MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Purchase advice XC90

    Hello dear Moose community! One thing in advance: yes, I have already used the SuFu extensively, only to take the wind out of the sails to some. Since my old 5er is getting on my mind so slowly with his increasing zigzags, I already think about a successor. First a MB was the favorite, the E-Class S211 to be exactly too. But, after my brother put in his E-Class last year over 3T, I came to the XC90, because this was just as family-friendly and probably I already know because of the SuFu, it has to be an FL_model. Automatic is also mandatory for me. I would need your support with the engines, because I know Volvo only from hearsay. A D5 with 185hp would be my favorite. I’m sceptical about PDF, how it can cope with short distances. Since I already had three cars on LPG, a petrol engine would also be in question, if it can be easily retrofitted. Now to my questions: Automatic: How durable is the ese? With oil change and flushing I know, have already done it with my others. From which supplier comes the GT (or Volvo ivy) ? Is this more durable with the petrol engines? (at BMW it’s like this) D5: Topic injectors and turbo? Is there something to consider? Petrol: First I think of the 2.5T and 3.2. Does any of you run such a specimen on LPG? If so, there is something to report about burnt valves or problems with the adjustment of the system ? How much is the consumption? I am grateful to everyone who takes some time and helps me with his advice!

  • double DIN radio for XC90 BJ. 2006

    Hello dear Volvo municipality, I’m looking for a radio replacement for my 2006 XC90. Due to the double DIN solution not many options remain open. For example a Pioneer AVIC-F910BT for approx. 950EURO, or a Kenwood DNX9240BT for proud 1,200 EURO. Who of you already has experiences on this topic and would like to share it here? Thx

  • XC 70 vs V70…… Successor for Audi Quattro?!

    Salu zsamme Some time ago I set my beloved A4 Quattro 1.8T (132kw) against a tunnel entrance with LPG. Before that, I had loved a bit of “more space”…at first thought of an A6.. But somehow I didn’t have any more balls on these built-in boxes(motor room), constant problems with chassis(crossbars) etc…. Is just about the time for something new….other…! I’m just playing with the thought of letting out a V 70 or even an XC 70 myself…. Jed It has its advantages, its weaknesses…and I had hoped to launch a very reasonable controversial debate…. Would be really grateful about every mustard….. What speaks for the V70 What’s wrong with it? XC 70 is the what…are the spare parts much more expensive than for the V70? Which BJ should be avoided? Up to how much km can you buy a Volvo without any problems? What can a good Volvo cost….? Which engine is the most meaningful in terms of performance/consumption..80% Landstr. bz e Autobahn Schweiz – i.e. 120 km /h… bissl Stadt …..Rest Autobahn….CA. 15-20,000 KM /YAR… what are special models that it is worth looking at? Audi had almost full aust. ….. What are things you should absolutely pay attention to when buying it= Checkbook- Sure, but what else? Is there rust? Mechanics? Electronics….. who drives his Volvo on gas.? without problems??? or what is the diesel? Would be really happy… if something comes together here…… in this sense Frankie

  • Error 130 to third party

    Good morning, after swapping the KWS and the NWS I got error 340 and error 130 at least once a day. http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…ch-exchange-kws-and-nws-t3560635.html So I reinstalled the old camshaft sensor – now everything is again like before the start of the exchange orgy, I get sporatic again the error 130 and the MKL goes on. You can then delete the error and it stays away again for up to several days. Slowly I spin because I don’t know how i The FOH here is also perplexed, his statement for 1 1/2 years: “That problem is that the sensors are not completely broken and therefore such a mistake is hard to find! They would have had cases where there were problems with the shielding”. The new as the old KWS seems to work otherwise the error would not be as pronounced as before the repair. Therefore, I leave the new KWS in there now, the error must lie somewhere else. I can do nothing else. How do you check this reliably – I don’t have a CO measuring probe. On the plug of the NWS a plastic snap nose is broken. Can that be the reason? The FOH doesn’t think. Is there a replacement plug for my motor? I sent the faulty new NWS back the process should be handled on guarantee. I therefore still don’t know if I can get another or the money back. I will change the one again anyway, that does not lead to any error. I can only exchange the upper lambda probe. If the cable is too busy I am not going to take the fair, because then the search will be like the pin in the haystack. Even if I find the cable there is for parts of the wire harness exchange? Am not in the ADAC what should I do where should I turn? Is one of you from Upper Franconia who might help me? Many greetings

  • Omega B vibration at the HA

    Hello ! I have an Omega B Caravan , EZ 98 , X25XE with manual transmission and at 50 km/h in the 3rd gear and at 80 km/h in the 4th it vibrates from the rear axle – my feeling to the right. Wheel bearings , axle bearings and hardy disks are obviously in order. Vibrating occurs only at the mentioned speeds and that is very annoying because it vibrates inside and in 70`s zones permanently. 10 km/h over it is gone…. Do you have a tip for me ?

