Author: 00c12f

  • Crossbar screw is stuck. Which tool to pull out.

    The transverse handlebar screw on the Audi A6 is so fixed that it has more than 200 newtonmeters of torque before it goes back again, can be rotated at a maximum of 90° and then starts to become crooked. Unfortunately, I already sunk the thread, and I don’t know which tool I should pull the screw out of the head now. With the Meiselhammer it doesn’t go any further because the angle is not right and also with a huge hammer with 2.5 joules impact force the screw no more millimeters go out t. Drilling doesn’t work either because no access fender blocks the angle. I know all the common methods like pulling out on the thread with the press-air hammer or any expressions, all this can’t be done, I need a tool to pull out

  • Auto dealership repairs damage other than the report says.

    Do not know if it is the right subforum otherwise please postpone. The following facts. Someone drove in to me and I had a small paint damage on the LINK side above the wheel box. Then I went to the car dealership and we ordered an expert. Then I got an expert report as duplicate. 1. In the report left side is damaged and bumper bits is broken. 2. Pre-damage paint damage RIGHT above the wheel box. Since I trek myself a few months ago on a wall The damage to the left was only visible from about 50 cm. The damage to the right itself from 10 meters away. Then I gave the car a few days was called and wanted to pick up the car. I left the car rental key at the info counter and received my key. Then I went out and wanted to see how great they repaired it. The bumper was replaced and painted. Then I wanted to inspect the paint damage to the left. Now the hammer. The damage was still there!! ! Then I went in and a staff member looked at it and compared it with the report. It was embarrassing to him and I got the rental car again for a few days. Then I was allowed to pick up the car again yesterday. So now the paint damage was fixed. Then comes the upper hammer.Before that I see that the paint damage was done !!!!!!!!!!!! I think it was now this at the first repair that the bumper + the damaged right have done. att probably did not read the report but simply saw the right and thought that it must be!!!! Well my questions as there is nothing in the report that the damage right came through the accident but is a pre-damage and I also did not give an order and that simply out of stupidity right repatiert. 1. I see it right that the insurance from the guy who drove me in ONLY get the money that is listed in the report so for pushst Ange + links paint damage? 2. Do I have to fear that the MIR will charge the costs for the repair right / want / can? For which I gave them no order, we didn’t even talk about it.- and it was crystal clear a mistake of those was out of stupidity. 3. Should I even demand a repair proof / proof if I want to sell the car times that I can show that the damage that was there in a repair shop has had repaired? earlier indicated by another auto house times with approx. 250€.

  • Insurance “German Assistance”

    nice insurance..have also let me dazzle in the hope of fast unbureaucratic help.push cake.my gearbox in the a5 is leaking.I lose gear oil–workshop insurance..and of course the rejection because sealings are not taken over.kotz.da you can probably do nothing. although have legal protection but we know that they will wind out there. damage about 1000 euro , since the whole transmission has to be removed. I will also terminate this garbage immediately.has someone similar he experiences?.

  • Consumption EV6 on the motorway

    Hello together, after the first rides with the EV6, the following consumption values on the motorway resulted: Temperature 5 degrees, with cruise control after approx.60 km the consumption values were stable: constant 110 km/h => 21.5 kWh/100 km constant 120 km/h => 22.8 kWh/100 km constant 130 km/h => 26.7 kWh/100 km These are just snapshots, but do you have any comparison values?

  • Responsibility Audit Pre-insurance information for used vehicle purchase or insurance

