Author: 00c12f

  • Rims and tyres

    Servus, I’m going to have time to get my Volvo S40 2.0D (136ps) new rims for the summer tyres. From the research here in the forum I have now decided on 17 inch rims, the question is now only which tire width. The website recommends 225/45 as tire size. However, from various forums I have that 215/45 or much better for the S40. Unfortunately I am a total beginner in this regard and wanted to ask experts here about the smarter choice here. And why are the 225/45 unfurnished 300e cheaper than the 215/45? I would like to lose little driving comfort and little acceleration. It’s about the following rims:https://www.felgenoutlet.lu/…/platin-p99-jetblack?…

  • Overtake engine general

    Hi , my omega has now run 240000 km and what has been done exactly by the pre-owned I know net so exactly .. now I want to keep the car definitely at least 5 years (because it is so good to me ) now we were in summer on vacation since I drove 1300km down and had hardly any oil cover about 0.5l , then we are there in the area driving about 300-450 km in the mountains in Bosnia and it was an outside temp of about 48 C° then the temp was getting warmer to shortly before the red un d then I stopped and looked after the oil that was on under min about 1-2cm we had to then still about 10 km until we were at ner tanke and there I then filled up the oil. about 1,5- 2 l it was. then everything was ok then on another day nen mountain drove up and there was the temp to the beginning of the red making hot have stopped oil that was ok and then let the engine cool down a little. there it was only on the fan wheel because the cage was off but had to go to the workshop because I had to cool down as unfortunately have found net. since they told me then that you should put on the head a little bit not immediately the complete seal change. would that bring what?? have now also light oil cover and also light cool water verb. however where we drove back was the hideout ok about 0,75 l au 1300 km but once went on the highway the oil control light at about 200kmh, have stopped immediately but the oil stand was ok. funny.. now I wonder if I have found the moto r in the summer should be overtaken in a specialized plant.. it is worth it with such a motor or could have the now bigger harm.. and how expensive would be such a thing and could one if one had to do the on has possibly equal to what the performance .. possibly other pistons etc.. thank you for your answer, hope I have explained it empathically..

  • Purchase decision 2,5 V6

    Hello I play with the idea of buying an omega 2,5 V6 my questions: if I should buy one on what I have to pay attention where is the engine most vulnerable or is the car still a workshop faithful car which Bj recommend you to me where most of the childhood diseases are removed because I don’t have so much money over it should be one between 2000 and 4500 € is the preivostellung in order or should I spend more on how high the consumptions are 9-10l realistic? eh he does not matter but the car has a 2-din radio shaft about like this:http://suche.mobile.de/…/showDetails.html?…http://www.autoscout24.de/Details.aspx?id=lfscho2sw1hn thanks for replying ps so the difference between V6 and MV6

  • Klopsensor Omega B brings me to despair

    Hey you freaks… The knock sensor of my Omi is still killing me! didn’t come through the tuv because of brilliant engine diagnosis!The examiner wrote something about environmental pollution, which I absolutely don’t understand, AU got my Omi without the smallest problem! Engine diagnosis returned;Knock sensor bank 1! So he was changed and the error deleted! After 100 meters of driving the control lamp again lit up again test returned:Knock sensor bank 1…! everything was measured cable-wise and k Ontrolliert, what went to control…everything Ok In the meantime the error has been deleted 5 times but the control lamp still lights up and so I don’t get my badge! Maybe someone has a clue what my omi suffers from? I am grateful for every tip!!!!

  • [Omega A 2.6i] Help – my fat guy is jerking!

    Hello together. Have problems with my Omega A 2.6i. And indeed the good guy is quite strong, he has problems with the gas acceptance and of course does not bring the full power. In the cold condition the problems are quite clear, with increasing engine temperature the symptoms decrease, also at high speed. Nevertheless, even with warm engine you have the feeling that there is something wrong. Finally the consumption has probably also increased and lies at about 15l, in the normal case I come I can’t remember the whole gas orgy in the city. Anyway, it was no more than usual. The Lambda probe was renewed about a year ago, the jerking does not disappear even when the probe was pulled off. I also mean to remember that the probe does not regulate anything when the engine is cold. So the Lambda probe probably disappears. I also had the distributor cap off. It seems to have come anew, as does the runner. Is the optical impression good and (for the time being) also eliminates as a source of error. What does this still come into view or what is a hot tip? Air quantity meter? Ignition cable, ignition coil, spark plugs? So experts, let’s get to the keys. The thickness is by the way no grotto: 150tkm down, up to 125tkm checkbook, afterwards maintenance in free workshop, TÜV/AU just new. By the way, I’ve been in the KLR for over a year, he has never made problems. And no, it’s not Omega B, although i I’ve got him in the avatar.

