Hi, My Audi 80 B4 Built.9/94 115 hp 185 TKm has been spinning around lately. In a warm condition, the engine suddenly starts to commute between 900 – 1100 rpm in idling mode. During the ride, it also jerks quite enormously. I have the impression that problem usually occurs when I have driven a little faster, so 130 km/h, and after faster acceleration! When you enter the gas then it pulls well through bubbert but then continues. Make the engine off and on again or My first tip was the Lambda probe. I changed it, but now it’s not so bad anymore. Air filters, candles, ignition cables are OK. Error reader at Audi shows nothing! The problem is that it only appears sometimes. Otherwise it runs great. My Audi consumes quite well oil, OK at the Km, can there possibly be a connection? Is there any known Audi 80 error at the B4 2.0 Are there really in front of a guess I’d be really helpful if someone could give me a hint.
Author: 00c12f
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Mazda3 (2019) – your fuel consumption?
Hello, because I just read in the main thread about the idea of a consumption thread: Here it is! The information about which engine/gear combination it is of course advantageous (Skyactiv G / X / D), gearbox (AT / MT) and FWD or AWD. Maybe also the driving profile (city, country road, highway) and whether short – or long distance. Have fun!
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Maschinchen for the newcomer
Servus, God for greetings, Petri Heil, etc etc…^^ Now that I want to be regarded as motorized something with my tender 21 years (in order to make the picture of the tattooed, bearded biker perfect) I wanted to ask myself. To my person, 1, 85m tall, 150 kg heavy and soon in possession of the A-limited. Now is the problem, I am looking for a suitable machine. A workmate would have left me his Honda CM400T, but since the charge I’ve been looking for a few machinines, where the question would be, is all this something for people of my stroke or should I rather leave my hands off. (you should say that my budget is only 1000€ max. which means that I’m also limited again) No1 or No2 These are the two options within the framework of a Kawasaki. It would also be this one or this one option, whereby The latter is not really mine, because it should not be built for 1.85 people^^. Perhaps one of you has a purchase recommendation for me or even a completely new proposal. Should go in the direction of Chopper. MfG Robin pS: If that should be the wrong forum, then please move ^^, seemed appropriate to me due to the machines.
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Ignition lock problems Klx 650C
Hello guys, Have an electrical problem with my KLX 650 C! Think that any fuse is through! As soon as I set the ignition key on ON the idle control light green, as well as the coolant temperature warning light red, glow. Then pull Joke starter press… Brum… The two control lights remain black, starter has no power supply, somints no function! turn signal, horn, light…. everything else works!!! Can possibly a contact be defective at the ignition lock? An electrical circuit diagram would also help me a lot! I could start the troubleshooting step by step. Or does someone have a repair manual to sell or to copy out…???? Please for help Mfg
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Piped exterior mirrors
Hello, do you have that too? A loud whistle, triggered by the left outside mirror. Start with me at approx. 120km/h and then become continuously louder. If you close the mirror or change the wind current with your hand, then the noise is gone. Can you do something against it? Thank you!
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Toyota Yaris bought last year in March – New car question for inspection/guarantee+gas pedal
Hello, I bought an EU vehicle Yaris 1.3 in March 2009 and wanted to ask about the warranty+inspection. 1)When do I have to register with a Toyota dealer for the inspection before? 2)Did all have a unit price or can they sell me the inspection expensive, because they think for example “yes, now this type with a EU vehicle comes, did not buy it from us, but we should now do inspection – we make it expensive…” 3)How many days can I be over the time, So over the year, so my warranty still remains ?? 4) Should I call several Toyota dealers and ask about the price ? 5)Do I have to worry about the accelerator pedal ? What do you need from my vehicle license to see if my car is affected ? (don’t know me well with cars) Thank you for the information !
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How to permanently switch off Lane Assi because the constant steering intervention/correction is annoying
A known person asks for help to turn off the constant steering corrections.In the Menue Driving Assistant you can disable the LaneAssi but then the ACC and other functions will be displayed and the old function will be present again when restarting.In my Seat Ateca I can switch off the function separately and it will also remain without a function when restarting. Who can help?
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Overtaking
I drive on the federal road, speed limit 70km/h. In front of me a car drives, in front of this a truck. Because of a slight climb he drives only about 50km/h. Now the opportunity comes to overtake, because the road for about 400m becomes two lanes. What does the PKw in front of me? Drives 350 m long intentionally comfortably to the left of the truck and first overtakes daringly on the last 50 m, that the following traffic has no chance at all to overtake. I have this “play” several times on the B56 at A Seen after/Bonn. In my opinion, such a car driver is already very advanced with his mental illness.
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Wheel suspension and metal rubber bearings defective
Hello you love! I hope I get some advice from you. I bought a little Fiat Punto 3 weeks ago from Private. Really cute the little one. Even just got new Tüv. I drove the car then a few days, then much on it poltert quite nice, the steering was so easy and with each Huppel I thought the car sat over to the right. I was unsure and drove to Fiat to see the car. The Werstadt master said only oh god. He told me that the Rada And the metal rubber bearings are defective. How did I think he just got Tüv. I and Fiat looked at the Tüv report. First he failed, exactly because of these things, a month later he got Tüv without defects. Hääääääää!!!!!!!!! There is something wrong, I have to say the Tüv ran not over a factory town, but directly at the Tüv Nord. The car should never have got Tüv…!!!! Or??????? Now I bought a car w The car cost 980 euros. If the car had not had a Tüv, I would never have bought it. I connected with the Tüv Nord. The whole thing is now being tested. I am really curious. Anyway, the car is now in the factory town. Today the Tüv told me and they send me it in writing, I should still dare to take it to the road. It would not be a danger for me or other traffic agents. Although I have the feeling I’m sitting on the street with the butt. Does anyone know about this??? I have now filed a lawsuit against the Tuv Nord. I was really cheated here for my money. Does anyone know a guess, I don’t know how to go on. Can I really drive with this car??
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Towing costs ADAC
Hello forum I had a breakdown with the car from my dad. Since the car was no longer ready to drive it was towed home by ADAC 70 km distance.When I called ADAC Service Hotline I was asked what is on the vehicle license and if it is identical with the names of ADAC member it is in the case. Soo to my concern because I received a letter from ADAC where it says that the costs are not taken over and I have to pay them. Experts as I know it’s insured again compared with the hotline lady and the towing service meant it the same way. How do you see this ??? The vehicle is registered to my dad and he has ADAC Plus customer since 1985 Many thanks in advance…