Author: 00c12f

  • Bigger game in differential, switching long

    Luck On with each other, I’m here again with a question. The Volvo spins off its kilometers as if it were from yesterday, the hammer. But one thing I find a bit disturbing now, that I can’t switch through gently, i.e. from the two to the three, as well as from the four to the five, actually in all aisles There is always a certain resistance, only with a small pause in idle, i.e. in the middle of the switching process, I can continue to switch, especially if you have a little more L Is it possible to re-create it? I have also noticed that I have a relatively large game in the differential, if I turn the one wheel, it takes a long time to hit the opposite or it turns against the direction. Is there something defective? You can also notice this when driving, in the 3rd gear with thirty km/h it jerks something, the path hissing off and driving is a little big. Now it has a good 310,000 km down, should I have the gearbox reworked? Dan ke many greetings and nice weekend Ronny

  • Motor bearings, etc.

    soderle, ich mal wieder………… bei gas gibt knackts vorne im Gebälg und beim gas abnahme kommen und hören ich wie something vorend zwischen knocking/ schlagend gegen something , tap on the motor support frame of the c70 cab. As soon as this sound comes to take off the gas again light gas there is gone. Motor lifts up when giving gas, and lowers when taking away. So logically that the bearings are probably gone. Someone similar experienced? And if yes, best source w o can I order the parts?

  • Recommendation for purchase

    Hello, dears 🙂 I will be 18 in a few days and would like to buy me as first car primarily a 850 or V70 in the price range 1000,- – 1500€. I have covered 2000 € for repairs, fuel and everything that comes with it. So I actually have a budget of 350€, but I don’t want to spend so much money on one, because I heard that they have to be in a top condition. A T5 should not be necessarily now, they eat like hell fuel, I suppose, but the with 140 hp engine seem to be all right. Do you have any recommendations for me? Greetings Moritz PS: Have no problems with the dimensions of a Volvo

  • REFERENCE Volvo V70 AWD/XC

    Already for the time being, but now very intense: H I L F E !!!!!!! Who can help, who knows advice, what can I do ? I am grateful for every hint as long as it leads to the solution of the problem. The problem: My Volvo V 70 I Cross Country is optically the hottest companion, which one can think of, brilliantly from the equipment, but he is sick, ticking and not getting any more: he vibrates to the best extent. At first, vibrating was limited to cornering, more and more In the meantime it is always, very violent, especially in curves (you have the impression that it rips the steering wheel out of your hand) and it no longer disappears. Vibrations from the front car area, during strong acceleration, vibrations in curves (even worse on the right than on the left), vibrations in the whole car, the pedals, the steering wheel, the gear knob. And nobody finds a mistake or knows something about it: Vol vo Germany couldn’t help several Volvo dealers don’t know what to do, free workshops can’t help and even four-wheel specialists don’t know any more advice. Diagnoses so far: Drive shaft: Supposedly unlikely according to all the statements. All-wheel: works, cardan shaft rotates with normal game, seems to have no imbalance. Angle gear: Who knows that … ? The sleeve can’t actually cause such vibrations, the whole thing about ? Bearings: Are Obviously all OK and even those alone are never responsible for such vibrations. Gearboxes in themselves: hmmmm … maybe … but turns well … rather not … Experiments so far: Cardan shaft developed: Vibration much weaker, but present. Meanwhile, the shaft is back in, the vibrations are there of course. But I am sure that everything trembles now even without the shaft. Drive shaft tested for play: Everything in the normal range. Cardan shaft tested for play: All OK. Ta using explanations and attempts to explain – no solution. Who can help, who has had such a thing before, who knows what ?????? Thank you all already now!

