I bought a Volvo 245 DL with a b21a engine and 107 ps, first registered in 1978. With the round lights in front. Now I bought the Volvo in the Ebay, forwarding company brings the car to me. As soon as it arrived, it doesn’t jump on. Thought it was just on the Shoke, because we didn’t find the lever. Nja later I found it, pulled it, started it, but still doesn’t jump on. At the beginning he did a couple of explosions but didn’t run, sp Rich he comes a few times but when I release the ignition switch he doesn’t run. After a couple of days he didn’t do anything anymore. No matter if give full throttle, pull Shoke, let go of Shoke at the start, he doesn’t do anything anymore. The freight forwarder said the owner drove the Volvo on the truck. So now he can’t miss it so far. He wrote he has a heated garage and he is standing outside with me and has now constantly around the -4 degrees. As we got him it had about 15 degrees. Mu ss has something to do with the carburetor, SU Hif 6. Control times, ignition time, sparks, fuel supply, battery everything is fine. Spark plugs are always wet after starting. And the compression will certainly not be when the Volvo ran at the previous owner. By the way, Tüv still has 1 1/2 years. I looked in the inet once whether there is something to read or if something is known. But I found nothing and therefore promptly registered here. I know too The carburettor is decomposed, but nothing unusual can be seen. (I also tried to turn on the speed screw if it changes something when starting but no chance). In the float is no gasoline, stand is ok, valve is ok. No nozzle stick is oval and not clogged. Needle is springed and I cannot detect any damage. Oil is also enough in it. I really don’t know any more, thought maybe of a repair kit for the carburettor. Gaser, but maybe some of you guys know the problem, would be nice if someone could help me.
Author: 00c12f
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Volvo 240 GL. is it worth buying?
Hello community, I am a travel Volvo fan and I found a Volvo 240 GL today on mobile.de. Visually it looks relatively good, it could not visit it yet, but optically it still looks relatively good. The description is unfortunately also a bit poor. Here a link to the car. http://suchen.mobile.de/vehicles/details.html?id=187577842 My question is now: is it worth the purchase?
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Radio installation … I’m too stupid :/
Guys, please don’t laugh, but I don’t get my “new” radio installed on it. Basically, I’m afraid that this huge plug block is always in my way. There should be enough space – at least a big void yawns at me but the last 5mm are only possible by pressing and squeezing and on such a thing I react very allergic after a car fire. There are certainly some of you who don’t have the original Opel radio in it anymore and also How did you do that? And I would like to have a tip: on the radio to be installed there is a USB connection (external plate) on it, which leads into a normal USB connector. This connection is about 30cm long and should be laid so that I do not have to drill as much as possible but also get there at any time (to be able to remove the hard disk, for example). The glove compartment would be very chic … there is a possibility that not necessarily Kurt’s level of skills required for implementation? Thank you
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It’s warm in the car…
Hello you love, After I have been driving around for 2-3 weeks without climate cooling I made an appointment for climate maintenance today… Before I go there I wanted to ask myself what I can check before as a lye why it doesn’t get cold in the car. Klimatronic stands on LO and pales full can in AUTO mode and ECO is off… So I know this anyway from my black Limmo and since you had to put on LO position almost gloves in the Ommi… previous owner also the calculation of the last climate maintenance from July 2010… The big safety under the steering wheel has already checked. Achso irwoo I have read once that if too little coolant is in there the compressor does not start at all… Looking forward to your answers… Greetings Max in warm Ommi
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Alfa 147 bought and a few questions about repairs and spare parts
Good evening! I have been the owner of an Alfa 147 (2.0/150 hp/year 05 with 98.000 KM) for a few days and have bought a few upcoming repairs. It squeaks and crunches very badly in the area of the front suspension. In addition a dull metallic noise with uneven roadway and curb drive. Through the many other contributions here I suspect “upper crossbars and coupling rods”. That is called the most. To this my first question: How do the “lower ones” do themselves? Lenker” so that I could possibly exclude them? And is there something against buying NoName crossbars like e.g. here from Ebay?http://www.ebay.de/itm/190670838770?… With the oil I am also unwise. Here I thought of a fully synthetic 5W-40 oil. http://www.ebay.de/…/390236140968?… Does the Alfa 147 get along with it? Currently there is a Castrol 5w/30 in it. My last concern would be the spark plugs. When I saw the prices for NGK platinum candles, I have to get started with a Castrol 5w/30. My last concern would be the spark plugs. 25 euros per piece needed at 8 are not little. Are there alternatives I could choose from here? Look forward to every help and opinion Timo
