MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • DKW RT 250-2 spark plugs torque

    I installed a new cylinder head on my DKW RT 250-2, built in 1954. With the old cylinder head 2 cooling ribs had broken off. With what torque should I write the spark plug in the aluminium cylinder head? I have a torque wrench, are 25 NM in order or too much ? Thanks for the help Greeting Jürgen

  • DKW RT 125/2 Set ignition time correctly

    Good day, dear motor talk community, I recently purchased a DKW RT 125/2 and would like to check the ignition time at 4 mm before OT and adjust the interrupter contact, which should be 0,4 mm at OT. I encountered the following problems: 1.Earthful spark plug hole: Since the spark plug hole is inserted diagonally into the cylinder head, I wonder if this could cause difficulties when using a measuring clock. 2.Insufficient length of the measuring clock: My measuring clock is too k My theory as I am oblique on the piston may not be able to work properly? Does anyone have an idea if I should use another measuring tip or if an alternative measuring tool would be better suited? I look forward to your advice and experience. Thank you in advance!

  • German post-war motorcycle tune on 30 HP?

    Hello, I’m currently looking for a new screwdriver project for me. Visually speaking, German post-war motorcycles are my absolute favourites, so everything that goes in the direction of BMW r25, DKW rt 250 and Simson AWO 425. I would like to do some longer trips with these motorcycles, especially in the mountains, and can also keep up with my friends with modern motorcycles, for which the performance of mostly under 15 hp simply not ausreic My absolute dream would be a motorcycle with this look/look, but with about 20hp – 30hp and a top speed of about 130 km/h. Does anyone have an idea if, and if so, how to realize it? So the whole thing is realistically feasible, and if so, which bike would be the most suitable basis for it, and which tuning measures, or which new engine could I install? On the internet I have already found this project here, which I am very interested in a Simson AWO with compressor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-SO_OYI-Pc But maybe someone has other approaches or ideas.

  • Slice slammed from the inside! Cause unknown.

    Hello together, have waited longer with this question to find the cause itself, however in vain. And indeed my disc in the 5F Cupra MJ 2015 sporadically from the inside. There are proper drops forming which run from above. So it is at least not a little. Over night the vehicle is always in a well ventilated garage, there is at least nothing formed. What I have always noticed is that after a rainy day the next day, as long as the vehicle is in a well ventilated garage, nothing is formed. air conditioning is rare with me. Therefore, I close the accumulation of condensation water there. It never attacks zb when the vehicle is in the garage. Where could I look for the cause? I’m perplexed. Would be grateful for any idea.

  • Kia Sorento JC “Cracking up to 70 km/h

    Hello all, I changed both wheel bearings, wheel hubs, tyres and brake pads at my Kia Sorento (2008, 170 hp, 2.5 diesel) at the front. On the right side everything is good, but on the left side it feels as if a tooth is slipping through the drive shaft from time to time. But only up to 70 km/h, after that everything is quite normal and it rolls top. But if I come back under the 70 km/h it runs “unround”. I put myself under it again and looked at it. All screws are fixed, drive shaft It’s just as deep in the hub as on the right side and the central nut is tightened with torque. When the car is warm you notice it stronger than when it is cold. That wasn’t before the change on the left side. Someone an idea what that could be? Thank you very much and greeting Dennis

  • Trailer post-> Battery screwdriver…Torque?

    For a new project at home, I thought it was time for a new cordless screwdriver, first of all occupied with the topic, you quickly hit what you can look for and how quickly you get away from the market price regions. Now you fluctuate what has to be and then the idea came to me, if you spend so much money you should also be able to pick up the WoWa with it. Have you got some experience with which screwdriver it works or with how much torque. ha be now screwdriver on the list zw, 60-125NM

  • Biosprit still a theme or snow from yesterday

    Yesterday, when I wanted to start my Yamaha for the first time, nothing touched. The carburettor was cleaned and synchronized with ultrasound 5 months ago. Diagnosis of acquaintances and the workshop:empty jet is too because of biosprits in the carburettor. Who is to blame : First of all, because I did not empty the Vegaser properly, but I am mad at the EU and our environmental ministers+ belonging to the government, which once again introduced something that no one really wants (or needs). In the premium fuels there are E5 , so there is currently no fuel without bioethanol or other bio additives.In my car I only refuel Super 95 , but also there are at least 5% bioethanol included . Injection engines are however not quite as sensitive as older carburetor engines . What such looks like:Drainage So between 2008 and 2011 was a huge excitement in the net (also here in the forum ) because of the introduction of E10 , now you can hear nothing more . That’s why I have there Unterschri well:Petition It’s even more exciting than me…. Whether it’s useful….You have to try it, I think. If something like that violates the forum rules… then delete it!

  • Brake light on the clothes or helmet?

    Hello, the engine brake can be a problem if drivers don’t recognize it behind you. The problem is now also reinforced with e-cars, which therefore have brake lights that react to delay. This is also true for the moped, for subsequent installation and connection to the existing brake lighthttps://st2-systems.com/st2-brake-module/ Also interesting are the variants, which are on the body, because they are very noticeable. Since they are not mounted on the vehicle, there is no Probl eme with the approval: For the helmethttps://www.brakefreetech.com/ Cheap variant, which can be made somewhere to the suit. By the way, is delivered from Poland. Was there within 4 days.https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005807353839.html What do you think about it?

  • R4 Scrapyard or revive

    Servus, got yesterday a R4 which failed at the Tüv check. I don’t know yet, since I receive the letter only next week.The R4 has in front still brake drum seems to me to be an older model. But it has only 57000 km down. The wekstatt has the following challenged wheel brake cylinder in the rear leaks, brake cheeks also have to be ern.. Inequal brake values on the front axle at foot and hand brake. r worn-out tires at the back and a little rusting on the threshold at the front right.And the switchbar has a little bit of a game.Now I don’t really know about the R4 and ask for advice and it’s worth it to repererate it, where I get rep.infos and spare parts except at my friendly.The dashboard is also cut off at one end and the seats sinbd pretty much sat down Am for every advice Grateful

  • Vehicle with automatic transmission up to approx. 1500€ – Tips?

    Moin, unfortunately there are sporadically problems with my left knee due to my age, so it is extremely painful to kick the clutch. For this reason I want to get an old “automatic” again. At the moment I drive an Audi A4B5 with a circuit, before that I drove a beautiful old Audi 80, where unfortunately the automatic transmission was over and when switching from the 3rd to the 4th gear always loud squeaked and also jerked – very annoying… In the next six weeks I hope to have some small change together (more than about 1500 euros are unfortunately not in) to buy me a car with automatic. I would like to have some tips from the specs among you, which brands and models are suitable and which are rather unsuitable. I would love to drive an old Audi 80 again, but I heard that the gearboxes should not be the best for older Audis. I also had a nice old Omega A, which drove very well with the automatic, I don’t like to make the mistake of being led by a model or brand to purchase and then have problems with the gearbox. If the car lasts two or three years I would be satisfied 🙂 Who has good tips (brand/model/series) that are “usable” or unusable? Would have been interested in a Daimler (190er e.g.), gammeln yes but unfortunately under one way… I am grateful for any help! Many greetings! Nils