MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Mondeo Tournament 1.8 16V Bj 94 what to note?

    Hello, have bought me for relatively little money (850EUR) a 94er Mondeo tournament GLX with the 1.8l 16V machine with 188tkm (switch). Since the seller was a real dip (e.g. had defective fuse dipped light left, which of course did not notice and has instead to change the fuse to a cable from the right headlight …), I would like to know what I should do technically everything (only for prevention, since there are no records about maintenance and inspection). Is this a big thing at the Mondeo and how is the fastest? Furthermore, both bumpers are over, does someone have two price values??? Thank you and greeting Andreas from Kassel

  • Again door edge rust…. 🙁

    Hello! Guys, you’re going to stone me or tar me, feather me and then light me or something, but it’s about the brown plague at the edge of the door again… I’ve already read through the approx. 1.345,298 threads and I’m sorry that I open another one, but I’m talking about the following: I was today with my Mondeo in the wash road and then I got stuck on the driver’s door and the right rear door during dry scrubbing. llt. (Well, so far as no problem, for the disillusionment I was able to prepare myself now for almost 2 years.) But now eats with me so that it “only” starts to rust easily, so can not be too long since it has started. Therefore my question, if you would go now to let this be judged or would you still wait until it almost starts to gammeln properly?????? Does this make a difference if it starts to rust again sometime later after the repair? Or eats completely the same??? Here are the pictures of it. Thanks already and sorry for this annoying topic… Greeting Bear P.S.: Please excuse the bad quality of the pictures, but I only have a mobile phone cam without macro function…

  • Handlebar flaps despite balanced wheels

    Hello, as already written, the following problem occurs with me. Between 80 and 100 km/h it wobbles in the whole car. I already had all 4 wheels balanced out, did not do anything. I actually did not have cheap tyres where something like this could happen. There are Michelin Alpin something… , they are also only 3 years old and still have at least 60% profile. I will probably also drive to Ford, but the experience has shown that it sometimes makes sense to those the rough R to show. Greetings schuppe115

  • Engine compartment protection from below

    hello to the MK III drivers. does someone happen to know from you whether the MK III has a motor underrun protection (or as the part is called) as standard or only on some models?? My last Focus tournament had this (Bj 2002 ) and this Mondeo I have now (Bj 07/2004) has no — is that right? ( 2.0 TDCI 07/2004 tournament ) and if or not — is the retrofitable? and what will cost such a thing?? or Bzw.. I will visit my Ford dealer because of that — if it’s up to all should be below. gruss andreas

  • Mondeo Mk1 Bj.93 Brake power loss

    Hello everyone. It happened again, my Mondeo is standing. Yesterday there was a change of the front brake blocks with me. I then got the blocks and the grease. Spring off. Brake caliper with the 7er Imbus removed, the bracket with the two machine screws cleaned for cleaning also and cleaned with a wire brush. The old brake cheeks removed. First of all scared, because it really needed to be changed, although I only 35tkm of motorway drive dam With a combo tong (I don’t know any nice method) the pistons were pushed back. Before the tank opened for you brake fluid. Something greased, blocks back in. Saddle over. Screwed and spring back on it. Everything so far as in the picture book. It worked great. Brake fluid checked, ok the stand was a bit rough high by pushing back the pistons. But well was explainable. Tested whether pressure is on the brake pedal, check. Pressure set up and a piece of g When driving pressure away. As soon as I rolled 5cm I was able to press the pedal in until impact, however, at the end of the pedal had a very good braking effect, in which he almost blocked always. First thought, air in the line. Front wheels again. Ventilated. Wheels again. Driven. Same problem. Next thought to exclude sources of error. Brake fluid change at front and back complete. All wheels from time to time pumped and ventilated. Wheels again. The same problem still. In the stand it builds up fully pressure. As soon as I drive I have only stop braking effect. New brake fluid, discs front 50 %, blocks front new. Back still drums which are also relatively new. Sorry for the long text. Does anyone still have an idea what it might be about? I was already made to the suggestion that it is the main brake cylinder. That the air has in it. Possible ? I’m open for suggestions. Thanks already

