MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Problems with the Wonderwork 7G

    Hello together, 2 weeks ago a rabbit ran into my car. Fronschürze and condenser were destroyed. Everything as far as no problem, workshop has done everything well. On Tuesday of last week I got the car back from the workshop and there was a lot to hear that a funny howl was heard. It is speed-dependent and is getting brighter and brighter the higher I turn. Since the slide again and again through gears. When reading the fault memory confirmed itself the V The car now has 130,000 km on it and is about 3 years old! How can it be that the highly praised 7 G is already giving up its spirit after 130,000 km? With a car, which has recently hit at almost 100,000,00 Euro, one can expect that it can reach more than 130,000 km. Unfortunately, it is also the 2nd gearp roblem. A defective ECU has already done a damage of EUR 2,000,00! Did anyone need to change your 7G? I’m curious what is still coming to light today. I’ll keep you informed. Greeting from Lower Bavaria. Anton

  • Holiday experience with the smart

    Hello together, have now my holiday trip with my 42 (450 he, cdi, 2003 BJ, 52.000 km) behind me. Were a total of 1200 km within 4 days. Again I have to find that long distance with the smart is no problem. I once travelled nonstop 420 km. I have found that the seats for a small car are really above average. I find negative the starting weakness of the diesel. Before one from the stand exceeds the 50 km/h mark it takes forever, sometimes dav Apart from the fact that I don’t want to bring it more than 2500 revolutions when starting up. As an absolutely extraordinary I have to name the consumption of the small. I didn’t exactly record it, but it would have to be 3.3 liters of diesel at 100 km. But I also drove through the Colbitzer and Magdeburg Heath at 120 km/h. The floor mat in the driver’s footroom proved to be disturbing again and again. It always slipped towards the pedalerie. The flap on the left side, on the me If my left foot rests, it never remains in its intended position. And of course it must also be mentioned that the acceptance of the other road users, as often mentioned in the forum, is not the biggest. Some people absolutely have to overtake, just because it is a “smart” driving in front of them. This is annoying to some extent, because you also notice that it is only inconsideration of the people. How does it look at you? Did you have the same experiences? What can I do against the foot mat? Greetings from Thuringia – Hanne –

  • Problem NG

    Hi, after about 10 months of service I wanted to start my 90s again, because I registered it with season mark… He jumped right away, then drove about 1000 m slowly without much speed, until suddenly the engine started stuttering and vibrating. After starting it he runs quite well for a few seconds until he starts stuttering and vibrating strongly and then also completely runs out…. Before I put it off last year, I did a engine room wash and got the Mo torraum waxed… after that he had the same symptoms as now, however, these were gone again after the drying of the ignition distributor… I then drove it still nice warm and then turned off…. Now the question is what the reason for the problem can be…. Can it be that something is wrong with the engine room wash and the wax??? I put the oil lid off and looked inside…. somehow it seems to me that the oil looks rusty… as if rust particles are in it n… I’m not quite sure. Oil was changed the same day that I mowed the car… I took off all the ignition cables, cleaned, because I thought it might be a contact error of the cables. (order when plugging together afterward noticed) Did anyone have a few ideas??? I found a lot to problems with the NG in the SuFu, but nothing to my problem…. Greeting Hannes

  • Daily kilometer counter and the clock zeros when starting the engine

    Hello guys, recently I have a problem with my renault grand scenic. The daily kilometer counter and the clock zeros at every engine start. What could it be? Thanks ahead.

  • Exhaust gas inspection failed – water in the exhaust

    The explanation was not as follows: “Yes, the measuring instrument shows too high values” but rather as follows: “Hello, yes, something is wrong somehow, we had to do 2 times new filters on the measuring instrument, there comes somehow totally a lot of water from the exhaust.” I then ask “yes and how were the values” “yes, the CO2 was much too high.” Could it be that a car at this bad tempera can I prevent the water in the exhaust after such a short distance drive? Can it also be that the catalyst does not change properly when there is still water in the exhaust? Then the shop wants me to change the catalyst and medium/muffler again. They are already worse and partly rusty, but somehow not so bad that they have to be changed. They said there were holes in it and they were leaking, but they never saw holes in it when I last looked down on the lift. Atu’s then thought they’d call me back if the real Tüv had looked at me. But didn’t. Does anyone know such a behavior? Whether they’ve done something wrong or something wrong? But most importantly, what can I do against the water in the exhaust? What do you have so He Do you always have to warm the car before, so that the exhaust gas examination did not fail? Who has ever done the exhaust gas examination in “winter”? And what do they mean by “wrong air”? They said something about false air. Are you talking about false air when the engine pulls false air inside, which confuses the regulation, or are you talking about false air when there is a hole in the exhaust, and the measuring device therefore measures false values?