  • my omega has no performance

    hello together, have a big problem with my omega b kombi 3.0 automatic! have renewed the cylinder head seals and the timing belt. motor is back together, runs in empty run very nice (about 500-600 u/min)! even if I raise the speed it turns very nice round! the whole is finished at the moment I insert a direction of travel (R / D). runs now like a bag of nuts!!! when trying to drive it gets worse and worse. I put the automatic transmission back on N or P beko If he’s back in and runs great again! I’ve turned off the error memory. the control unit has filed the following error: FC-144 FC-145 FC-57 FC-16 FC-69 FC-19 FC-21 FC-129 I have no idea, watt is going now! about a tip I would be incredibly grateful! many greetings from köln

  • in places no performance / bird chirping

    Hello and good morning dear Opel friends! Now after a long illness I get back a bit patched together again… I had explained my “bird chirping” then and now I have to realize that it definitely comes from the turbo. Under load the sometimes chirping. Hose and clamp sit but reasonable and tight. On normal country road rides you do not notice the “performance loss” either. But with highway rides when you go on the gas, there comes nothing and in the next moment he marches again, as bitten by a tarantula… Can this lie on the air mass meter? Or is this all a combination of the turbo? Then he really torments himself with high speeds up to 120 or 130 and then is the end?!? In the next moment he goes 230 again?!? Thanks for your help! Greeting Joe

  • Detach/detach the V70 drive shaft at the front left of the gearbox

    If you need quick help from the community, I want to expand the drive shaft at the front left to replace the wheel-side joint. The drive shaft is secured on the gearbox side with a spring ring. ? How is the drive shaft pulled off from the transmission ? without causing any damage. According to VIDA there is a lever tool, which sets behind the joint on the transmission. Is there another possibility for garages screwdrivers ?? With is clear that I can not just pull on the shaft to get them from the It is a Volvo V70, model year 2000 with M56 transmission. Thanks for Info

  • Volvo850 Diagnostic Box Defect

    Hello together! I would like to introduce myself briefly. I am Markus and live in Ostallgäu. Our car, a Volvo 850 2.5 20V 125KW/170PS. Year of manufacture 1994 combi switch. For some time I have been reading with you and must say excellent forum. Super! Now I come to the problem what I have. The thickness stood about 3 months, on the one hand because my wife has a company car and I have been working for a long time abroad. When I started the car last week, he does not run any more and. He didn’t hold the speed at all and the engine went out immediately. The lamp lamp didn’t go out any more. He always let himself start immediately and with a light gas until he was a little warm, he didn’t go out any more. I then first took off the plug from the LMM and sprayed in with contact spray. Cables are no lots also otherwise visible everything is OK. I have read out the error memory Diagnosis box A slot 2 and 6. It of course flashed. Then I have the error gel The Lambda light just doesn’t go off. Today I wanted to go to the bottom of the thing again and notice that the diagnostic box no longer blinks, neither slot 2 nor 6. Hab tried everything. My question, can the box go defective, can you just replace it???? The car has an immobilizer (VDO plug in the amature carrier) What can I do? The engine is not working well in cold condition, goes out because he doesn’t hammer the speed. In warm condition he runs at approx. 1000-1100 u/min, which is much too high. Freu mich über helpfule Reply. Greeting to all.

  • Smart self-fooling !?

    Good morning, I had a little accident with my smart last one (nothing happened, just right at the front the plastic is splintered…) And am now thinking about whether I should give him a new “look”. Would like to foil him, but have no experience in this area at all. Can you possibly help me, and tell me what to pay attention to, where to buy foil and tool for it, and possibly send me a link with instructions? Do you have the search radio yourself? As a foil I thought with me that I would like to use some in carbon optics, only how much I need of it and what else I need to take into account, I don’t know :-/ Thanks already for your help! VG from Düsseldorf Jerorme