Hello freak I bought the hifonics atlas final edition and installed it yesterday. this drives my hifonics zeus bx12 dual bandpass in the 2 ohm operation. from the very beginning I was not very excited about the performance, because my previous stage made slightly more steam with the sub. it is a JBL GTS 600, which fired the sub with 2×175 watt RMS @ 4 ohm before. on the way to work I took the atlas a little bit, after about 20 minutes was sc hluß: the thermal overload protection had jumped in. after about 2 minutes the thermo protection had calmed down and I had bass again. I had arrived at the target meanwhile and looked immediately. the part was hot like a stove plate here still something to the connection: supply from battery to amp about 30 cm, cross section 35qmm, everything exactly like with the jbl:http://home.arcor.de/abraserver1/gallery/mai05/web/img_0047.jpg (I have a capacitor, should be retrofitted) vors the amp has only 60A ANL, has to get me a bigger one, but that shouldn’t be the problem here…… where is the problem, is the amp defective? impedance problem I closed out, the zeus has minimum 2x 3,8ohm and the atlas is 1 ohm stable. here are test reports and instructions for the amp and the sub:http://www.audiodesign.de/downloads.htm one is disappointed……
Author: 00c12f
-
Damage to the threshold HU-relevant?
Hello! I would like to hear your assessment of whether an inspector at HU sees a deficiency in such a thing and perhaps even refuses the badge. Specifically, it is about damage on the threshold. See photos. In advance, thank you for your answers!
-
My Omega is sick!
Oh oh, today was a black day for me and my Omega ! Actually everything started well, had an appointment today for the installation of my WEITEC suspension and for the assembly of my new rims, had also looked forward to all this rieisg, but then the fitter approached me, and said: Come have a look… 1. Cross handlebar bushings knocked out 2. Rust at the front traverse 3. Oil loss at the gear 4. Oil loss at the differential 5. Level regulation defective ( now clamped due to FW ) 6. Hand brake rope b damage 7. On the apron at the front, the paint on the decorative strips dissolves everywhere What I had already noticed is that the climate compressor site is not running, the vulture knows why. I will probably talk to my FOH on Wednesday when I give the car for inspection, because I am still in the warranty period. What is surprising, I have noted in the purchase contract a climate maintenance as pre-sale performance, but they did not make any ?? What the FOH says to the rest, kei n plan. Since I dared, I’ve been driving a kangaroo of 15000 KM, and so far I’ve been in the workshop 6 times to get something repaired, now it really pisses me off. What would you say to the FOH, how would you react, or even argue?? Give me some advice!
-
Partially unround idle / cold start problem
Hello all, I’ve got a little city flicker that has a little problem with the idle since recently. It’s an Arosa, Bj 97, 1.0l with 50hp. I’ve got used to the fact that in idle with running air conditioning the idle is a bit “cruppy”. This should be normal given the engine capacity and the power. However, it has a little problem with the idle (whether on or off). Then it fluctuates between about 650 and 850U/min, 800u/min s ind normal. Sometimes after 2-3 amplitudes it has a stable idle, but sometimes it takes almost a minute until it has stabilized again. What can this be with the engine? And by the way: Does someone have the MKB of the engine for me? Thanks in advance
-
Recommended acceptable performance increase 1.8 t in 6k2?
Hello everyone… I’m new here in the seat area of the forum, because it’s a second vehicle and I’m otherwise drifting around in the VW corner Have a question and hope someone can give me a helpful info…. I’ve been driving as a second car for a short time 6k2 as a cupra version with the 1.8t MKB: AQX (156ps) and 156 ps bj 2000 factory side. The following modifications were made to the car: k04 loaders, injection nozzles/air mass meters/gas pump/LK/N75 valve from the audio S3 (1.8t/224 ps), 3 inch stainless steel AGA, downpipe, 100 cells Rennkat, k&n Filter…. The car has now 211 ps, only a reasonable performance increase by chiptuning has not been made and should now follow, since many cars already in the standard condition without these whole hardware have to make changes to this performance… Now to my question: has possibly already done a similar conversion and can report from his experiences on how much ps/nm you can anticipate with these The vehicle now has 186,000 km down, a lot has been renewed and regular service with reasonable oil has been carried out, the engine is running perfectly and is already pressing tremendously … I thank you for your answers Downpipe,100 cell
-
Buying advice Seat Ibiza 1,6l 105PS
Hi guys! Since I leave my Scirocco unfortunately due to a new condominium “must” *joy* I am looking for a cheap car (max. 12,000 €, ~100 ps, not old and not too many km) Since I almost inevitably passed by the Seat Ibiza. (Fabia I don’t like, Polo does not agree the price/performance ratio mMn not / Kia I don’t want any, Ford, Renault & Peugeot are not in question for me) I already realize that he does not forget with a 2.0l 200ps DSG Scirocco Ibiza 6J 1,6l You have to consider the price, I come from Austria and there we have a great NOVA… Can you buy such a careless one? Or should you rather take the ~90 PS versions? Are there extras that I will miss? Or child diseases that I would have to observe while watching/trialing? How “go” the 105PS? Drive mainly city traffic but also more and more often AB. Thanks for the first time!
-
Change track bar at Seat Ibiza 6L
Hey guys. Need some good advice from you who are experienced with the Seat Ibiza 6L 2004. We were a friend criticized that if he steps on the brake from 80 kmH the whole steering wheel trembles. I drove with the car and he is definitely right. I picked up the car at the front and found that just in front left the wheel can move already with the hand as if the track rods head had been totally knocked out. After looking more closely, however, one saw clearly that it was not I’m a mechanic myself, however, in the commercial vehicle sector. And I want to change these track rods with him because I think that’s why the trembling comes. Would you confirm that? And what do I need to change tool to this track rod? Have already the Internet holes but I haven’t found such a 100% answer to my question yet. Some say it’s enough one key the others say br also a tool where it then also depends on the diameter. So I am now also a bit overburdened. However, if I have the parts and the car there I want to change the things and not send the car away again because the tool is missing. Can you surely understand. And that’s why I was thinking here how to do this best with the professionals. I hope someone can help me and say you need this and that and do it like this and like this and the S ache is done. I thank you already in advance. Greetings Sascha