  • Brake pads not yet retracted – test bench better not?

    The problem is that I don’t have much time until my Tüv runs out. Nevertheless, the brakes have to be tested on the test bench during the re-examination, although they are not yet properly braked. Is this a problem for the brakes? On the test bench the brakes are kicked very hard. Then did not the Brem have to be braked. Does this damage the wheel drum or only the brake pads?

  • Service plan & cost EQS

    I have already written this in the EQC subforum. But maybe it fits better here. A moderator may decide… I pick up the inspection topic again. With my EQS the first service is due soon. KM-Stand currently around 23,000 km. Age 12 months. Promptly came also the offer of the “friendly” by mail: brake fluid renew (at service A) = 113.42 EUR Activated carbon dust filter renew = 161.69 EUR Service A with plus package perform = 362.21 power together lo ckere 637,32 EUR In the enclosed PDF the service contents of the service A are listed: All possible things are “checked”, such as condition of vehicle outside, windshield, wiper blades, profile depth, brake pads, etc. Any amount of real nonsense with an annual car. I like the visual control of the underside of the high-voltage battery and the steering/back axle steering, since you can’t make a visual check without the lift itself. I’m inclined to skip the service. But probably this has an effect on culant or guarantees? And probably the car is annoying with constant indication that the service has been overrun. As a former Tesla driver, I’m apparently “service-weaned”. There was the standard answer “what do you want to do here at the service? Come if something is broken or really due (brake fluid)”.

  • Specialist company looking for the basic setting of the Vario roof

    Hello together, I got a first hand R170 2001 in March, which was gapless with Mercedes to the service and HU. Unfortunately I constantly have problems with the roof, he was several times at Mercedes to the employment, but afterwards the next no longer works. Is there a specialist company, which employs the corresponding experts to the complete basic adjustment of the roof? Optimally wise in the area of Saxony, but also likes to drive into the workshop, if this lo The problem began with the fact that only the boot cover opened under sunlight and the roof only shrugged but did not open, then it worked in the second or third attempt of the switch actuation. The friendly was informed that the roof setting is faulty and it is set. After a short time the same problem started again after collection. The boot cover was set, so it worked for three days. Then the unlocking cylinder in the roof was set. leaks. So in the free workshop, leave the cylinder with a sealing kit and new vehicle sky and again three days later, under sunlight, the boot lid no longer closes 100%, that is, the tips are slightly high and the sides of the triangle discs no longer travel up and the warning sound sounds. After again resetting the boot lid in the free workshop, this now worked 2 days, same problem, under sun radiation the Lid again not right and has to be pressed manually. Now I have the hope that it is a specialist company that has perhaps specialized on Vario roofs, it gets it, that this roof just works as it probably was intended by Daimler. If someone has a good address in this regard, I would be very grateful!

  • Storage of the car battery in the basement

    To protect the car battery from low temepratures, I want to remove it from my old car and store it in the basement over winter and then recharge it before the next start of the season. The battery is from Bosch, model S4, 44 Ah, I think a stinkormal, maintenance-free car battery. See photo below. My questions. I always write basement, but by the slope position is half of the “cellar” a basement and a house connection room and the other half are two normal Room. The door from the basement room is always open and the room is relatively warm. So anything but a typical cold and damp basement. If I tilt the window in the basement room and in one of the rooms below, then probably some lutf movement would take place – might not hurt when loading, right? EDIT: Or sometimes asked quite differently – does the battery even have to get out of the car into the basement? The beetle is in a normal prefabricated garage, on the left and right there is Nachb argaragen, behind a wall with four small ventilation holes. It is located in the Rhine-Main area, where, as is well known, there are no hard winters.

  • Magnat Transforce Reference wlche enstuffe what performance ?

    Hi people have given me a nine sub Now I wanted to ask if the who knows and what is needed so much power, or if who can recommend a sufficient one that I can hang there. Do you think 300 w rms are enough to allow it to run full power Technical details: Magnat Transforce Reference Principle / DIN diameter: Bandpass subwoofer with 300 mm bass driver Load capacity RMS: 400 Watt Max. load capacity: 1.000 Watt Impedance: 4 Ohm Lower limit frequency: 20 Hz Upper limit frequency uenz: 500 Hz Sound pressure: 93 dB Dimensions (WxHxD in mm): 680 x 360 x 360 Weight: 18 kg