  • Fog rear lights do not work – Omega B

    and still found a mistake..and that the fog lights do not go. if I press the switch lights up and in the tapo it is also shown, but lights does nothing at the back.. have found this problem here already suitable to the omega a..but this also applies to the omega b ?? where exactly is the fog light in the rear light actually at the opel omega caravan or in which area of the rear light should it light up ?? bj.1995

  • Error: Level. Workshop! Car is at the top.

    Hello, I need to penetrate help though today my Phaeton happened the following. VW Phaeton, 3.0Tdi, 2011, 160,000km circa After 5 years of possession I put the car on the net and an interesting report and wanted to drive the car to Dekra to have it checked. Until then I had never had any problems and once said the employee he could not get the car in the car lifternodus. From the yard we tried this with the familiar, 5sec. damper and 5. Nivaeureg. pressed. t and vehicle was in the car lifter mode. Now it shows the following. Error: level. workshop! and curve light AFS. From Dekra out into the next master workshop. Error read, not deposited. Now I have these two errors on the speedometer “Error: level. workshop! and curve light AFS. ” and my car stands very high. Although with level control Normal is selected, there is nothing more. Please for help! …

  • Damping adjustment no longer works after spring leg replacement

    Hello guys, I need your help. At my Phaeton one of the front spring legs leaked, so I put the car in the VW workshop. There were then both spring legs exchanged. Unfortunately, during the repair, why ever, the distance sensor on the brake power amplifier was damaged… currently not available. They log in as soon as the sensor is back in stock. Until then I must live with the fact that my ACC will fail as soon as the car has to brake more strongly. But what is much worse, since the repair the hardness adjustment of the dampers no longer works. The car is always maximum hard and really cruel around the area. There is currently nothing to feel about the raised floating. In the error memory there is nothing to find. In the workshop now they hope that this is also related to the defective distance sensor. Can that be? What do you think it can be? I also get no error message when I get the hardening On the display all this is well accepted, but nothing changes on the chassis. Thank you for your help!

  • Buy adjustable pole without height sensor? Undo even lowering with VCDS

    Hello, I have recently had a Phaeton 3.0 TDI GP3 from 2012 with approx. 120tkm of mileage and read here for a while. I noticed that my Phaeton is quite hard in the height adjustment “Normal” and chassis on “Comfort”. Furthermore, the bumper touches almost the ground even at a low kerb (see photo). Therefore today times measured: Come at around 370mm height from center wheel hub to wheelhouse edge. If I have researched correctly, that’s about 30mm too little. Nter the car has revealed an adjustable pole of the height sensors. So it is deliberately animal-fed by the previous owner. VCDS shows a height deviation in front of -3.0mm in the MWB. I bought the car for comfort reasons and am a friend of originality, so I want to reset everything like series. In the parts catalog I found the sensors only completely with poles and would now reluctantly exchange all sensors for just under 600€. Is there somewhere a source where only the Gest For setting with VCDS I would proceed as follows: – ECU address 34 – Access key 31564 – Adaption/Customization select – Channel 01: 407mm enter – Channel 02: 407mm enter – Channel 03: 401mm enter – Channel 04: 401mm enter – Channel 05: 1 enter to confirm During the procedure the engine is running and all doors are closed. –> Forget something? Thanks and greetings Ulti

  • Kaufbereatung Transporter for conversion to mobile home

    Hello, I’ve been a silent reader for a few weeks and have now signed up for help. I’ve been dedicating the topic of transporter conversion for quite a while now and the research is frustrating me pretty much. That’s not only because you should be on the watch with used car sales, but that opinions go very far apart and I know some people with good car knowledge, but at the same time because everyone has their own Prio I hope that you will be able to help me with the manufacturer/model selection, so that I know what I can concentrate on when looking for a car. I am Sebastian from Berlin, almost 30 years old and have never owned a car as a passionate cyclist. However, I have long had the dream of using the flexibility and comfort of a car to pursue my further great passion for outdoor holidays. I have the following requirements for the vehicle: Candidates who meet these criteria offer almost every manufacturer. At the same time, I don’t care which brand is on top of it or what the vehicle looks like in general. The question is: Where am I best taken care of with my requirements? I suppose that the car is the best way to use the vehicle. ass 150,000km for a sprinter does not mean the same as for a Ducato. At the same time, the age of the vehicle is already limited by my budget. I will probably not get something newer than 2010 year of construction. In short: Among the given premises: Which manufacturers/vehicles would you focus on? Are there certain years of construction that should be categorically excluded (the sprinters seem to have big rust problems before 2008 for example)? Which km number holds The questions are still very general, I am aware of that. Nevertheless, I am looking forward to hearing from your experiences and have the hope to maneuver through the used car jungle much more purposefully soon. Thank you Sebastian