  • 3.0 TiD, bubbles in the cooling water tank

    After the last long distance I observed the following when checking the oil level when looking at the cooling water compensation tank: On the cooling water a light foam crown swam. No oily foam, no lack of cooling water, no missing oil. After 2 days of usual “cuddly ride” the foam was gone and there are only occasionally light bubbles in the cooling water tank. I never noticed that. My blacksmith told me that some bubbles and foam were passing through we are allowed to be and are normal, as long as no cooling water is missing and no oil film floats on top of it. I somehow suspected the head seal, but then cooling water should have been missing. Water level is as always unchanged and also no abnormalities. Do I hear the fleas cough? What does it look like with your solder carts? Have ever had bubbles in the container? Stefan

  • Piston eater 2.0

    Moin,moin I now have the 2 piston-eater in a short time, a buddy had a 170er lying already in place (looked still very good from just 700km) which we then installed, pistons nicely lubricated with oil and everything well assembled now comes the big one but: we have old head + foot seals installed because he meant they are still good and he is KFzler therefore I believed him so.. well then after not even 30 km the 170er was gone, well half as bad ori wied he on it and the ori looks the same now but kept it longer.I had problems all the time however because she burned cooling water with because of the seals, however, it never became too hot because I always filled up… Yes I know unwise but everyone makes mistakes sometimes, such a once…. the thing is that it was not a real eater with both, only pistons and heads have got what. Now my question can be this through the water problem? And once a whole and ere Question: I need a new kit now, but only find some tuning kits or go with new pistons (the what?,to do that I still need a new head)PS: I never build old seals again(the pistons are slightly scratched on top and on the head are chipped)Uploading pictures works like not Mfgj

  • Insurance and purchase advice

    Hello guys, I’m going to make my A1 driver’s license in March and would like to buy a machine afterwards, I thought of a Kymco Quannon 125 because this is relatively cheap and I don’t have so much money available as a student.My first question is this machine suitable for a beginner and is it enough? Besides, how expensive would the insurance be with this Macshine she wanted to run over my father who has only 30% with the insurance he is with the Volkswagen Insurance ung and has insured his seat there, is the insurance at all affordable for me as a student or not ? Thanks in advance

  • Senda R EXTreme-Qualm when giving gas

    Öhhm, I have a problem or not, I have a nigelnagelnew Derbi Senda R EXTreme 05. Driver’s license so I get it in early October. So the Derbi runs perfectly, the dealer said I didn’t have to drive it, because it only goes 50 km/h anyway, I think you have to drive it in. My 2Taktöl is still 3/4 full, on a foggy day I wanted to test it again, just because of the sound, I throw the cart, the Tuckert still a bit, and I think: Well, it’s not that bad, petrol is just a lesson, I still have a canister, but I don’t have the manual from the dealer yet, so I don’t know exactly what’s coming in now. I looked into the tank, can see the tank floor 3 days later on a Sunday, it starts perfectly, it starts very well – now I’m worried that because of the N, I can see the tank floor 3 days later on a Sunday, it starts perfectly, it starts very well – ebels on that day spun the electronics around – except for the many smoke that leaves the end pot didn’t look good. So I guess that the missing petrol creates a false oil-split mixture, and therefore too much 2Taktöl is burned. I don’t know much about engines. So question: Am I right and I still have to drive it in ??? – Otherwise nice thing!!! – and if something breaks, I have guarantee.

  • Winter preparation

    Hello dear user, I will shut down my Fox in 2 weeks. I would like to know that he will survive the 5 months winter, what I have to consider if he is standing in the garage for so long. I am very concerned about the liquid things in the car like oil or gasoline! How much should you keep in it or what should you let off.Or the battery, should you disconnect or something like that?What about the spark plugs? ipps you have so that I don’t wake up with a nasty surprise when I want to wake him up to life again in April… I’m really grateful for every tip you can give me. Greetings and thanks for the answers… FoxStar