Author: 00c12f

  • End stage for the front system

    Hello Leutz, For some time now I’ve been busy getting better sound in our passat. The first thing that had to be done was soundboards! It was quickly clear that I wanted to have a 3-way system (if already, because already ). Finally it went out to a 2-way system + 1 pair of kick basses. So, long speech, short meaning. I pushed the problem called end stage during the whole doorboard construction in front of me. I need a final stage for the “Eton Pro 160 X” (70W RMS at 4Ω ) and “Phonocar 2/737 Kickbassen” (100W RMS at 4Ω ) It would also be nice if the thing could be combined in a single amplifier. But after my electrotechnical knowledge, with which it is not too far away, that is not possible. If someone has an idea after all, or is just much smarter than me, always get out with it! Oh by the way, since I was pulled over the table by the Etons a bischerl I have NO crossover to it! :-\ If I now still ir Gendeine relevant info forgot, just let me know quickly! For help already thanks MfG Holz

  • Vario cover in the WS not screwed…

    Hello all, I was yesterday in a motorcycle WS and had my Honda Shadow brought to 55 km/h. After about an hour I was allowed to pick up my baby again. The mechanic told me he had also replaced 2 screws that would like to be forgotten because you get so bad. I thought it was nice that he thought about it and at a price of 45€ for the whole action I could not complain. Then the first ride afterwards great thought I was running the thing finally 55km/h un d then a loud click , clack from behind . I thought I had driven over a big stone . Today I saw then what it was . A screw from the Vario cover . First I saw only an oil stain in the garage after then I looked at the scooter and saw that the Vario cover is only fixed with 1 screw and the second only hung in the hole . Incredibly so what do you think has taken the scooter already damage ? When oil leaks out … mfg , Chris

  • Problems with Zip 2 cat

    Hi guys, so I need your help again. My girlfriend bought her Zip 2 cat last summer, but he didn’t run at first. After a few things back and forth and here and there a bit I have the mill, which by the way only 3000 km on the tacho got to run again… However, he never really ran well and only 25. But because I knew that he was throttled – and it is allowed to throttle him again because of the papers I have the stop made – then still went shitty, but for 50 .. So in autumn then came the call I had to pick them up, he would not jump any more – so in short he had a piston clamp … so built the whole box apart and found that the piston really is no longer usable and also the timing belt for the oil pump is torn – so I renewed at the last week end both (and before the oil pump tested – works). So today I would like to he then so far that I threw him – so after eternity he jumped on then and ran – but how could it be otherwise not really good – he turned up quite fast and did not come down anymore … Besides, came from the crankshaft or at least from the direction funny knock / ratter noises .. So I then played at the screw to the right of the carburettor once and well got a bit down I got him – also the knock noises were less – but it is alwaysnoc So my question – how to get rid of the carburetor?! I’m used to only cars and vespas and that’s all soooo simple … What exactly has it to do with the needle at the bottom of the slide (at least I suspect that this round thing is such a thing)? You can hang those through such a ring in different positions – which is the right one? Is there another one to set apart from the screw on the right of the carburetor? Oh yes and what could these Knock / Ratterg or is that normal? (Of course, the Kurbell shaft before the construction of the new cylinder is properly fitted with oil..) So with a Vespa all this sounds different …

  • Yamaha XJ 900 F

    Hello, I want to get the XJ 900 F, BJ so about 1990. Since these mopeds are already a bit old, they often also have the corresponding mileage. I am particularly interested in a relatively cheap model, however with approx. 70,000 km. Is that too much for the XJ? Or is it loosely put away. The nice piece should cost approx. 1,300,-€ incl. case kit/topcase (BJ 92). Otherwise not with anything, so suspension or something. What should I look at especially when testing / looking at? Or gleic h keep your hands off it?

  • Addresses for cylinder construction

    It’s me again, I’m slowly working my way through my current project. Now the engine is on it, I’ve found that a piston ring is crumbling and has cut quite a few quilts into the upper piston edge. think that the part would run with new rings and some files until Katmandu, but still wants to rebuild the cylinder. 1. Which service provider, who also sends, is recommending? 2. Is there the possibility to glue a cooling rib again? 3. Many drill the Stand up and go on M8. Should you do that right away or rather try to freeze them out and get new ones in? 4. How do I measure the piston? Is there enough of a slide lesson? And yes: I send you a side cover picture 😉 LG Usch

  • Air conditioning to the second

    Hello to all, with me now 2 x coolant loss within 3 weeks with unsuccessful leak search until today. After the car was overnight in the workshop for observation in the draining condensate under the passenger door leak agent was detected. Suspect of the workshop is that the evaporator is defective in the interior. I have also come since the failure of the air conditioning a bad smell from the ventilation. Cost of new evaporators are very high, the working time with up to 3, 5 pcs. d. specified. My request: Does someone have a working used evaporator or where do I get a semi cheap new one? I hope for sufficient information, don’t let me hang. With greeting to Alle , Axel

  • today again…

    So slowly I have the impression that my car doesn’t like me anymore 🙁 Just I get into the car on the company premises, engine starts and all lights go off (as always) – only “check engine” burns. So again exited (engine continues running), bonnet up and rough checked….was still available, the engine. What now ? engine runs like it should, on gas and on gasoline, the car drives quite normal, the loader runs, power is available (well, I was a bit ahead of tig, but more than a base charge pressure he already brings). Engine switched off several times and left again – no problem. So what does he want to tell me? I drove home now the 35km (average consumption was ok)… What would you do – to the next Saab workshop (45km) and let me read out errors, or disconnect battery and so delete the error memory ? Does someone have clever suggestions what it could be ? Only observation would be a slightly lower idle – at the estimate I guess about 600 rpm….hm. False air ? hoses all seem to be still there; flashlube container is still full.

  • Idea??

    Dear community, remote diagnostics are always difficult – but maybe someone has an idea? For about 6 months, my 2.3 t (125 KW, approx. 180,000 km) has been accompanied by the sometimes occurring phenomenon that short delays occur during acceleration on a distance of approx. 2800 to 3000 UPM, as if “air” were in the fuel line. Does not pass or happen. No matter what external temperatures. Then rest is again and the engine turns up without any problems. he the “lights”: Missing error messages in the memory: also missing. Before I fall on the alarm again my request here. Greetings Jazzer2004

  • Deer radiator grilled again shaked off

    Hi friends, about 13 months ago I already had the topic once and now again. The grill does not seem to like Speed > 240, although the middle, main grill at that time at my request from the friendly around the corner, was glued in extra strong. Now the warranty for this repair should actually apply, because that part does not hold even two years, surely not be! In a first phone call the Opel master, in the absence of the Saab-Opel master, wanted nothing d To say, except that there’s no way. Who has such a part driving around and what do you think about the issue of warranty? Wolf

  • Check engine again

    A few months ago I read out the illuminated Check Engine lamp from the ADAC and had it deleted. The error message was somehow as precise as the Oracle of Delphi. Then I had some rest. Until about 6 weeks ago. To the Saab-Opel nearby. Also let read out, similar precise error message from Kat to anything else. Since shortly afterwards the 150000 km inspection, wanted/should be looked after. Of course nothing found. In the meantime the 7 years old battery has to give up the mind. New battery bought. If that somehow has to do with this lamp. Just for the info. For a few days this stupid part lights up again! Machine runs smoothly. Consider if I should stick this lamp off, so that it doesn’t always remind me that there is something that shouldn’t be. Mine, that the forge actually somehow, if something serious, should have found that during the inspection. Or I’m a bit helpless. delete memory and wait for tea or what? Greetings on all sides Wolf