Author: 00c12f

Hello, have bought us 2 weeks ago a b1000 of 81 ( 353 engine) the problem is, the engine is in my opinion fixed! it can not be turned and the starter tries to start it in vain. it is the 353 engine 3 cylinders, 2-stroke…what can you do there? I already flushed the cylinders with WD40

Hello, a friend of mine and I myself have had very bad experiences with the TÜV regarding chassis number in the last two months, we both did not get the badge for our classic cars, my buddy, because the number was not hit in the car but only on a sheet metal plate. With my old car, the gentleman in the coat did not find the chassis number at all, a look into the operating instructions helped him then. But on the small riveted sign, the last digit is strangely missing, which was taken by the friendly one as an opportunity to deny me the badge, he said that I was going to have trouble with a police check. I have never seen the police check the chassis number during a check. Besides, I received the badge from the same examiner already in 2011 and 2009, he apparently didn’t care about the number. Then I asked, If you want me to do that, the answer is: first use the cardboard letter to determine whether the last digit is there or not and then come over again. But that’s exactly what I won’t do! After exactly 35 years of vehicle owners, mostly of several at the same time, and estimated 25 main investigations exclusively at the TÜV, I will go to the Dekra or the GTÜ in the future.

Does anyone have experience with RapidPrototyping techniques for the production of vintage car spare parts ? So gears, housing parts, small parts … .etc ? made of plastic or metal. There are now enough procedures to produce individual pieces. It should be possible to use it in oldie restorations, or ? Let’s not forget the prices, I would be interested in the process and the possibilities. Above all contact addresses of companies that offer something like this for private people and in d For the readers who can’t do anything with the term: RapidPrototyping means that single pieces can be produced immediately without casting moulds…etc. For example, plastic parts are made of UV hardened synthetic resin by means of 3D laser exposure, or metal powder is melted into solid metal by laser. This results in finished and usable parts. A 3D printer. Advantage: Prototypes can thus be produced without complex mould construction often with full function since also loadable parts can be produced. Cheaper and faster than the classic mould making. Disadvantage: Expensive (probably) for prvat users, only for single pieces and small series. The latter is just right for US 🙂 I am missing e.g. nylon gears from an electric seat adjustment. The procurement from USA for this part is lengthy and not cheap. The part simply to replicate on the computer. The problem is of course Among other things, you have to create a 3D model of the workpiece on the computer. This is not possible for beginners.

Hello Talker, I was made aware by a forum member of a product, which is added to the oil, a kind of ceramic coating in the engine block. I can still remember older advertising shows, in which the guys also used such a product or similar and partly had machines run without oil and water… well.. Advertising just 🙂 I got the broth for my oldie (70s Mustang Coupe V8), but wanted to get ahead ask again if someone has had experiences with it and if so which one. The product is called Ceram-Flow and comes in a small (estimated 250-300 ml) plastic bottle WITHOUT instruction manual. So if someone has experience with this or similar products – please report.