Author: 00c12f

  • 451 cdi Glow plug deaths

    Hello together! I have a problem with my 451 cdi, EZ 2011, 54hp. After he started to burn cooling water via the AGR cooler, I removed the cooler, shut down the AGR and have it programmed out of the control unit. To be sure, I have also renewed the cylinder head seal. Since this action, within a few days, one glow candle after the other is goodbye. Externally, they are unharmed, but have an infinite through resistance. Rzensteuergerät delivers about 4 volts and glows up to a water temperature of 50 degrees about three minutes after. Is there the error? The injectors are tested and found to be good. Control time also fits. Does anyone have an idea? Many greetings

  • Driver’s door does not unlock

    Hello together, I have a problem with the central locking of my smart. Sometimes the driver’s door does not open when I unlock at the touch of a button – it only opens the passenger’s door. Even the turn signals don’t give a signal. In the workshop I was told that the lock has to be replaced on the driver’s side. What I find strange, though: the trunk can’t be opened either, but only when I open the passenger’s door. The workshop said that there might be another At the moment it usually works again, but I have to press the button several times. Did any of you ever have a similar problem?

  • Smart 451 Overview Brake lines Explosion drawing

    Hello, 2024 I changed the brake line from the ABS hydraulic unit to the rear to the two wheel brake cylinders on my 451 from 2007. Since yesterday the little one has again incontinence and it drips brake fluid at the bottom left, also the container is empty and the brakes at the rear are cold. The question is, which line is now gammelted. Outside it is cold, so I would like to order new lines in advance and not like to put myself under twice. any of you have an overview of the product numbers of the different brake lines or even an explosion drawing to locate the defect in this way? Thank you!!!

  • Where is the radio code? Standard device.

    Hello men ! I have a Smart 451 with a standard radio . Now the battery should be changed soon and then the R. is dead ! How can I find the code ? Have all the papers – also radio user manual – aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

  • Free workshops the smart partners can be found

    Can one somehow find free workshops the smart partners are? Does anyone know a listing for Austria? Up to now I had a workshop in Vienna, but that is currently 250km away from me. With me nearby there is also no Mercedes workshop that could read something out for me at the smart e.g… I get spare parts even if I drive almost 100km, because the Mercedes dealer is not a smart partner at 20km distance.

  • Tinkers Wanted

    Hello to all moose fans, my name is Lisa and I am 19 years old. I have been a proud owner of an old V 70 (built in 1998) for two weeks and I love my dark green moose. It fits perfectly to me and I am very proud. I have the car from a work colleague of my mother. His father died and the son offered my mother’s car for sale. The car is actually very well there with its 160000 kilometers. My father is today, however, to the Volvo We rkstatt was driven and a huge barrel was opened there. The following has to be done: timing belts and inspection. Reduced costs approx. 800 euros. Furthermore, the mounts for the bumpers are rusted. However, this Volvo can no longer deliver. Due to the rust my elk would no longer come through the TÜV. On this page http://www.skandix.de/…/ however, such mounts are shown to me. Unfortunately, I am also not very technically savvy but this would have to be done. My father is already talking about a mistake. But I don’t want to give up the car. Does anyone know about it? Should I even go to a contract workshop with such an old car? Or rather to a tinkerer? I thank you very much for your help. Lisa

  • Cover Injection Bar

    Dear moose friends, the cover of the injection strip can no longer be fixed with me. Obviously it is only clicked in, but that doesn’t hold any longer. In the workshop it seems to have been glued to the wall – see black glue (tea-like) on attached photo. Does one of you have such a bar left, maybe from a butcher?

  • Great diagnosis of my workshop.

    Hello, I would like to hear your opinion about a diagnosis of my workshop. A Blubbernder Krummer led me to Opel. It was replaced (dried and bolts torn down). The entire exhaust system was replaced (old and extinguished). As far as so good. After a month of Krummer Blubbert again. Back to the workshop. Again Krummer and Bolt New (on guarantee ). After error reading was seen, throttle flap potentiometer, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor. Opel: this is our Problem, due to the defects throttle flap pot. is burned wrongly and the cracker too hot. Therefore delay and bolts off. Error Check according to plan approx.. 3 hours. Everything clear ? After a long time call from Opel: After verification new finding: It comes out of the cable on the large plug of the main control unit, thereby impurity on the plug and error message. Potentiometers and sensors themselves, are Ok. There must be two cable sets renewed, 1.700 € and 700€ plus wages, Total €3,500.

  • Omega MV6 does not start properly and runs round when cold

    First of all, hello to everyone here in the forum, am new here and have the first question right away. So the car: Opel Omega B MV6 BJ 1998 km 185000 automatic So now to the problems: So I had various things done at about 165000km like ZKD, valve shaft seals, tooth and rib belts, WAPU and a few small things. So far it was running top, but the problems start again. When it is cold and is started there is a strange loud whistle in the engine compartment, this is nac h about 1-2min away. The speed also plays a bit crazy. Sometimes with a little over 1000 then it goes short to 500 and then again 1000. this plays 3-4 times. The bigger problem however is that it gets warm very quickly. in cold weather so at 93° in warm weather and during long rides also in cold around 95° or a little higher. however, if I then park the car, especially after longer distances, the fan runs only shortly after about 10 sec. I then want the car 5 min later sta rten is the temp at about 97° or higher and it does not start. Must then wait half an hour or so. If I drive longer distances and it is at 95°, other things also occur like e.g. the servo becomes weaker, steering wheel is difficult to rotate or the automatic switches very jerky. hope I could explain it halfway. would be happy if you can help me. I know that a remote diagnosis is difficult;-). many thanks in advance MFG

  • Maintenance intervals or what we actually did?

    On the other hand, Moin, have a short question. Does anyone know what is done during the various inspections or maintenances at the moose? Is there a brilliant lin somewhere in the omniscient Internet? Specific for the S80 T6, MJ 04. Have also read the forum all the time, but have not yet found any complaints about the model year, or has nobody written yet? Greetings, and already thanks in advance, Ulf PS: Does anyone know which route is the best in Germany? n the first week of September from Malaga to mother-in-law in Sweden (Värmland), and has to pick up my brother and family in Kassel on the way… I guess I’ll take the route from Stuttgart to Kiel, and across Denmark to Göteburg and then to the north… What time do long-distance drivers recommend?