Author: 00c12f

Dear community, unfortunately, someone recently rammed the door into my vehicle (~3 years old) and then made a driver’s escape… I got offers from both the free painter and a contract workshop (with own paint shop). Results: 1) The free painter means for ~500€ he would bulge the damage and repaint the door (+co-painting) 2) The friendly guy has given me 2 options: a) For ~700€ the door bulge + repaint (here would be on b) For ~1300€ a new door with painting of the adjacent parts For such a small damage, a new door (2b) seems to me to be a bit exaggerated, but the friendly one said he could guarantee (in a negative sense) that I would see something exactly on the “contour line” after the repair. (light waves in the sheet metal). The free painter sounded much more optimistic. Who now has “right” and how do you estimate the damage? What about a reduction in the value of the vehicle on resale for the two options? I as a buyer would think to myself: No matter if the door is new, I don’t see anything at all. But when adjacent parts are painted, it sounds like more value reduction first, although the result certainly looks best (at 2b). PS: Ic h have a comprehensive, but think about paying for the damage from your own pocket in order not to be regraded. With options 1 and 2a I think that would still be worthwhile, with 2b rather not anymore. Thank you very much to you!

Servus, when driving this morning I ground a metal edge of a transport. My question is now, because I don’t know myself with a car, if I should treat the following paint damage and if so, what would be my best possibilities. I have to say, a damage to the car rather less bothers me, but I have to remember that the fender would then start to rust? The car is a Polo type 9N3. I’ll hang pictures. How much would you estimate the damage? On the transporter we could not detect any damage this morning, as said it was also a bare metal part that I sanded. Thank you for your help!

Hello all, I just have a w109 BJ 72 standing completely naked on a roll frame. Threshold/backplate and spare wheel chuck are newly welded. The car comes from California and has a neat layer of extra fillers and varnish that have to get down. Color is to be 180G – silvergraymetallic. Current offers are at almost 10k€ incl. control what is already a bad house number…but also go on for many hours. Therefore I want to prepare as much as possible I want to do a lot of preparation work myself. First of all, a fundamental question about the underbody and the weld sealing. Everything looks pretty good here. The aim is to paint this one out of true to the original in the vehicle paint, but without metallic effect. My building feeling says with UBS down the seal and rebuild everything in order not to experience any surprises…! What m Some painters would only paint over it because the original rust protection is probably the best. For the escape of almost 2,000€ in the room with dry ice blasts due to the large surfaces. My consideration was to work the surfaces with an exenter sander and only to radiate corners and co….can you recommend here a good grinder in the grit…? Possible with suction because of the grinding dust..? What do I do with the cavities in the longitudinal beams…? Can i ch that somehow also treat and protect..?

Hello guys, I hope I ended up here in the right subforum. I bought my car a month ago, 4 years old 56000 km. The paint looked good, a few small things that the dealer left me away. After 3 weeks and about 800 km I suddenly got quite a few small decoys on the bonnet. The car was not washed yet, was not really dirty and on the highway I did not hear a single stone blow, let alone a stone hail. This is a bit strange and would like to talk to the dealer about it. Can you give me advice on what that can be? Car was mostly in a larger parking lot.

Hello together, after I’m about to work with 2K paint for the first time and two specialist dealers have proven to be extremely incompetent, I try to get my questions answered here. I want to paint from my oldtimer bonnet and doors. Since I can’t afford a service provider and have access to compressor and spray gun, I want to do this now. So I got from Sikken’s Autocryl Pluss MM paint and now have a Question: I have to touch the paint first with hardener (50%) and dilution (30%). How long is the paint then processable? Since I have to paint three parts, which I cannot spray directly in a row for reasons of space, some time will pass in between. And now I am uncertain whether I should mix all the paint immediately, or always small quantities (which, of course, is rather annoying…). Greeting, jo