MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • car buy only what kind of?*help*

    hello to all I’m new here and looking for a advice, regarding car purchase hope I’m in the right “forum” ? I’ve been driving a ford fiesta 96 he now for 8 years, which is carried in 2 months, to grave …. I just don’t know what to buy a new car (price range up to 3500 euros) (financing, have 1000 euros available) I’m looking for a diesel, because gasoline costs have become too expensive… driving at least 10000 km a year… what kind of cars are coming in there? ? to not off he really would go to need also a gasoline …. but very reluctant… is there any good dealers in the room lübeck/hamburg? for answers I would be very grateful

  • Search Medium low-cost but still powerful car 😉

    I’m looking for a car like the Golf 3/4 / Civic with 110 – 120 hp but low insurance rating, because I’m only 20 and therefore only at 100%. A Corrado / CRX would also be very nice but just like the Golf GTI these are very (!) expensive in the insurance. And I would actually rather have a slightly newer car than the Corrado. I also find Alfa quite interesting, but unfortunately I can do it on http: //www.gdv-dl.de/typen.html I don’t find any entries for Alfa, so I don’t know how high they are with the insurance, but I’m afraid they are similar to the ones mentioned. Should a car be about 1000 kg of curb weight. But still no smart or such small. A3 would be the maximum, but this one is a little too heavy for me and also too expensive in the insurance. The price limit is about 5000 €. Rather diesel, as I drive about 20 tkm a year. I know that this thread here is not to 10 0% fits in, but where does it fit in better?! Then I hope you have some tips for me

  • Most reliable car up to EUR 9000

    Moin, I’m looking for a new used car at the moment. Since I don’t want to be in the workshop all the time and I’m absolutely dependent on the car here in the country, reliability is a top priority for me. I’m aware that every car is in the workshop at some point, but I want to minimize the probability that I’m a permanent guest there by choosing a solid model as possible. So far I haven’t left a car with less than 250,000 km, so I’m looking for a solid cross-country skier, with which I can still drive for a few years. Furthermore, every free workshop should get along with the model well, so not too exotic. I drive about 28,000 km a year, mostly rural road and highway. I do not lay down on a certain class. Everything from small cars with 4m length should be ok, gladly bigger. Actually, a diesel would make sense from consumption, however, one often hears that modern diesel are quite susceptible to expensive repairs The budget is about 8000-9000 EUR. Which brands and models would you recommend to me?

  • My first car: Small and reliable?

    Hello MotorTalker and thank you very much for your answers. I am now 30 years old and have finally caught up with my driver’s license. Now, of course, the first car I’m looking for in the small car segment for insurance and maintenance costs. My budget is about € 8.000. My driving profile: – During the week only short distances from and to work (about 10 km of city traffic per trip). – Weekends also sometimes longer distance highway and highway. – Approximately 1x a month long distance from 500km back and forth – Overall I leave from 20-25k a yearMy selection: I thought of small cars like the Skoda Fabia, Opel Corsa or Mitsubishi Space Star (important here are also 5 doors). Low performance I see as less critical, since I am really no lead foot and am completely satisfied with 130 on the highway. Examples:Skoda FabiaMitsubishi Space StarOpel Corsa As an alternative I also found an A3, which probably costs so 40euro more in the insurance, but a Audi A3 conclusion: Overall, it is important to me that the car is running reliably and that I get rid of it after just under 4 years at a decent price. Therefore, I first concentrated on cars with low KM. The Audi is an exception which of course also smiles at me. However, at 8 years he has run significantly older than the alternatives and also significantly more. Well, if there is still more information please follow harken, is my first car purchase and I am grateful for every tip! LG

  • Topic overview in blogs

    There are many blog authors who have already written an incredible number of topics. I find the overview for the reader in the blogs very bad. You can always see the topics in full text, simply all together. If the texts are also very long and provided with many pictures, you quickly lose the overview. Much better would be a representation as in the forums. That means. Only the headline of each topic is represented in a single line, with a “read status star” v It’s only when you click on the topic that opens up like a forum thread. So, in summary, why is the topic overview presented in blogs different than in a forum? For blogs with only one topic, it might be unnecessary, but that could be the choice for the blog author.

