Author: 00c12f

Well, bought from a good friend for almost nothing. Would be a nice project to straighten up again, which is again completely exhausted anyway. So. It is about two Recaro Ergomed Ausf. D with fabric cover, a seat for left, a seat for right. – height, back and back manually adjustable – lordosis and side panels electric adjustable – seat heating – air conditioning package – incl the matching consoles for my ride the driver’s seat is, of course, properly rocked down. The sidewalls of seat cushions and backrest are torn open and there is a lot of foam missing. The passenger seat is, as always, in impeccable condition. Now my questions: – Is there possibly somewhere on the Internet or somewhere else in explosion drawings or a part catalog? (google search for foam parts is a bit difficult without an exact number) – maybe you can see so also how the seats are assembled or how I can disassemble them? (Original Audi seats, for example, are a lot provided with plastic pins in the claddings) – a connection plan (safeguard) and an operating instruction would not be bad. I have found the original black cover fabric before. Registration should be no problem, KBA number is also on both seats, my examiner always looks up if he wants to know something. So maybe a Recarof looks at it. Achmann this post.

Hello to each other, I have tortured the Internet, but I didn’t really find it. It’s about the import of a Swiss vehicle to Germany. It’s a classic car (33 years old) originally from Germany (Mercedes). I know that I have to tax or customs the car. It’s either 19% EUSt or 7% inch if the car is recognized as a classic car. So far so clear. This information is actually everywhere. But what now? Mostly becomes on “professionally” ” Importers/brokers are expelled, but is this so difficult to carry out themselves? Planned border crossing is Kreuzlingen/Konstanz on the A7/B33. For my understanding, I use the ATLAS page for an Internet customs declaration and fill it out as far as possible and use the tariff number 9705 for vintage cars. Actually also clear. But what do I have to do on the Swiss side? Is there anything for the export? Export registration marks at the office in Switzerland should, however, not be a problem, that is on the en I wanted to get a confirmation from the TÜV that the vehicle will most probably receive an H-mark in order to provide an argument for the tariff number.

Good morning dear municipality, I have a question regarding the A: General regulations B: Registration or non-approval possibilities of an own underrun protection. Here is a sketch. The bright colours serve only for identification. The underrun protection replaces part of the original bumper but lies in driving direction HINTER of the bumper and the impact plate behind the bumper. It also replaces the standard plastic underbody under the engine/gear box. bt neither protruding nor pointed edges. The partly cut off original push rod is stabilized by screwing in the impact plate, if necessary (red dots on the picture) Question A: does something like this have to be checked/entered at all? Question B: if something like this has to be removed/entered? What does it cost me? Don’t misunderstand. I don’t want to be “BOOKED ON EVERYONE, I don’t know where it is but it’s SO” sayings. d here asked. It is about a clean manual work. I will still contact the TÜV itself in due course. Nevertheless, I am interested in the opinion of the TÜV experienced and knowledgeable here in the forum. Here is a sketch of the whole.

Hello to each other, I used to drive a Yaris XP9 1.33 VVTi suction cup, meanwhile switched to a Fabia 3 1L TSI. The car is very quiet even in the low speed range. I seem to be able to drive easily in the 4th gear at Tempomat 43 and in the 5th at 53 with approx. 1200 rpm with relatively flat road up to very easy ascent. My Yaris would have been buzzing like crazy with the speed at that time. Can of course also be due to the today’s low mileage. , Is it healthy to drive the engine like this or should I rather go down a gear to 1500-1600 rpm? Of course I don’t always drive like this, once a week I’m also on the highway. Thanks for your informed opinion.

Hello to the experts, sometimes a – quite general – question with regard to the engine oil (except Longlife oils) (the search could not really help me in answering my question) So – especially with the oil change interval you should be quite precise or strictly according to manufacturer regulation. Especially within the warranty (does not apply to me however!) It also says again and again, that especially few drivers more precisely on the prescribed Interval But what if a vehicle just stands for a very long period of time – without starting it between times (or at most every 2 months to shunt maybe) – that should be rather harmful for all components anyway. I can say that I can “drive” one and the same engine oil over 5-6 years or even more? Hazards will be as good as not. Oil is not exactly cheap and it is all 12 months if it is not used. ate (as with Ford for example) to change… well. And yes, I know, an engine damage is even more expensive… Oh yes: The vehicle should not be sold and will probably be driven again after changing the job. As soon as the car is driven more and more regularly, I would of course have a change carried out before!! I just want to hear/read your opinion about it … Thank you in advance