  • X30XE ATM Ruckles at 50/60/100/160Kmh

    Hello and Happy Easter so after I used the SuFu and also found a couple of posts for interesting and these are also to be met with me, I have to here my problem signs. So, I have an X30XE ATM 291 TKm Built 06/94 After my car had started with acceleration to Ruckeln and with it also from time to time for about 5 sec the MKL was on, unfortunately without error stored, I have now renewed the following. 1. DIS module + spark plug cable + spark plugs 2. All seals at the suction bridge etc. 3. VDD renews incl. the O-rings 4. AGR cleaned 5. camshafts.- crankshafts.- Tap sensor changed 6. ATM oil with filter changed and brake band adjusted after approx.100Km refilled and OK 7. air filter 8. engine oil + filter 9. both lamda probe also appears My problem, if I give normal gas, then the buck starts to jerk, I go back from the gas then it catches again and I can gently accelerate. On the BAB if I want to overtake !! K A KICKDOWN !! and a little bit on the gas go the same game with Ruckeln, down from the gas and then gently accelerate again. So my advice is now on the Ande, maybe you have a hint for me now, what it can still be. Greeting Andy

  • No speedometer function due to ABS and TC tell-tales

    Hello friends, I bought an Omega B Caravan for the pleasure of my father-in-law. Unfortunately it is very vulnerable. In the 2 weeks I have it it is only broken. Heating valve new, at Opel with installation 155 €, heating coolers flush 86 € and freeze I still do, petrol pump defective etc.. So, TC and ABS light very often sporadic, thus no function of the tachos and the systems as well as the power steering. Sometimes it works and the lights are off. The lights turn on to great shocks and everything falls off. I suspect somewhere a wobble contact, but where ???? Can someone help me here from you, I really hate to work for a car. Thank you so much, I am totally disappointed, although I like to drive by car. Please say hello Sebastian

  • Facer driver, rust on the FL ; How do you look ??

    Hello, after the winter I looked at my FL from below to spray on wax. What I saw almost brought me to a fainting attack. The underbody, mainly, from the middle, in the rear area, full of rust. Longitudinal beams at the front as well. Externally, the car stands in the lacquer as new, also in the area of the door sleepers. Found in our room a company that restore, which want to rust the underbody, treat with rust paint/lacquer and open protective wax. ler(after taking off protective strips) And foaming out longitudinal carriers with Mike Sanders,price cheap. My VFL Bj.95 (which made me an idiot for total damage) had rust on the doors and window shafts,but nothing on the underfloor. So what does it look like with you and what do you do? It’s a shame that Opel sells such a SChrott to customers. although de Omega is a top car Dieter

  • Purchase advice 406 Coupe 3.0V6

    Hello guys, I have to buy this car.http://suche.mobile.de/…/showDetails.html?… Unfortunately I have no idea about Peugeot.How good are these cars? Is the 3.0 even suitable for gas operation? How good is the automatic transmission? How many gears? Tiptronic? What about the maintenance of the gearbox and the engine? Do the cars have rust problems? What should I pay attention to in general? I would be very grateful for every tip. Greeting Artik

  • AL4 automatic transmission – new software even possible?

    Hello, with my newly bought 406 2.0HDI the transmission went over Jordan on the 2nd day. Switched back under load on the mountain… WüK could not grip… Emergency program. The next day after 100km it became worse and worse… Now it jumps already after a few meters into the emergency program. The thing has only 80TKM down and I assume that it is really only on the solenoid valves. So I ordered 2 new ones and wait until they are flown in here. Question: Can I get the So Is there aftermarket cable and which software is needed for this? Unfortunately, there is no Peugeot Dealer for me on the island… Greetings Rod

  • Sell or keep: Opel Omega A, 2.6, CD

    Our good, reliable Omega A had to go to TÜV and unfortunately did not pass it. There are some flaws to fix such as brake discs front and rear, leaky shock absorbers, corrosion on a door and a rusted exhaust. The car is from 1990 and has never had major repairs, except wear parts. Engine (C26NE) purrs like one and the transmission is also fine. Now my question, since I am not from the compartment. It is worth repairing the car and it is up to To keep the next TÜV or does that mean the end of our long-standing good relationship? The car actually drives like on rails. Actually, I had already decided to sell it to a hobbyist, but I have now come to ponder. What do you think?