Author: 00c12f

  • Solid car – commuting – approx. 35,000 KM per year – Student

    Hello together, I’m looking for a car for myself. Briefly to me: I’ll start my dual studies next year. To my training company I would drive about 160KM per day (return trip). This for almost 6 months, after that the theory phase would begin, then come together again a few kilometers. – Budget: 7000 – 8000 € – KM Per year: about 35,000 KM – Driving style. more sporty – 1.88m tall and slim 80 KG – 3 years should keep the car, after that I’m ferti g with the study and get a company car! “low value loss” would of course also be class.. – Route: Warendorf (48231) to Herford (32051) – a lot of highway and highway – should therefore run “quietly” so that driving is not too exhausting – saloon, compact class, coupé – no combi! – 2/3 doorr or 4/5 doorr, depending on the class. – Running performance: preferably under 60,000 KM depending on the model, how long-lasting they are and from when the repairs start. I have no experience – Color: preferably black, white, grey. or silver, red, blue. (as seriously as I don’t take that) – PS: not the lowest motorization, healthy average would be appealing here – Diesel or gasoline (the petrol engine best under 7.5 liters in consumption) – Equipment: fog lights, multi-function steering wheel, cruise control, MP3 Aux CD, E-window lifter, ABS and such things. ss but Nice to Have and I think also sometimes realistic in the price range. – No Go’s: Corsa, Twingo, old B class Mercedes, old A class Mercedes and these really small cars! The only small cars I like is the Seat Ibiza and the Fiat Punto. I think a diesel would be a good solution here. If you recommend me a petroler, please make sure that it does not swallow too much. Since I as a dual student do not earn so much. I tend to prefer a comp The car should be relatively robust and not too vulnerable. The insurance, repairs, taxes are taken over by my parents. I have already looked at the following models or informed myself about them. – Ford Focus (from 2004) prefers the facelift models from 2008 (2/3 or 4/5 doors) – Opel Astra H (from 2004) prefer the facelift models from 2007 (2 3/3 or 4/5 Doors) – Fiat Bravo (type 198) (from 2007) (2/3 or 4/5 Doors) – Fiat Punto (Grande or Evo) (from 2005) (2/3 or 4/5 Doors) <- very uncertain, suitable for long distances? Does this quiet run? - Hyundai i30 (from 2007) (2/3 or 4/5 Doors) - Seat Ibiza (from 2008) (2/3 or 4/5 Doors) - Audi A3 (from 2003) (2/3 or 4/5 Doors) would of course be a dream (bin Audi Fan :P) Only with the budget the mileage is correspondingly higher than with the others. How about the robustness? I'd like to take a car which has already run 70 or 80 thousand? - BMW 1er (from 2004) (2/3 or 4/5 doors) So do you have any other models? I would think of golf, but that would be technically expensive, I get on at SF 1/2 and have the car insured via my parents. Unfortunately I find to the above mentioned models hardly a diesel that has a low mileage. Can you recommend me some? I would like to buy a car this year approx. . Location: Warendorf, 48231 Thank you, if any information is needed, please report! VG Timo

  • Euro 4 for scooters

    Hello. Who is familiar with the Euro 4 emission standard valid from 2017 ? What is changing with this new regulation for us scooter drivers? Greetings, and thank you for your information.

  • Renew drive shaft right wheel side

    Hello dear people. And again I need a professional advice. First of all to the car. It’s about a Renault Clio EZ.: 12/98 Zu2: 3004 Zu3:567 1.4 liter engine. So I should look at the car because a clear pulsation in the brake pedal is noticeable and also audible. Well you have heard that it actually comes from the front right. So wheel down brake tested everything chic. When turning on the brake disc then determined that the ABS ring is missing a piece. Funny way no ABS shines and nothing but that can only be to say this carefully. Well now looking for how to change the drive shaft joint best. Unfortunately, I always find only how to change an Achsmannschette and there is always only mentioned that you should extend the complete shaft and then from the gearbox side the Achsmannschette for the wheel side should push over it. But now I have to change the whole joint. Now I ask myself that you can even nic like any other manufacturer, does “knock” off the shaft? Do I have to change a complete drive shaft or does the joint change?? And would be nice if someone knew the suit value for the wheel bearing. I thank you already in advance. Mfg Sascha