    Hello! Does anyone of you know who has to check the pre-insurance data for a (used) car purchase including insurance completion?Background: I am independent and have a small company. I bought a demonstration car (with one of the big manufacturers) in mid-2013.In the sales interview a particularly cheap car insurance (with the Volkswagen insurance service) was also completed.Contract condition: must be introduced an exposed SFR minimum of class 1. In the V I should then say whether there is still an exposed SFR – which I did not know of course. Because I did not know that, I should alternatively call any vehicle that is currently insured with some insurance company. Since our employees had always been insured with the HDI in the past, I called him a vehicle that was currently insured with the HDI at that time, which was actively used at that time. (Important: I did not know during the sales interview that an SFR must be free. ss, so that it can be used, and also did not know whether the SFR of the mentioned Fzg. was free) At the end of 2014 the VVD reported that the specified SFR could not be introduced, so I have to pay the 3-fold of the contribution retroactively & in the future. Therefore I looked at the purchase contract again: Under “pre-insurance data” the seller entered under “insurance certificate no.” a fantasia. Under “insurance certificate no. under “SF Kl. liability” SF3 51% and under “SF Kl. allgemeinde: SF 3 47%” On the same page I had also signed.My questions are therefore: 1. Who must check the pre-insurance data for accuracy? 2. Did I seal the correctness with my signature? 3. May the VVD 16 months later inform me that the specified SFR is not transferable, and require three times from me? 4. Who did not behave correctly here: I, since s car dealership, or the VVD? So who needs to behave kulant to find a solution? 5. Is it realistic that the VVD behaves kulant? Thank you for your help!

  • Continuous current in C4 – the solution!

    A damn good solution for a problem that we all have: continuous current in the C4.. Open cover over the fuses driver’s side left: You can see a wire harness coming to the right of the BSI module. There is a 5-6mm thick bright red cable in there – this cable does not end in the BSI but is attached to other cables with fabric tape above it. At the end of the cable sits a grey cable shoe. This red cable comes out in the engine compartment under the fuse box and even lies at +12 V; all of it andings feht under the safety box the fuse to supply this cable with voltage: disconnect battery! Unlock all plugs from the safety module, detach 12 V cable from the safety module, detach brackets at the bottom left and top to lift the safety module up. Below there are some fuses. On the 3rd contact the thick red cable arrives from the interior and is even located at the safety plug. Only a suitable fuse from the friendly supply and permanent current is located inside the C4

  • New to Citroen and purchase decision C4, which HDi ??

    I’ve driven an Audi A6 S-Line 2.0TDi for 4 years now and I’d like to make a reduction now. My attention has fallen on the Citroen C4. Beautiful look, depending on the model super interior and at 2-3 years old an ingenious price-performance ratio. My concerns are now the following: Since I have had very bad experiences with my 2.0TDi, regarding longevity and childhood diseases (cylinder head crack at approx. 90,000, exhaust gas return valve etc…) and i ch is completely new at Citroen (until now only AUDI) now the question: What do I have to pay special attention to with a C4 saloon 1.6HDi/2.0HDi. Is the 1.6HDi sufficient with its 109hp or should it be the 2.0HDi? How does it look with car tax differences, consumption, running culture and response behavior? Are there “children’s diseases” I should pay special attention to with the C4? How is the Citroen-Navi? So what, let’s explain the world of Citroen 🙂 Thank you already !!

  • C4 Alupedale – expensive??

    Hello, dear Citroen- Freaks! I was with my friendly friend today to get some information about the aluminium pedals for footrest and accelerator pedal. I have now gone home with the left footrest because there is no release of Citroen for the accelerator pedal. Since I know that some of you have already retrofitted both pedals: What did you pay for it? I have now paid only for the footrest (part number 942590) 41,71€ incl.. On the way home I then asked myself, o b that is a justified, or better, normal price. Haven’t ripped the packaging open yet so that I can possibly return the stuff. What do you say to that, in my opinion, very high price? Greeting, VTS

  • Wipe water pump or just frozen at C4!?

    Hello C4 municipality, I have a problem with my wiping water pump.And this is not working for some time.I was therefore already with my , who told me that this can be quite frozen at the prevailing temperatures. But now we already have the whole day + temperatures, but it still does not work. What should I do according to your opinion? Should I wait a few more days or immediately to the ? nter the guarantee or do I have to pay for it myself, because it is not a cover? I thank you already in advance for your help! Greeting Robert

  • VW Lupo too high fuel consumption

    Hi guys!! I bought a Lupo a short time ago, and I noticed that the fuel consumption is quite high, for a 1.0l machine. Now my question to you. I changed air filters already, but didn’t do anything. Can this also possibly be that the spark plugs have to be renewed? Or, is that even because of the spark plugs? Please help me further! What could it possibly be? Thanks!