Author: 00c12f

Hello guys, I have had a considerable power loss from 4100 rpm in my convertible for a few days. In addition, an increased idle at approx. 1200 revolutions, very slightly fluctuating. With full load starting from 4100 rotary zal the power in every gear is gone with once and it feels like someone holds on. I want to have it read out in the workshop today, I hope they get it baked. Do I have to pay attention to something? The half-gods in Blaumann don’t always know everything. When I’m idle, I give it back like a gas, it always hits one in between and makes almost a misignition. When I roll with a motor brake it also sounds slightly like a misignition. It doesn’t slam but swells down and you hear what burns wrong or where it doesn’t belong. In addition, I probably have another problem, but I don’t have any approach at all. In the speed window from 110 to 120 the car shakes, you have the feeling slightly from the left This error occurs at constant speed (120) at intervals of about every 4 seconds. So almost 4 seconds of easy shaking > rolls free 4 sec. > Shake > rolls free etc. To the first problem, the power loss, I have already found a few things that I can have tested. However, since I am not so fit myself, I probably have to deal with the most possible causes of error in di But where do I start in order not to burn another pile of money? Audi Cabrio BJ 93 2,3l NG (equipment Kodiak: leather + cover dark blue): – Let the control unit read out, does that work, do I have to consider what? – Check the Lambda probe if necessary, pull it off and try it? – Measure the full load switch? – Change the tap sensor if necessary? – Check the petrol pressure? (petrol pump makes noises) – Test the sieve in the KE, what does it have to do? My petrol pump also makes noises and my tankance I have read in a forum that it could also be the sieve at the petrol pump. Where is it, I can check it myself, expand it and clean it if necessary. The following parts have been renewed in the last 20,000. Timing belts Spark plugs Crammers all form loops KE / suction bridge / idle control etc. actually all air filters / fuel filter exhaust system stainless steel from KAT complete front axle (new ), drives, crossbars, coupling rods, track rods, steering gear, engine bearing, bearing for auxiliary frame, complete cover, interior equipment, brake(sleeps, pistons, saddles, discs, blocks) front and rear, aluminium rims RH 17x 8.5 and 9.5J + tyres 225/245 From the cat to the pre-muffler I have a very small spot, behind the connecting clamp (shrink for rejuvenation), where it sniffs out very easily. (approx. 3mm wide and 1cm long = very slightly black) I wanted to have it welded now, But that can’t be the reason. I ask for your support and a few tips on how to best proceed, especially in what order.

I am currently one of the people who niggardly and save and keep the old Au(to)dis alive, simply because they would certainly bring you from A to B and waste your resources if you scrapped them. BUT: I recently talked to Audi experts who, for example, have older and gather and even say that the cars will not drive any more sooner or later, because there are no spare parts for it! What do you want to do? Is the market going to be alive? Will there be replicas or reproduction? (I’m not talking about China scrap now!!!) So for example starters, Limas, control units, electrics in general, brake parts etc. If I just look at my convertible, it looks like out of the shop with 100 km on the clock. Sooner or later I also need e-parts for it. Or my 2.8 he Quttro A 4. That’s pure quality in terms of power and performance. early hell machines that cost around 90,000 DM!!! That’s not what you give up. And, I want to say, these cars are not held together with sheets that you install, no, they are so massive and good, nothing rusts. In German, if you care properly, a car can easily hold for 30 years. Gear and engine can be repaired cheaply. So, now it’s her turn. Or will the industry address and reproduce exactly the customers, e.g. the Bosch “Valeo, and how you all are called, simply because they know that there are still people who cherish and care for their sweethearts and who are sooner or later also customers. It can not come so far on the streets, that because of this hot existence-destroying scrapping premium only new cars roll around. It also does not everyone have the money to put for a decent car every 5 – 9 years 80,000 DM on the table. I speak consciously of DM because some do not know what means Euro and me If you buy a golf or Audi A 3 for 45,000 euros, you mean to put a bargain in the garage. I can only shake my head and buy a SL or Audi, which is older and saves the rest. So, now it’s your turn!

Hello to each other, as described above I would have asked some questions about the complete exhaust system, i.e. from the front to the back (hosen tube to ESD). since my hosen tube and my kat have given up the spirit after 19 years, I would now like to have such an installation. now to my questions I have put together something but would like to catch up with a 2nd or 3th 4th etc. if everything would fit together at all, i.e. connections of the respective parts. hosenrohr: http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI. dll?… Kat: http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?… or: http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?… Group A: http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?… on the internet page of www.DTS.de is described that the group A system only has connection to series so I guess Kat or? what if I have this renkat of magnaflow fits then this group a in connection with the kat? have no desire to fetch with n series kat (is also too expensive in contrast) to magnaflow) . which of the two kat’s now connects the hosen tube and the group a? the group a has a 63.5mm pipe diameter. does that have to do with the connection diameter of the kat’s? would be helpful to answer many as I need this complete exhaust system intruder because so you can no longer drive around, the roars just give at the gas. thank you mfg