Author: 00c12f

Good evening dear community, I have a problem with my 4stroker. Model is AGM GMX 450 one. It started with that when I drove and it went up a mountain (before about 10km without problems ) my scooter from normal 45 km/h to suddenly 30 km/h and continued to fall. The engine gave a stuttering of itself as if he wanted to turn up, but it could not. At home was the first guess of the carburettor. Since I had a new one I just changed it. A Chja, when he had the power loss on the mountain he did not go on any more. With the new carburetor he still did not go on. After eternal search for rum ( even checked the control chain ) and change the spark plug I finally found the error. My spark plug was broken, the spark plug had ignition errors. With a new ignition coil he goes on now I already thought everything palletti . My problem that I have now is: When I give in the stand gas everything goes normal up to about 1/3 I tried to adjust the mixture by carburetor needle, but no matter which notch I put the plate my scooter smokes blue, so too fat. I don’t know anymore. I suspect that the gammlige choke is broken but I don’t have a plan anymore, I hope you can help me. Mfg

Hello everybody, I’m new to the forum. I’m going to be in January 16 and then I want to make my 125 he appearance in spring. I really want an enduro with which you can drive in the forest and also on the road. It should definitely be a 4 clocker. Now I don’t know which machine would be best. I’ve already looked at the Beta RR 125, ajp pr3 enduro 125, Yamaha wr 125 r, Sachs zx 125. Now I wanted to hear your opinions on the machines. I didn’t want to see all of them. spending a lot and presented me with around 2000-3000 euros. Do you have any other suggestions on machines?

Hi, so first of all I think I think I’m hot Marco am 16, I’m about to do the A1 and now I’m wondering which 125s I’m going to get So my favorites are the Yahama Wr125 R and the Mz SX (more the MZ because it’s cheaper ) now I wanted to ask myself a few questions, get opinions and suggestions .. The device must be suitable for terrain ( so that you can not only drive gravel roads but also simple cross tracks, you just get off road on Fel d can shorten the path and do not have to stick to the forest paths but can also get into the wood ) but also times 50km – 150km on the road packing with at least 80 km/h ( because I drive quite often further routes .. ), must be registered as a 2-seater ( if I have to take whom with me ), and it also sometimes survive if I flung in the suff in the side ditch these criteria would meet the MZ all and would also be sprittsparsam – the problem the SuMo Var iante ( MZ SM ) apparently has no terrain suitability and the Enduro ( MZ SX ) seems to slip away very easily on the wet road, which is of course very good if a white is on the back (if I would only take buddies with me of the no problem, the day before yesterday only three of us skinned in the mud because the one thought he can drive phone and smoke at the same time although two people are on the back ^^ ) well, do you have experiences with the MZ? or do you still have g Is it clear (you can’t just insert cork into the pistons ^^ ) but is it cost-effective (and Tüv allowed ) to bring the WR250R electronically to 125 and 15 HP ? A good buddy of mine ( 14 ) has a 50er scooter with a remote control which throttles the to 25 and of course always with it and leaves most of the time open and if bulls would come the just press the button .. thanks for the reply MfG Marco

Moin, I’m in possession of an MZ SM 125 Gangsta BJ. 08. She’s been standing in the garage for about 1 1/2 months now because she had a plate. Battery and everything was connected. I made the plates yesterday and as expected the battery was empty, so I pushed on the box and after a few attempts I drove a piece to charge the battery. Today she then also started quite normal but funnyly the turn signals and the lamp on the speedometer do not work me hr. I’m sure they still worked on my battery charging tour yesterday. What could that be? Light works perfectly normal.

Hello expert moppetschrauber, we want to drive an “open” 50s because of the existing 4s-FS. Of course it would be easiest to buy a 4s. Unfortunately, these have become outrageously expensive. There our consideration is to rebuild an 80s (or even 125s) to a 50s which come then reasonably out of the hooves. Above all also because there is still a manageable offer here. We have not become so clever which models offer themselves, and gera For this reason, we are value-free in terms of manufacturer and type. As an alternative, maybe a 50’s mokick would be to “open”, but the parts are now also expensive, or those of which there was an open one, there are apparently few models suitable for it. At our TÜV I was, but they are stubborn in their statements and above all they want to know clearly a model. Do you have advice (e.g. which models are suitable for this and what to do there)- besides to make the A-FS? n Thanks to wool

Hello, got a Honda Pxr without papers.Was today at the Honda dealer and he said a second letter costing at Honda 160€.That’s definitely too much for me if I think that it doesn’t even cost 50€ at Kreidler.Did the Honda dealer also ask what happens if I drive without it.He didn’t know that exactly but he said the papers were just a proof that the mofa belongs to me.Wanted now questions if I can drive even with a declaration of safety and without P I’m just looking at the safety statement and then I send the papers and I don’t see how to give them 160€.I also wanted to ask what happens if I only have the explanation in one control? Mfg Flo