now have nearly the 10,000 kilometers full and draw a line below the total amount. Please don’t get any values from a single original lukewarm ride in the Netherlands here, for example, I can’t start much with that personally. After 9,600 kilometres and 11 months, I am now lying at 5,99 liters of petrol plus 18,01 kWh on 100 kilometers. The values are from the meter of the wallbox and the tank station, so not from the on-board computer The car was not preheated since then the windows were always completely fogged and heating in winter 19 degrees, climate in summer 23 degrees. Usual daily driving profile 25 kilometers to work, mainly rural road and 20 percent city share. At weekend highway, but almost never more than 130 km/h. For my taste a little high the total consumption. Purely electric almost always Bai approx. 35 kwh / 100 kilometers, with petrol operation actually always over 9 liters. Overall I tried to drive mainly electric inside. I am curious how your long-term values look like. Greeting Tom
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G Model trailer load increase
Hello And indeed I have a problem I am looking for someone who has registered a trailer load increase and train load increase with a G model because I can tie anything my TÜV examiner under the wet that it really works because he is very bumpy. Can someone help me there further am already despairing and would be very happy about help!!! MFG jakob