MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Help noises while steering

    Hello, Subject Opel Omega B Caravan OMVL LPG 2,0 16V Bj 1998 In the morning everything is in the morning after about 10min the steering starts to crunch so as soon as it gets warm, the same as if rubber rubs together so it sounds like already with the smallest steering movement oil in i.o flat belts has been replaced Coupling rods also i.o What could it be his steering gear?

  • Crack while steering, which parts order?

    Moin Together, with my V40 1.8 automatic from 98 it cracks while turning in and starting, will probably be the bearings of the drive shafts. To the right worse than to the left. I’ve been looking for a long time, but I’m not sure which parts to order. Can one help me? On the one hand, you can change the drive shafts, on the other hand, the outer bearings. Where do I start? What do I have to look for? Getting drive shafts is probably a bit difficult he, Skandix no longer offers them to ask about Volvo I have too few heart drops. At the outer camp I don’t know exactly which parts I have to look for. What are their names? Vllt. Part number? I do this myself with support, but I don’t want to stand there with missing parts if I have torn it apart. Thank you

  • Action 1 Percent Leasing

    Hello, wanted to ask if someone knows what it looks like with the 1% leasing of the New Phaeton model.Is that what Volkswagen is doing again or has the new model no longer needed this action?Because I didn’t necessarily see many of the new ones driving around now except from the car dealership. Thank you

  • Washer/Retainer Water loss

    Yesterday evening, display for windscreen washing system displayed. After operation nothing at all. Frost protection natürlich inside. I filled about two liters after, then the stub was already full. But no function. Today after a ride and warm condition came the message water level washing system…… When I operated the washing function several times with switched on light came very briefly what from the nozzle on the right headlight, then nothing more and then I saw like the blue wet rechrs under the apron ze drained, I think the whole content. I suspect that either the container is frozen or rather a hose leaks or has been pulled off by the pressure. Does anyone have experience with this ??? Does the container sit in the fender, so that you only have to dismantle the inner fender ? Is the container not heated ? Or just the nozzles ? Execution with a premium vehicle ? Design lock and technique from the golf ???

  • The Phaeton is on strike…

    Hello, nothing went on this morning, ZV didn’t react anymore, I could only unlock it by hand. The engine didn’t jump on, the complete displays were dead It didn’t even work out, I couldn’t even pull the key anymore. So the ADAC called, which came already after half an hour, although the friendly lady on the phone assured me that no one could come to me about 3 hours ago. Diagnosis of the yellow angel: Probably the alternator. They want to charge the battery 24h and then check the alternator. Now my two questions to you: 1. Does someone have experience with VW Sessner in the Randersackerer Str. in WÜ? Can they handle a Phaeton well? 2. Does the V6 BJ 2003 have to get out of the engine to change the alternator? 3. What will all the fun be for me, just out of pure interest? Thanks already for your answers! Tobias

  • Omega B – WT patent connector – Cannot move fuse ring

    Moin, have a problem with my Ommi (permanent construction site but it will …), I get the hose (which leads over the connection tube to the heat exchanger) no longer securely attached. The ring, e.g. the white one can not move forward even after several persuasion attempts to be secured. Tube is fully pushed forward and one also hears a ‘click’ so that it is assumed that the cut-out at the patent closure has also slipped over the bulge on the tube. In any case, g can no longer be moved to the rear even after pressing down the rest … Questions are now: Why does the ring of the hose not move in removed / withdrawn condition, is the (green) transport securing possibly necessary for the installation? Or defective hose coupling…, too little bread .. 🙂 ? Furthermore, I have the question whether there is still an O-ring inside the connection? At any rate, there was nothing to be seen at a later hour. -Catalogue is also nothing … heat exchanger connector

  • Omega B – X20XEV – Manual transmission – Which transmission oil?

    Hey leutz! Yesterday I changed my monroe dampers in front for axle dampers since the re. monroe meant he had to oil after 20tkm and 2 years (this was in the season)! Since the right damper was already broken after 4 weeks and after a long time the dampers were credited (was on the part dealer that had stored them in the corner at that time) and from monroe after a further complaint no one had come to meet this company for me died! So now we have changed with a buddy the dinger and as everything was done we found 2 larger washers which belong to the upper heel cover and therefore tomorrow the feather legs must go out again tomorrow and the discs in so that the dom camps do not break! I just saw at Kurt his album how it was supposed to be assembled! Thanks Kurt! Well my sentence for previous lazyness is punished by having to pay another anachsvermessung! So and since the granny tomorrow has to be on the stage again I want g Is a 2.0 16 ez 12.97 and switch! Otherwise thank you for your answer and ALL A GOOD RUTSCH AND A BELIEVE-FREE YEAR!!!!

  • Commodore C – level shock absorbers (H) have/have a pretension?

    Hello all, I have the org. level dampers in the back of my Commodore. The car is a bit high at the back (675mm wheelhouse edge to the ground). So I put myself under today and solved the shock absorbers below… and look, it came down directly good 15mm. The dampers were completely ventilated. 30mm he should come down at the back already. Now he looks a little after a gag… Now I wonder if this pretension is normal, a defect or if you can adjust it k The exchange for normal dampers is not an option, I often drive with good load.

  • Sonata automatic problem

    Hello dear Hyundaians I have a problem with my 96 Sonata 2.0i 16V 102kw (139ps).The automatic transmission seems to be in the emergency run (remains in a gear), a little as if the “coupling” slips through. Reverse gear works perfectly. Has this happened to anyone before? What causes the control electronics to run emergency run? Converter damage? Solenoid valves clogged or broken? How do I get the machine out of the emergency run again? irepresent or can I do it myself? For example, do ignition on/off in a certain interval or battery depend for a certain time? Does someone here who prescribes or recommends Oel Hyundai at this machine? So enough questions for today, I hope it answers me one or a… Greetings to the forum

  • Trajet engine just goes off

    Hello forum experts, I once have a stupid question about my Trajet Bj 2001, CRDi, 113 hp: it usually stands more than it is driven. In September he had, however, made a violent tour with 2 x 1500 km behind him and the engine sounded scratchy and somehow unhealthy afterwards. However, since he has driven without any problems, I did nothing further. Until someone told me to have oil tested and tipped up. I also let do (knapper liter of engine oil was missing), e r sounded a little better – but after half an hour of driving plus 10 minutes parking, he didn’t let himself start again. Only when I had waited for the ADAC for 20 minutes (cooled down?), it suddenly went again. That continued like this: start without any problems and drive away, after about 10 minutes (warm?) he just went out again. Gladly at short stops in front of red lights *joy* and then can be started again only minutes later. I have come to the conclusion that you can shorten the engine aube opens (cool?) – goes faster until you can start again. I have now had a complete oil change done. Already on the return trip once again went out. And a few days later the engine lamp does not run out after starting. What can that be? I have no idea if what has to do with the oil change at all or was pure chance or is outside temperature-dependent. I already thought about frozen diesel (is still 75%Summer diesel v on September when I had refueled 12 l of winter diesel in November) – but I am already a lantern parker and then should have had problems at the start. Do you have an idea?