Hello, I had hoped to be able to answer my question through the search function, but rather caused more confusion, since I have now read quite contradictory statements.The following: I need a lot of transport space for a move, now the car has a trailer coupling from my father, and I fortunately have the BE appearance.The training is now a little bit since, so I am not sure about the allowed weight.Car data: F.2: 1880kg (total weight) O.1: 12 00kg (max train load with braked trailer) G: 1357kg (empty weight car) So far so good, So how much can I really charge? Let’s assume from a trailer with 300kg of unladen weight. Then I am at: 1880kg – 1357kg = 523kg (additionally loadable weight of the car) 523kg – 300kg = 223kg + 70kg = 293kg (allowed load weight with trailer) 292kg + 300kg are less than the allowed 1200kg, so fully ok. So can in the crew max 293kg? That’s about 200kg of actual load (minus) That would be really a little bit. Do I have a mistake in thinking? Is it easier and I don’t have to assume the total weight, but only the suspension weight (braked there). That would be 1200kg – 300kg = 900kg. That would be easy enough thanks and LG
Author: 00c12f
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Interruption of electricity overnight
Almost every day when I get into the car I have to set the clock again, because for a short time the power has failed. Why is that? The battery is fully one of Bosch has cost 200e. I used to never have the problem. It’s only been a few weeks now and it’s annoying because it also erases the driven kilometers. Now I bought such a battery pole protective spray color blue and thus sprayed in the contacts. But it didn’t do anything. What can that be?
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Megane TCe 180 Coupe Experiences Wanted
Good morning together, for a friend we are looking for a semi-motorized compact car up to max. 7500/8000€. The decision is basically stuck with the Renault Megane TCe 180 Coupe. Will run out on one of the first models, i.e. BJ 2009, with hopefully max. 100,000. Can someone say something about the weaknesses? What must be paid special attention? In my view, you will not find so much information about the car, why ever. be, is that the coupling should be a weak point. Of course, would be unsightly if it actually affected all models, as a repair would simply become costly. The purchase is only planned for the spring. I have selected an example, what the car could look like then:http://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… I thank you for every tip.
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Swamp blow when you hook in again – clutch or something else
Hello, For some time now, when I switch the gears e.g. into the 2 gears, when I let the clutch pedal come back, so plug in, a dull blow. Strangely, the most in the 2.,3. and 4th gears in the 5th gear not, as well as when starting in the 1st gear. If I give abruptly gas, then there is also this blow. If I do the coupling quite carefully then I hardly make it at all. Also, the shift stick moves extremely, but as I read I don’t know if there’s a clutch defect or something worse. Drive shaft, bearing or something. Who can give me a tip or help me?Thank you. Andreas
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Engine problem in idling and acceleration
Hello Scenic friends, have a problem with my Scenic 1.6l 16v bj 99.Started the problem with a restless run in the stand, the speed commutes between 500 and 1500 revolutions ran but as soon as you have given gas clean and powerful.Now today trip with the family made still quickly refueled, up on the highway and after about 30 km down there it started.Takes gas no longer properly has full power, stutters and pulls not really up.1,2,3 everything the same thing I am then in the 4th gear and the rotation fence reaches 2800 turns also in the 5th gear it feels as if it had full power again.As soon as the speed then after braking, so 5th gear again under 2800 falls it stutters again.Don’t get hot.Spring normally.When it is warm commutes rotationally as already written above, it cools off after a few minutes and Will start it goes off in the standing gas until it is warm again you have to hold gas.Who knows the problem or knows what the lead is ns can be.Hab bought the car first,is already the third I have, but did not have the problem yet. I really appreciate about every help.Hoffe described it well. I’m new here I should have made a mistake,please have a look,because in order to find my way around here I need almost a Dr. title. Thanks in advance.Gruss Chris
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Golf 7 GTI Financing – Can I afford it?