  • Clio 1 – No power in 5th gear from approx. 80km/h

    Hello helpful people, I’ve already used the SuFu and I haven’t found my problem yet, so I hope there’s someone who can help. Renault Clio 1 from 1996 1149 cc engine capacity 40KW/54PS code to (2): 3004 code to D.2 with test number: 76000A 4 I can record an acute performance crash in 5th gear. It occurs at speeds from about 80km/h and has the consequence that the car takes about 40-50 seconds to accelerate from 80 km/h to 100 km/h in lead At 100 km/h (downhill also 115 km/h) is however finished! The problem is apparently independent of speed, because in lower gears at the same speed problem occurs. In other words: In urban traffic and low speeds in the 5th gear the problem does not exist. Furthermore, the car jerks. It just does not bring any power. The gearbox also sounds striking and it grinds or knocks. Neither audible nor as vibration in the gear knob. iten of >50km/h you hear a quiet squeaking (from the feeling I say from behind) that stops as soon as I brake. Whether this is related I do not know but every info is certainly important. Please ask if you need more information! I hope someone can help me or tell me what I could test. Already he-googled I have things like: What would you type and above all: How do I test this?! I thank you all in advance and wish you a nice day, Tobias

  • Forum for Auto Magazines

    Hello, I would like to have a forum at Motor-Talk where you could discuss the reports in the numerous Auto-Zeitschriften. Akuelle’s example would be the Auto Zeitung 14/08. The article Steuer-Flucht on page 3 of the editor-in-chief wakes me violently shaking my head. Maybe there are more users who would like to discuss such topics ? Greeting, 956/962

  • “Break through” of the moderators

    Hello together! I would like to see some more of the moderators on the sides of Motortalk, because in my opinion they are there for that. Many threads run apart in a frenzy of personal hostility and / or senseless comments and often drift topics into total offtopic. This no longer makes them particularly readable and lowers the actually high level that is driven by Motortalk. In other forums, the mods are partly noticeable. amer than here, turn on there rather and admonish once, if it is necessary. This has nothing to do with the exploitation of power, but is intended to serve the regulated cooperation and the clarity. Thus, in other forums posts are also regularly moved to other threads, summarized or deleted, if topics do not have to remain, since already suitable Therads could be shown, in which one then continues to post or if posts just openly nonsense / stupid comments included. I just find that a little more control and control would help the board immensely, even in terms of clarity and utility. Greetings, Michel

  • proposal: new forum ‘Power and lubricants’

    hello and good evening, in my opinion a forum for fuels and lubricants is missing, which can then be divided into fuels and lubricants (motoroel, gear oil, atf). topics of this kind are cross-topic topics and are discussed in all possible fora, but would have a much wider effect if they had their own forum. especially for the field of fuels (price, quality, premium quality, differences, …) I could have a big interest e. am I the only one? with gruss joedi

  • Part residues Fox

    Fox parts that are currently behind VW ! – Drive shafts – Tacho – bonnets – door cap somehow this is all not so hit……or ?

  • VW Fox – Good sides?

    Hello and happy new year for now! I need a (relatively) cheap diesel car at short notice. So far I have only looked around for Lupo and Polo models, but a few days ago I stepped on the Fox. I thought that I would get some information about the nice little car – I have also done here in the forum. Now I noticed that there are incredibly many people having severe problems with their Fox. I need (at least) the next three and a half Yes is a reliable, economical car, because I drive 150 km daily… Are there also good sides to the Fox, except the low purchase price? Tomorrow I look at a few used Fox models, all under 20000 km. Now I’ve become stutzig because of it – there comes the feeling that already after “only” 15000 km they want to “lose” … or am I paranoid? A few things, like climate and central locking are already somehow important to me, and a new Fox with this equipment is already almost too expensive for me, if I can get a used model with a small km-run time at a much cheaper price.. Therefore my used car search. Does one of you also have the 1.4 Diesel Fox and can perhaps say something about consumption, and even more important, about highway behavior? (driving almost exclusively highway..) I have been looking for a long time in the forum, and also read around e.g. in the thread “Fox or Polo”, but honestly was there so o If I were to be very happy about a few answers, I’m quite insecure at the moment. My greetings Summers

  • No TÜV due to defective light range regulation, what now?

    Good evening to all of you, I have now also signed up here in the forum, because the W140 forum is unfortunately not working yet. I was last week with my 400er (Bj. 91) at the TÜV, which failed my 140er, because the light range regulation does not work. Everything in the top condition, the examiner has found nothing further, but does not push me a new badge and everything just because I can not put my light down….because with the good car I transport no field stones 🙂 (. Since I must have been there again in 4 weeks, I wanted to ask if someone knows what could be broken. I would like to fix this myself if it is possible. So far everything is fine, fuses good, plug connections on the headlights also and the ZV pump also works. Does that actually have something to do with it? Is there an extra pump for this? Or can even the servo closure pump have something to do with it? Because I have removed these at the moment for repair (engine through I would be very happy if someone could help me further so that I can get through the TÜV as soon as possible. Thank you already in advance Many greetings from the Lüneburg Heath Alexander