Hello, I have been driving a MB r129 500SL (1992) for about 4 years and have had the car completely restored (underfloor, engine, paint and leather equipment). Now the exhaust line leaves me in the lurch. The catalyst has given up the spirit and I have got several catalysts on the “after-market” and no one has held out for more than 50 km (the game now lasted 3 times and now it is enough). I need according to MB parts catalog following KAT 1294900319. Now my 2 Questions: 1. there are different parts numbers for the 500SL, which according to different sources should also fit: among others 1294901314 or 1294901414. does anyone know if there is actually a difference in the 500 series pre-mop? 2. Since there is no longer the catalyst at Mercedes, what recommendations can you give me for a KAT production? I had always read something from a Mr. Fischer from Bad Tölz in another chat?!? Thank you for your comments and Inpu ts. Best regards Michael
Author: 00c12f
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Lead battery Regenerating, Waiting, Revitalizing
Hello together, I know there are various topics. Maybe someone still wants to discuss it again or again or to give help. After she let me down yesterday morning at 1°C, my motorcycle battery wanted to bring something to the front. I read it into the matter today the whole day. In my case this is a 12V/12Ah motorcycle lead battery about 2-3 years old and becomes 3/4 of the year 2x daily for 10km but should be generally reverberated. Well, how is it best to do this? First of all, I got an acid lifter and battery acid for a precaution, of which. I still have water. The battery now hangs with 300mA on the low-cost charger. Before charging directly after driving I measured the voltage, this was at 13,8V which really surprised me. Level corrected and off to the charger. Let’s see what I measured when it is “fully” charged. My questions or instructions skusion basis is based on the following statement from Wikipedia: “The acid density at the same time represents a measure of the state of charge. It is about 1.28 g/cm3 with full accumulator (100% charge) and 1,10 g/cm3 with unloaded accumulator (discharge > 100 %, deep discharge!) ” With corresponding graphic:charging state of a battery over idle voltage 1. If according to graphic 100% charge state are reached at 12.7V how can I measure my battery 13.6V voltage? 00% charge state? 2. If battery acid is max 1.28g/cm3 how can it reach over 100%? Shouldn’t the acid concentration have to rise to over 1.28 theoretically? 3. Can I assume that an internal cuz circuit of a cell has not occurred during the voltage measurement (approx.2V per cell)? Since the voltage alone is not a statement for an intact battery, but rather the capacity is characterized by a persistent starter battery I must probably look in the “full” charged state whether and how quickly the voltage decreases or collapses under a defined load. To do this, I would take one or two H4 light bulbs and measure how long it takes until the voltage has dropped to 10,5V. Further considerations after I have done this and not to make the contribution any longer.
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Why is the car not equipped with a slat coupling?
Why is the car not equipped with a slat coupling? More slats = More power transfer possible. Why such a cheap single clutch?
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Automatic transducer – Which running performance did you achieve without interference?
Hi, since the automatic transmissions are often attributed to a lower service life and a greater maintenance effort than manual gears, I would be interested to know which running performance you have achieved in practice with automatic converters with regular maintenance (ATF change, if necessary) without major repairs. Therefore, I have chosen the automatic converter system, because it is by far the oldest and most sophisticated automatic transmission system. In this way, it also affects the service life compared to other automatic transmission systems such as DSG or stepless variomatics.
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Clacking from the ventilation and changing air flow rate
It already started last week that the reaction of the air flow to the turning a adjusting button failed to behave, respectively, remained, i.e. ventilation turned up full pull and there was a lukewarm air. No matter whether the climate was on or off. Today then similar, or there was a delayed reaction to the turning on the wheel and from time to time such a unique clapping from the front, but also from the back. The “once-cracking” I repeated so every 10-30 seconds a few times over about 2-3 minutes. Then it stopped, I then closed my iCarsoft to the OBD and at the menu item climate/ventilation there was an error: “Component M2 / 16 /Actuator for left and right defrosting flap) is stiff or blocked.” Ok, now I know well what has cracked. But: does this stop by itself or is this the beginning of the end and I soon need a new ventilation box for my 270cdi? And when I was there, there was also a menu punk. t “ESM – Electronic Selector Mode”. I found an error message below: “Short circuit of the backlight component after Plus.” What can that be? Groetjes Carsten
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407 Coupe V6 3.0l petrol engine, engine problems
Hello guys, I’m new here and I wanted to describe my problem right away. I drive a 407 Coupe 3.0L petrol engine, built in 2006, 108,000 km down. For some time now the engine has been making a loud, metallic noise when the engine is cold. When I start the engine you hear these sounds for 2-3 seconds and then it’s gone. When I put the engine out again and start again, the noise is no longer there. Only when I start the car again in such an hour, it makes us feel r the noise. When driving everything is ok. No power loss or anything else. My buddy is a car’ler and said that the hydro shocks should be. We then changed all 24 pieces, which was not cheap (á 24,95 EUR), but the noise did not disappear. Then he possibly meant the oil pump. But it was not. Then we checked the tensioning rollers of the belt, but it fits everything. And now he stands on the hose and doesn’t know what that can be. The problem k And until the next start we have to wait about an hour until the sound comes back. Before I go to my friend and keep many Euros out of the window, I wanted to hear your opinion or if you already know the problem or one of you already had the problem or what that can be. Thank you already in advance.