Hello, I have been playing for a long time with the idea to buy a new car, especially the Golf 7 GTI. The vehicles interesting for me have running performance around the 60-70t. KM and are built in 2017 and newer. I would not pay the purchase price of approx. 20,000 € at once, but part financing. My planning would be as follows: Purchase price: 20,000 € down payment/sale: 10,000 € remains a difference of 10,000 €, which I would finance. Since I don’t like to be tied for a long time, credit calculators on the Internet spit out a monthly rate of approx. 290€ at 36 months of maturity. My net income is around 1900€. From January 2023 it is 210€ net. With my current income and my way of life I currently have 500€ per month, which I save/invest. I don’t have any other loans at work. I would also like to say that I still have a financial cushion after the deposit, which means that I don’t have any other loans. So I wouldn’t be down to zero. 😉 Now I’m looking forward to your experiences and assessments. Do you think all this is realistic or do I take care of myself? Since it would be my very first financing, I’m rather overcautious here. Finally, I want to add that I can easily carry out the typical maintenance work on the car (brake change, spark plugs, filters, etc.) myself. Thank you in advance! Greetings
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Contract withdrawal in the case of inflation?
Since the used car prices are currently so crazy, I think about ordering a new car. The current car is paid and will probably drive a few km without any problems. Therefore we have no pressure when the new one will be delivered at any time. I set myself up for a delivery time of at least one year (VW dealer spoke earlier of ~ 18 months), but also did not want to wait for nothing. What possibilities does the dealer have to return from the contract to tret We have 10% inflation next year. Are there clauses in the small print that the seller does not have to deliver in “special circumstances”?
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Financing despite ongoing loans?
Moin, short to the initial situation: – married, 2 children, house for rent, both are permanently employed – salary is high enough (€5400 gross) with free reserve after deduction of all costs of currently around €1000 that I could use – current loans: house bank monthly approx. €390 (until the end of 2025), car of my wife monthly €170 (until the end of 2024) – still running car leasing (until May 2023): €160 – Schufa is with me at 97% no negative entries Have now an offer of Skoda for a Kodiaq RS, kos At present, however, the delivery time is about 12 months, so that my down payment could be at 14-16k at the beginning of July 2023. So net income of approx. €36-38k. If I now conclude the purchase/financing agreement, then when will the financing be “valid”? Is everything triggered about 12 months before the delivery date? So income, employment contract, Schufa etc.? Are the two loans and the leasing “too much” u m another financing that would only start in 12 months?
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Vehicle Value Loss
Hello community, I need your help. I need a family car. What I could pull out of my pocket would be in the range 20k. I don’t drive much: 10k a year. The car would be insured in the underground car garage and with all-inclusive. I searched for a long time and even thought about new cars Kia and Co.. In the end I landed at used 3 Series GT, directly from BMW, means: about 30-50 Tkm on the speedometer and BMW warranty. I even had a test drive and find the car great: spacious, fits in my garage and looks nice. The problem is that even the 320i start with ~30k. My wish car, which would be really fun (from the engineization and equipment) would be more 35-38k. Now I think about whether I buy it and (logically) finance it. I have the reasonable rates with the credit with the closing rate. But somehow it seems strange to me: spend the money + pay each month + still remain guilty. On the contrary, one can say that a well equipped r 330i or 340i, which is still fully insured and is in garage, would not cost 0 in 6-8 years (with my mileage still under 150tkm) and possibly even more than my final rate. It can sound stupid to buy something that you can’t pay out of your pocket, but would it be reasonable to buy an older or cheaper car without financing and then get scrap at the end or invest a lot in the repair, I don’t know. So purely financially, abs even from comfort. Need a couple of experiences..
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Partial debt – All-inclusive – Quota scheme
Hello, I have a question: The following situation: I have an accident. Partial debt (sag ma 50 %). I have a comprehensive, but with an SB of 700 euros. There are no further costs than the repair costs incurred. (loss of value ?! possible ?) If I do this now about the comprehensive insurance I pay the SB in the end ? Or not ? In the Inet you can find a lot about quota regulation, only that understands no normal person. I just want to know if I have the SB has to pay or not ? I don’t know if there’s still a difference between Austria and Germany. mfg