Author: 00c12f

Hello together, since this is my first post, short something to my person. My name is Chris and I study mechanical engineering in 7 semesters. In my spare time I drive Gokart. With cars I have only dealt with optical things but never played at the mechanics. Now to my problem. In my Batchelor work it is about developing a driving simulator for driving schools, which allows the novice to start in a safe environment (i.e. in the driving simulator) the Learning to drive before sitting behind the wheel. The driving simulator has been developed for 2 years and my work is mainly concerned with the seat mount. The seat must be height adjustable and drive back or forward. However, when adjusting the height, I have no experience like that in cars. I want to find a mechanical or hydraulic solution. It would be great if you might have found me a few pictures (in Google really nothing right) h ohladet or me a few concepts tells me how this is done at the moment. On Monday I am at the junkyard and hope to be found there as well. Thank you for your help!!! Best regards Chris Reitner Finally, before everyone says: “Get a seat from the junkyard and build it on it”, was also my idea, but I can’t, you should build it yourself…

Hello together I’m new here. I have the following problem: When I wanted to drive home from the store before my car didn’t jump on. No turning, clacking etc. Battery must have been empty because no radio didn’t go any more etc. and when I was looking for an ankassvwr everything flurryed. I tried to roll on a mountain but didn’t jump on either. I got the ADAC informed about that and it was there quite quickly. 30 min. Had radio heater everything turned off….Car stopped and immediately tried to start again. Everything dead again no turning anything. What can that be? Rather a broken battery or the light mesh or something else? Looks also in the engine room It looks as if a rodent could have made itself there also because of that, but why does it start with start help immediately? Unfortunately, I have hardly any idea. To my car. Drive a Seat Ibiza 1.2 t si Bj 2014 52,000 km Thank you already in advance for your help. LG Mario

Hello, I commendel unfortunately tgl. a relatively long distance so far always highway. I now have a Hyundai i40 1.7crdi and consider considering the mileage savings and value preservation to use the shorter highway route. I have for my commuting route 2 options: 1. highway 67km, relatively rare traffic jam, A highway cross. 2. highway, where I drive about 7km through villages. On the whole “road” there are 2 traffic lights and a crossing more than on the AB-Stre otherwise I get through well and am almost only on bypass roads or last piece of federal road. Through the villages I get stable with 50kmh (no traffic) or partly 70kmh, where it is allowed. approx. 3km are quite curvy. The highway costs me about 5-10min more time Since I am on the highway relatively fast (approx. 150-170kmh) the fuel saving on the highway is approx. 0.5l-1l. Would you rather recommend a highway? Thank you for your answers!

Hello guys! Well, my car was on a lift today, and I noticed the following: Two wheels seem to be easy to “stitch”, i.e. I can’t turn them with momentum, they stop immediately. Of course, handbrake wasn’t dressed, even the gear was not inside. I had the brakes all re-made (brake discs, brake pads and new protective plates for the brake discs) and there seems to be a connection here. r during the ride a noise, it sounds like a grinding of some part on the brake disc. I have to say that the vehicle stood about half a year. Before it came to a stop, I read the above mentioned parts swapped. At first I thought that by standing, rust had formed, and this would cause this “slip” noise. I know that from my restoration object, a Mercedes /8, which I often push back and forth, and which in doing so a similar I found a trace on the brake disc, someone said to me that it was “metal on metal”, so the brake disc seems to have been scratched. What could have caused it? Can brakes be “fixed”, which would also make the wheel stick? And: Someone told me that the brake disc is the scratch track (which, however, is at the extreme edge of the disc). t) can no longer be used and is considered a serious deficiency. Is that true? Thank you!

I am currently interested in cooling systems. I have read in a little more intensively into the matter. Cooling liquids are also an almost more complex topic like motor oils. What I have noticed so far is that not all cooling systems are built the same way. The classic arrangement is an engine with cooling channels and 2 possibilities as the cooling water in the circle swells, either directly back or over the cooler. That’s actually the same with everyone. How far the system is under pressure i The pressure only goes up to the cooler cover. This has a special structure and 2 seals. The outer seal should always be tight, the inner one is spring loaded and opens up at nominal pressure and leaves the excess over a hose which goes away between the two seals in the overflow tank. This has even above a overflow with it not bursts. Many cars and above all almost all liquid-cooled motor wheels In the USA, too, this system is the normal case. Only VW, for example, is doing this differently. There is pressure on the overflow tank itself. Is there a reason why you have moved on to it, because in the past, VW has done it more “classic”. Does it have something to do with the novel silicate-free liquids that may have little air contact? Which manufacturers still do it like VW?