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Good bid or keep looking?
Hi, I currently have a very good offer for a 2014er (Facelift) 508 with the 2l 150ps machine. The car has only Active equipment, but also LED headlights, head-up display, EPH V/H and a camera at the back. There are a few small paint works to be done (only scratches/stones, nothing wild) which is done by PSA Berlin cost-free, as well is a general preparation, a large inspection and new Tüv as well as 12months warranty included in the price n. If I use all-weather tyres via the dealer, I don’t pay for it. I’m indiscriminate because I would have to ski from Frankfurt to Berlin for the vehicle that I only know from pictures (autoscout and mail contact), but still save almost 1000€ compared to models from here.What do you think? https://www.autoscout24.de/…/…882c1a87-a1bc-45ee-a98b-17cd6eaf5528
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Peugeot 607 2.2 hdi Chiptuning/Emergency
hello, yesterday with one of the in this chip tuning is very good by recommendation I got to know him, my 607 2.2hdi automatic chipped, test drive immediately great pull and response but not maximum so something reasonable but nevertheless noticeable. The problem on the highway where I wanted to speed up illuminated engine control light/environmental protection system for the engine defective emergency program, then continued driving without power immediately parked after 15 minutes I started, Mo however, power is almost normal. Chiptuner then looked at the car error read out and is of the opinion that the pressure regulator on the Bosch high pressure pump is responsible. Since he should have the fuel pressure minimally increased /should not go into the emergency run. I should change that then everything is again good, because I also start problems from time to time but every day he said very convinced that it is the fuel pressure regulator. The small piece is so expensive 120€ :-)What I don’t understand is driving the car and speeding up in original condition, although the serial output is very sluggish, why does it now problem either this part works or not or is there an age phenomenon so that it does not meet the pressure?????
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Peugeot 407 HDi 2.7 – Engine damage?!
Good evening together, yesterday I was on the highway with my 407 2.7. The whole thing was relatively fast, because I had to notice an urgent appointment and was late. But I drove the engine – as always – warm, about 10-15 km before I gave gas. When I had about 220 on it, I suddenly noticed how the car got slow by itself, the whole thing accompanied by a constantly increasing “rasseln”. Of course I immediately went off the gas and braked down, abe It seems that it was already too late. Then I got about half a kilometer further, then suddenly the engine completely quit the service. It was quite a shock, because suddenly servo support and brake power amplifiers have failed. But had luck here, because there was a rest place right in front of me and I still managed to “roll out” there. Directly afterwards I tried to start the engine again, which of course did not work. I had to wait about 3 hours for a tow truck to get to the next workshop, my car is now standing there, but they didn’t have time to look at it yet. I am aware that it is difficult to make a remote diagnosis, but I am curious about what this will be. I am not an expert myself, but would spontaneously tap on a plunger eater because of the “symptoms” that occurred (I once did). I would be interested in the opinion of the experts here or how the chances are to repair something like that, or if that is possible at all. Thank you very much for the answers. Andreas
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PEUGEOT 607 2.2Hdi Automatic 2004 ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION SYSTEM for the engine defective
Hello dear friends, have bought me a Peugeot 607 2.2Hdi bj.2004 according to the owner he emptied the Dpf but did not program anything moderately just for preliminary information, the car is currently in emergency engine control light lights no power, and on the Navi display comes the message “environmental protection system for the engine defective ” according to the previous owner and Peugeot workshop it is the pump in the additive tank and have suggested to replace the tank. This error was also before he got the DPF off Empty!!! I read out today with Delphi diagnostic device it really comes error with additive and an unknown error code see the picture all errors are visible. P0606 ECU faulty (microprocessor) 20021 unknown lazy code, P1435 additive system malfunction P1442 additive ECU and as last P0380 – circuit additional heating, short circuit at the plus pole is this really by you professionals here or the people who know well clearly the additive tank with pump? and what say t You can also disable this function additive system or should you keep it better,why? What do you say to “empty DPF mechanically” but to reprogram or adapt without a control unit????? Ask for your help is very desperate and doesn’t want to be done wrong.