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Tacho the Infinite History
Moin, after 7 weeks my speedometer is now there, so car off to the dealer for installation. Well in the evening my phone calls me that installation has worked so far, but the immobilizer could not be deactivated, because a permanent error in the fault memory causes problems. -> carre does not drive -> so everything is rebuilt -.- My guess is that I have upgraded the factory radio RCD200 and replaced it with another one. Now he wants to make himself smart at VW, because according to his statement they have knowledge of a possible problem of this kind. There comes really joy … I want to return my old Golf 2 !!!!!! The Fox you can light the scumbag because of me. Ciao Matze P.S. He went after the Vw instruction so it was not because
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Gas handle with start-stop automatic for scooters
Hello together. Lots of text on luxury problem! Yesterday I saw for the first time a scooter with start/stop automatic. That was a cool thing. The little Rex scooter went out at the intersection after 1 to 2 seconds, when the owner then turned on the gas again jumped on the box. Three to four times observed, since I first thought the part only goes out like that… When I understood, the boy immediately overtaken and piloted into a bus stop. The part had been installed by the chairman and som It doesn’t have any info where there is such a thing. I also want to have such a thing. Only I can’t find anything. Does anyone have an idea? What he showed me in the battery compartment was a part that looked like another CDI, unfortunately without a label. Help me… I want to have it! Cool gaming…
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China roller does not start – Feels everything tried
Servus people, I have the following problem I broke my scooter Generic Ride Omen 50 a year ago. At the time it was that I hit the scooter and it first ran normal, then I had to stop at a traffic light, when the speed was reduced by stopping, he suddenly started to rat. When I then gave gas and he had more speed again it was rattling away and he ran normal, this became more and more often at the stop. If I stopped the scooter at the I had to kick him a lot until he was back on. The phenomenon came more and more until I didn’t get it on. I had the cylinder down already, this one is perfectly fine as well as the piston. I also had the Vario cover open and I couldn’t find anything. I also had the spark of ignition and good. The sound that the scooter had made ha My question is whether you know what it might be, because I would like to drive it again. Lg Sean [From engine talk from the topic ‘Roller Generic Ride Omen 50 is no longer going to’.]
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Otello 125 – Battery/Lathe/Standgas Problems
Hello! My scooter, bought 1 year ago at about 4,500 km, had a falling battery power after about half a year. I then replaced the battery with one with more power, but also this has never helped the scooter to full power when starting or in the stand gas. Some questions: I filled the battery with the acid packs, but I filled in only one of two “packs” and then used the battery. The scooter could not start with it, it was hardly Stro In the end I had to recharge the battery every four weeks, because otherwise there was not enough power left to start. Does it destroy the battery if you start the battery with only one acid pack, as happened with me, even if it is later replenished? Today I tested the battery / alternator. The battery is not the same as the battery, despite the charging on the charger. Then I replenished the second pack, after which the scooter could start, but with little power. The values are worrying. With the engine switched off I have about 11.4 volts. Directly when starting it drops to just under 6 volts, only to plug in at idle then to about 11.3 volts. If I lightly gas, it drops to 10.5 volts and rises with increased speed dan to about 12.3 volts. If I let go of the gas, the scooter dies off at about 11.7 volts. However, it does not always die off, if I let it go without giving it gas in idle, it usually stays on. However, e so that I have to rotate properly on the gas train before the tires turn at all, i.e. the speed is in the basement. So what could be defective? Incidentally, the tacho needle does not work. Although the driven rod is still measured (digital), but the tacho needle hardly moves upwards, remains hanging at below 20km/h. Besides, it looks bent?! Has it perhaps bent in the heat? Can I only replace the tacho needle? A visit to the workshop with this problem costs 500 euros.