  • Introducing heading for castor rights

    Hello, I wanted to ask if it would also be interesting if there is a section where you can post questions in the sense of “Today this happened to me….”. Grad many drivers here could certainly write what of their incidents and that event, with them the lawyer has judged differently. Would certainly be interesting.

  • crazy blog statistics –>there’s a technical explanation for that..??

    Moin has had a phenomenon here that I can’t explain to myself….because 37,000 clicks in one day in my blog is far from what I know as a top value. Normally it’s an average of 6500-7000 clicks per day…if I have a very frequented topic also the double but 37,000 clicks a day with an article that was normally frequented is not explainable to me….in the picture times a chart of the phenomenon. is the coincidence that on this one day so many Klic ks ran and quite correctly or is there a technical reason behind this immense number?? Is pure curiosity….because I can’t quite explain this mfg Andy

  • Santa Fe 2,4 rotary zalometer without function P0320

    Hello together, I’m a little desperate! I’ve read the old articles about this topic. But I’m not a car mechanic and don’t bother the car workshop master anymore. Problem: – In the middle of this year, the motor lamp started to light up Error code 320 Mottorrotzalingang too low – malfunction Error code 122 Droselcap/pedal sensor A signal too small The car drove until now but still normal. When the car started getting misignition, do The ADAC dragged me to the workshop. The Hyundai workshop told me to change the timing belt set (which had to be changed anyway) and have the crankshaft sensor replaced. This was also made 870€ the Aut is driving again, but the rotary zalometer still doesn’t work (looks like a wackler. Sometimes it doesn’t go sometimes) and the Aut is driving again, but the rotary zalometer still doesn’t work (looks like a wackler. Motor light is burning again. The Werstattmeister again leaves the error code : P0320 Motor rotary input to nidrieg (insulation sensor malfunction) No one knows what the isolation sensor should be?? I don’t know how to proceed. The master said he had to disassemble the car now, because it would be either the ECU, cable breakage or bugger or even the amatures defective… He continues to say that no matter what it is, everything always costs about 1000€ to 1500€ and that’s definitely for me Can any of you give me a tip on what to do?

  • Santa Fe questions to connoisseurs

    Hello everyone, so I’ve had an old Santa Fe year 2001 for about half a year. He’s got to the 200tkm down, LPG system and should pull with me off & to horse trailers. So now to the problem: He always made bad in the morning & the speeds waved back & forth. He took gas only after about 1 min. He ran however when he then jumped like a bee. When I drove a 350 km long drive with trailer, he suddenly started to boom strongly in the engine room. From me on the driver’s seat to the right in the Moto rraum. I was at Hyundai the next day, but after hours of waiting nothing came out, except that he is no longer a new car. I spoke to the air mass meter because of the start (I have read here) but the workshop master thought it could, but he doesn’t have to hum and does elsewhere. Engine light burned off and let read out 2 times: mixture to lean and once came air mass meter. He doesn’t buzz in the decoupled state (so step at the clutch) at all. I ssse the clutch again – no matter if in the stand o. when driving then it buzzes in the front right loudly, it is almost a tube. I also wanted to change the ignition coils with my father – have 2 new ones lying, but we do not find these in the engine room – so please short description would be great. So now please laugh at a woman who is interested, but has no idea about it. I courte on your help! Estelle

  • IX35: Is the CRDI 1.7 enough with 116 hp ?

    Hello together, I wanted to order the Hyundai ix35 2.0 GDI petrol with 166 hp. But because of the long delivery time of 3-4-5 (depending on the dealer other statements) it is not possible. There are very good CRDI 1.7 with 116 hp offers which cost almost as much as the 2.0 petrol, especially with EU dealers, which are immediately available. I now confuse the official performance data, the 116PS diesel is apparently with 260 Nm in the acceleration better than the kr Somehow he needs 2 seconds more from 0 to 100. However, I read here in the forum that the 116 hp to 140 kmH is absolutely good and also fun. That would be really enough for us, because we don’t want to race, but just when we started to get there. The 135 hp petroler was tested and in my opinion was just too weak. If someone has experiences with the model compared to the (old) large engine, then it would be a good idea. Nziner?