Author: 00c12f

I wanted to start thinking about saving my money until my 18th birthday and then getting a Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R. Or should I now rather get a YAMAHA YZF-R 125 (or Aprillia RS125) and then, with experience, get a big machine like a Ninja? Because I’m not sure if the ZX-6R has too much power for the 1st motorcycle. But with the YAMAHA YZF-R 125 (or Aprillia RS125) I’m not sure if the power is enough. The ZX-6R would i You’d better save on the 600s or get a 125s now to get to know a motorcycle? And if 125s, which Aprillia RS125 or YAMAHA YZF-R 125? If you want to get to know a motorcycle, you’d better save on the 600s or get a 125s now?

I changed the motorcycle (84s) years ago for a car, since then it stood around with me. 3 years ago I used to swap the scrapy 4in1 system again for an original one, otherwise actually nothing. It was always like that, when you turn up the petrol tap, runs down out of the carburetor battery fuel. Yesterday the oats bit me once and I removed the carburetor battery (sch… game). All float chambers degraded and found a lot of dirt and also in the third e in fixed float needle valve. I cleaned everything and that looked good as well. When blowing through the central gas hose you notice that all floats close (gasifiers on the head) or open when they are right again. I have installed them again and connected them to an emergency tank, the original one is filled with an undefined mixture of old fuel, rust and water. And again dripping fuel out 🙁 It is not even recognizable from which gas he. The positive, the part runs great, after a few years of service, two of them outside, is the one that jumped directly at the first start attempt. The second problem is that the start button doesn’t work. With the old thing, it’s just a requirement that the gearbox is idle, right? Neutral lamp is on. Does the cable go directly from the handlebar to the starter relay and where does it go long? Thanks for tips…

Hello dear community, I got myself a well-preserved Kawasaki GPZ 550 (1984), which now only stood around for 12 years. In the vehicle note the machine has about 50hp, but I am somehow unsure, maybe one of you has a plan. My uncle and I try to bring the Kawasaki back to the front, however we have some questions: The air valve, which is at the front fork, how much pressure in cash comes in and/or Sticksto ff. Can you inflate it with a standard bicycle air pump? Above the side stand there is a kind of welded fuse, into which the side stand could be plugged, or what is this? I will send you the photos of the air valve on the front fork, the fuse for the side stand as well as a photo of the carburettor. Greeting Nik86

Hello Together I wanted to revive a KZ650SR and did most of it. This machine actually had an engine of the D variant (contact ignition) installed in the original. Then the previous owner of the engine was replaced by the engine of the F variant (contactless ignition). The wire harness was adapted to this. When I picked up the machine, it had power. The engine ran … although … well. Now it’s like that I always have the following problems: The engine runs some Z … then the current is off. Wants to say: nothing is going on anymore. No lamp, no ignition, no glimm lamp … nothing. Safety is okay … before and after the fuse is voltage. I now change the controller .. everything is going on again. So the controller is defective. BUT: After an uncertain time x … the same happens again. The machine has not been driven a meter yet … we only talk about the test operation in the stand. In this way I have heated up 3 controllers so far. The only explanation is that the only I now have an ironing that the controller that is installed with me (it has a cable bundle with 6pin plug, but with only 5 connectors and separately a cable with single connection …see pictures) does not fit the F motor. Therefore, my question: – Does anyone know if the controllers of the motors with contact ignition have different values than the controllers of the motors with contactless ignition? If yes, which please. – Does anyone know if the controllers of the F motors have the same connections as those of the D Mot oren (see pictures)? If no, can someone please send me an image of such a controller for the F motor? Ideally also with type plate/exact designation and connections? – Does anyone know how the harness of the SR (formerly D motor) would have to be converted (concretely) so that the controller fits for the F engine variant? If this is necessary. I hope I can solve the problem. Would the machine not like to give in to the parts recycling. Thanks and VG Tom

Hello everybody, I haven’t been here for a couple of weeks now, because my GPZ 600 runs like clockwork 🙂 Now to my question: I bought a nice GPZ 500 Bj. 88 for my girlfriend on the weekend. This has 50 hp in the appearance, which is probably true. Since she is doing her driver’s license and wants to get the “open” appearance directly, the machine must have at least 60 hp for the test (i.e. the original, open performance of the GPZ 500). Who can tell me how ic h get the GPZ now from 50 hp to 60 hp?? I know! There are a lot of things in the forums. But I have only found the removals from 34 to 60 hp. Is it true that in this case (50 hp to 60 hp) I only have to change the carburettor lids?? Thank you and many greetings, Claus