Hi, me and another college are both 19 and 18 and we wanted to get a car for a few months in the winter, our parents have cars that we also use but you have to ride the gently, I hope you understand what I mean. We once thought of getting an old audi 100 or something like that for a few hundred euros, the car should keep even a few thousand km after that the wear is probably scrapped. now my question: what would the insurance give us the registration cost, can help me vlt someone a little further and which dare you would recommend us … the car should already have the 100 ps, no fear I can handle with a lot of performance quite well, papa drives a 740i. thank you already young and girls
Author: 00c12f
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Need Help
Good morning dear community,have there been a question I had had an accident today I was taken the lead, police report is available.I drive a Golf 4 year 2001 the damage to my vehicle is slight, front bumper right paint removals and several small scratches are present as well as the paint from the opposing accident-affected Nissan Micra estimated year of construction is 97.The paint from the Micra at my golf could only theoretically get away with polish. Now my question w As I don’t know how high the damage is or can’t see what happened under the bumper as a layman, and what else the bumper is completely silver in car color.My car is always tip top maintained and has no paint damage.Obviously it looks like a bagatell damage as said only layman and no reviewer. I thank you for every answer Greeting Zit
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55 euro partial cascade possible annually ?
Hi, and this is about a 125 cc scooter in Austria ( yes I know … buhhhhh Roller. Let ma do this outside here before ). One colleague said that he pays the above mentioned amount for it. Can this be possible at all? Total cost insurance = liability + car tax ( from 100 ccm ) + partial cascade so I understood anyway. Car tax is at 125 ccm at least 33 euros a year… less is not possible. Stay 22 euros left for HP and partial cascade. That should be possible ? Have a uf https://verblicker.at search for the cheapest insurance result Helvetia: 40 Euro HP + 33 Euro car tax + 50 Euro TK = 122 Euro The only thing I noticed at durchblicker.at is that the age has no impact on the cost of liability. Did younger people be classified as a vulnerable target group and have to pay more HP? How do I do this and how can I pay so little? P.s Would be nice even if you told me where you are insured since and how much you pays ( ccm please specify then but )
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Incidental damage control How does it work?
Hello, have 1-2 questions in your forum I drove up another car on Friday, the damage is somewhat more expensive afterwards as assumed. Here is the link to my topic in the Audi A4/B5 forum with photos of the accident/damage KLICK . The estimate of the AZ amounts to about 170€, I have agreed 300€ SB in my policy. Now my question or idea, if I say to HUK I want to have the 170€ -300€ SB and -19% VAT. Can I have the money out of it let pay and go to my car self-help workshop to do the very good work and have it repaired there or doesn’t the insurance company participate?
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Insurance of the accident victim unknown
Hello, I was in a confusing situation Saturday someone drove into the fender of my 4 month old car. Situation was this: I on the right track, he left behind me. I had to avoid an obstacle, because of the shock no longer knows what it was. I think an extremely slow turning car. I flashed and looked into the mirror and then saw it just behind me. I thought that he also saw the blinking and pulled over to avoid it. Then he just walked me. Fenders in front left is pressed in, even the bumper is slightly damaged. Nothing else. There is no damage to the accident object (Jeep). He claims, of course, I didn’t blink… Now it’s the case that the road is wide enough for two cars, but has no center mark. It’s a one-way street. In the street it’s extremely often that cars have to be kept in the middle of the road (left and right in second row) and you have to drive them around. For locals: It is Moritzstr. in Wiesbaden. Question is now, who is to blame? It is a statement against statement. So and now the second problem. The accident opponent was Turk. He asked me indirectly to show my driver’s license, but he did not want to show his own. He did not want to leave the insurance card to me, but I had to write it off. I forgot to write off the logo of the insurance. . Now I have Kenzeichen and insurance number, but no insurance. I have his address of course. Besides, I would like to know how to handle the insurance. I have holidays this week, would not need a rental car. But if the insurance takes so long (audience etc. ) then I absolutely need a rental car.
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Don’t hire your own reviewer?
Hello, yesterday it caught me again. Someone wanted to change track and had probably forgotten the shoulder view. The causer was in a hurry and wanted to leave me only a telephone number; however, I insisted on the police recording. This took everything, was helpful in exchange of addresses, made sketches and photos and still gave the telephone numbers of the officials involved. I then called an expert, who so far every accident damage to my Today, the opponent’s insurance called me, which is not at all pleased that I have already commissioned the expert. According to the opponent, only the fender and the turn signal are damaged, such a small damage does not justify an expert. I told the lady on the phone, however, that I can no longer open my door and can be described as only paint damage. Then the expert is probably still right, but they want me I’m not supposed to drive by the car until then. Is everything all right or is something told about the horse?
