Author: 00c12f

Hello together, a problem solved, so the next thing starts immediately: Wednesday morning wanted to drive my everyday car (Volvo V40 with start-stop and EFB battery) to work, then a Christmas tree greeted me at all possible error messages, engine was not possible. Then I left the car and borrowed my mother’s car because it didn’t need it that day. When I came back to my car in the evening, it was completely dead, there was no light left. So my CT After 15 hours it was still only with 4 LEDs, so ready to start but not fully charged, but the voltage was at least 12.5-12.6 V (the scale of my multimeter is unfortunately somewhat imprecise). Nevertheless, still nothing happened, no light went on, engine start was not possible. I then gave a starter with another car and at once life returned. Then I drove directly a lap and since then a But my trust is gone, unfortunately I have often stopped with defective battery, in the morning still without problems to work, in the evening battery dead. I then had the battery tested in a workshop today, it brings only 75% cold test current, one advised me to replace it. At the same time the battery is not yet 3.5 years old. What do you think, replace or is there still life in it? Greetings Olli

Hello, I have been dealing with vehicle technology for several years and have accumulated a lot of knowledge over the Internet, but never put my hand on it. The only thing I have done is to read out VCDS error memory and encode small things. I have learned from my knowledge that changing oil or even changing brakes is not witchcraft. My Audi A4 B9 will soon be full again and I would like to do the oil change myself. In addition, I wanted to ask if such a repair guide https://www.ebay.de/itm/392481293825?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0&ssspo=3jm2BtF2RsO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=mxp2cozoqvk&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY for future work could help me learn the bolt independently. edit: https://www.ebay.de/itm/392481293825?…

Good day, I have a little question that has been bothering me all the time and always amazes me. I had to buy a CLK 500 with 306 hp before me, but it was also an Audi A6 with 4.2 engine in the game with 334 hp. Now you want to think that the Audi is at least slightly superior to the CLK. But if you look at all the videos on YouTube regarding acceleration, you notice that the CLK is even faster and the A6 seems to be a lame crutch. Se I was able to observe lbes at Alfa. 250 hp diesel units need on YT 6.9 seconds for 0-100 at around 1.5T. A new 430d 5.5 at 258 hp and also around 1.5T. The CLK with 306 hp takes 5.9 seconds. What’s wrong? I wanted to buy a squinted car at that time with proper performance for driving pleasure. But then I looked at how the cars cut off, and 250 hp cars weighing as much as the counterpart, even 300 hp+ are cold. I always wanted to use the n CLK 500s have, but after I’ve seen how simple diesel with 250 hp undercut the 0-100 time, I wonder if it wouldn’t be smarter to buy a power diesel.

Hello together, I have already read a lot in the forum, but my question will not be answered properly, therefore the new topic. At the bottom the question without my previous story At my wife at the Golf 6 Variant the spring at the front left is broken before Easter. At the rattle noise hard to hear, of course, I am directly to the workshop, where I was then shown the broken spring. At my question, if one could change even one (the other is not broken) they said to me, that the car would then hang wrong. I, as a layman, of course didn’t think anything about it, doesn’t sound implausible. So the father of my wife called, whether we should have it done in the workshop or not, because otherwise he would have had to pick up the car with the trailer and cart 350 km to his home. But now he had thought that both feathers had been broken, and now he thought that one had to change after I already gave the workshop the order. (zu r Info: he was a kfz mechanic himself decades ago and repairs almost everything on his cars himself). I asked an acquaintance who is himself a KfZ mechatronics engineer. He also said that they only change one side in the workshop, except the other side looks “bad”. What also made me stutzig: in the workshop, where the car is now, one wanted to look at the cathedral warehouses (or what the names are) and only change, if that are defective. Father and acquaintance say that they should be changed right away, because you have already built the whole thing apart anyway and when dirt comes in it makes noises and then has to take it apart again only because of it. Besides, my acquaintance said that it makes no difference in driving behavior, whether you make only one or both sides (the internet says exactly the opposite…). Here in the forum I found the group, which says that you should both sides mac And of course I am now looking for “the truth”, the really right and important way. I am something special and would like to know exactly Tltr: Should you make both sides new at the spring break? If so, why and should you join the cathedral camps at the same time?

Hello together, last time I stumbled by chance over the following report of the oldtimer market: Since I am about to finish my oldtimer (model year 1979) something of course raises questions. Not that I intend to build a riot box but of course one would like to avoid the vehicle being shut down wrongly. Quotation: what a noise measurement on site should confirm: The measuring instrument shows a standing noise of 101 dB(A), although according to papers only 83 dB(A) are permissible Quote : there is no question of illegal noise because S. measures the noise of the Chevy in traffic control according to the wrong standard. Dekra test engineer Andreas Müller* makes the same mistake in his report, which he captures shortly afterwards on behalf of the service group Autoposer. Although he only comes to 95 dB(A) standing noise It is only 84 dB(A) when measured according to the correct standard: because according to § 49 of the road traffic registration regulations for cars with individual operating permits and First registration by 1 October 1983, a measuring distance of seven meters before, no near-field measurement from 0.5 meters. “There are about 17 dB(A) difference between the two measured values in the same car,” says Alex Piatscheck, long-standing GTÜ test engineer and one of the two owners of the oldtimer filling station at the Hamburger Elbbrücken. According to the legal standard, 5 dB(A) tolerances are added. What is missing from the pickup is a single letter in the vehicle papers: There is the St. andnoise of 83 db(A), but not the large N for the measurement method. “The letter is often missing. Sometimes it goes down at the full acceptance, sometimes the approval office forgets it. It is not mandatory, but should prevent confusion” So far, so good. With me 77 dB(A) are in the letter. Without the “N: Logically also no “P: My 88 Omega has the “P” and also a higher standing noise value, which is confirmed from the article because my BMW was in the stand in ever the case louder than the Omega. On Wikipedia I happened to find out the following: Quote: The driving noise is comparatively complicated to measure. Therefore, an additional value for the standing noise is given. It serves as an indication for the fast and uncomplicated information on whether the controlled vehicle complies with the specifications or has possibly been manipulated during the standing noise measurement. In the case of oldtimers prior to 1980, the police must add 26 dB to the registered value if there is no letter in the letter behind the stand dB number. In the case of younger vehicles with a P behind the dB specification in the letter, only 5 dB tolerance is added. Vehicles prior to the 1954 year of construction under There was no clearly defined limit; it was with the general rule of § 1 StVO that no “burden” could arise. In addition, during the construction of the vehicles the “general state of the art” had to be adhered to. This is all nice and right. If there is a control, however, it is questionable whether a printed article of the OMA and a reference to Wikipedia prevents a seizure, if the officials are not familiar with the regulations. I don’t really get to be smart from § 49a StVZO or it doesn’t result in how to measure or if a near field measurement is carried out, which is obviously permissible, how much – the tolerance is left out of it – has to be calculated on top of it due to the other measurement method. According to Wiki 26 dB…, but where is this still standing? Can someone help me?