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Overland vs. highway!?
Hello, I ask myself the question that many people have already asked themselves: The daily work path overland or over the AB?! Why do I ask? -> Because I have bought another vehicle and would like to save fuel, but also to keep the wear as low as possible! To the vehicle: Skoda Octavia Tour/Combi, Bj2009, 1.9tdi PD, Eibach sports suspension The following routes are available: AB: Distance: 55km Average speed 110-130 km/h Constant speed – with good traffic Predominantly uniform road surface Little braking and cornering required Duration: approx. 36-40min U-country: Route: 34-36km depending on the chosen route Average speed 60-90 km/h Strong Changing speed – 5 to 6 towns are to be crossed, sometimes speed 30km/h Road surface partly very uneven or “holprig” Frequent braking and cornering Duration: approx. 32-35min Now the question arises to me: Would it be “calculated” about the highway to I drive by the driveway every day anyway and from my home to the driveway it is about 8km, however, the AB then makes a quite strong bow which then still makes 20km easy, i.e. 40km per day more on the counter! How are your experiences there? I am a quite relaxed AB driver (tempomat pure and good), but always take the Ü-Land course for years because I want to save the kilometers, or is this wrong thought, because the load for motor and driving erk on the AB are “necessary” as the Ü-Land “holper”, kilometers back or forth? hope for informative answers and opinions Many thanks Greetings from Middle Franconia with pictures of the routes (the AB-Route still goes over a federal road on which it is like on an AB)
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Wrong diagnosis of contract workshop KV: 6200,- Euro invoice of free workshop then 400,- €
Once again for the current occasion: Man fills petrol in his diesel (I know more about woman, but here it was the man) Car is towed to the contract workshop and examined there: KV: Total damage of the engine > new engine 6200 Euro (withdrawn since approx. 2000 discount) fortunately a second workshop was commissioned with an examination: Result: cleaning of the fuel system and renewing the filters about 400,- € other case: engine becomes loud, contract workshop after examination: Z Over 200 000 km better scrap the vehicle. Second workshop: Searches for chips, but does not take place; Threads newly used in cylinder head: 390,- € certainly not individual cases, but with technically helpless customers probably often the fate… I can derive from my experience as an electronics technician: If the workshop can only exchange complete units, instead of running detailed troubleshooting, (which is a good fac In my industry for comparison: a defective condensator in a circuit board (power supply, control, module) costs 50 euros at an expensive exchange, the complete circuit board (power supply, control, module) between 150,- to 3000,- € . If the “technician” can not search for the defective condensator, he has to exchange the circuit board (power supply, control, module) … So as a summary one has to say: who knows a workshop with good experts, should be happy appreciate, because this is a privilege that not all customers / people have.
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Brake lines: damage when disassembly of the fitting?
Hello! With an almost 18-year-old vehicle I wanted to change the brake hoses in the rear. I sprayed the screw connections with rust releaser several days before, so that it can work. Nevertheless, I had difficulties in loosening the screw nuts and also easy heating did not bring so much improvement. I moved the brake line key back and forth again, used rust releaser again and again etc.. It seemed to me that the overwound In particular, I had problems solving the screw connection. I then applied some force and finally managed to solve the roll-over nut. However, with the roll-over nut, which I wanted to solve, the brake line also turned a bit with it. Because the brake line is fixed in several places and I also held it, of course, also force on this a This means that the coating is broken / damaged and it seems that the metal in the area of the screw connection could also have twisted a bit. Now I wonder if the respective brake line has been damaged by the deformation or can easily be used further. According to what criteria can you judge that? I have now got the nut relatively common again, so that I can probably tighten it easily. e. Otherwise, the brake line is fine. Only in the area of the nut is this almost blank. What should be lubricated on it if necessary? I ask you for detailed advice. Thank you!
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Negative voltage on headlight cables
Moin, I no longer have a driving beam with my vehicle. The headlights are dark when switching to the driving beam. I measured the cables: passing beam > 12.25 volts driving beam > approx. -8,x volts (MINUS) What can be the reason for this?