MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Wipe it off?

    Hello together, Today I was at a workshop that also looked after the factory cars of my employer and is only a few 100 m away from the operation. It was about my GOLF V (1K1) 1.4 FSI, year 2004 Diagnosis: – front wheel hub must be replaced 260 ,- – brake disc back right must be replaced – 270 ,- (can you not make both together = 2 x material; 1 x assembly?) Then came another call: – brake pads/blocks back right must be replaced 370 ,- Total 900 But I’m only layman. So far I’ve had everything done by an acquaintance, who is however prevented in the long term. I asked a friend and let him tell me that it would be much cheaper in other workshops, or if an acquaintance does it. Workshop called. I was told it was already dismantled and the reassembly would of course cost. It’s my fault, of course, that I originally agreed directly and he workshop did, I only thought of about 100-150 €. Can’t have taken too long. I received the invoice for 296 € gross in the workshop. I only had laymen, but even with an hourly wage of 100 € one would have needed 2.5 hours. That screams for incompetence, usury or even both. The worst thing is, of course, that I could have avoided it, I would have said directly that the prices did not fit me. Basically, I would have even compared before. However, I never expected such amounts. My chance for a complaint is over, but I’m still interested in whether the amounts are justified. What are your experiences? PS: Please excuse me if I made any mistakes. The whole thing was only a few hours ago.

  • great things for the R-Class

    Hello together, read again and again, that one or the other has been able to program what additionally, only with all the many posts I now have no overview. Can we summarize this one time? What is feasible? List simply complete… -Restliteranzeige -piepsen at the automatic tailgate …from many thanks

  • Connect a subwoofer to Comand 2.0

    Good day, I have the following problem: I have a Mercedes SL (R230) with Comand 2.0 so with no original Cinch output to realize this I bought a high-low adapter. this hirhttp://www.sound-pressure.de/High-End-UE-Transmitter-High-Low-Adapter An amplifier of the 1200Watt RMS at 2 ohmens is installed. A 12 inch (30cm) subwoofer with 2x 2Ohm which can withstand a power of 1000Watt. And an MDF housing brand own with 30 liters closed. I have the High-Low Adapte r connected to the front system of the SL. Since there are only 2 tweeters on the rear system with me and the bass comes from the doors of the front system. When I take the subwoofer into operation he has a maximum power of about 25%. He runs however not satisfied. If I now from a colleague a cinch cable from his car radio which has an external cinch output for the subwoofer to my amplifier go and take the subwoofer back into operation it runs about 4 times so loud. 1. Either the high-low adapter is defective. 2. The high-low adapter cannot process the signal from the command 2.0 correctly. When searching the forums I found several suggestions for solutions 1. An active high-low adapter e.g. USC from Xetec unfortunately cannot find any more to buy. 2. Soldering the cinch cable direck at the command 2.0.http://www.motor-talk.de/…/Attachment.html?attachmentId=437276 Page 6 Which solution do you find best?

  • SL purchase – exchange of experience

    Hello, I am currently looking for an R230 500 with <150,000 km and <20T€. Since I have already looked at several SL's offered on well-known online platforms and these were either not in accordance with the description or the telephone details of the dealers/owners or were unkept/in bad condition, I would like to ask the following question: Does one of the readers have information about the silver SL from Neu-Isenburg offered for 16,900€? The car seemed to me very well maintained, but what does not say about the condition "underneath"... Someone is still looking and has seen a car where the visit is not worth it? Then I (and others) possibly save a lot of kilometers... Thanks in advance for helpful comments! Link:http://suche.mobile.de/.../188610650.html?...

  • Clio 2 1.2 16V does not start

    Hello, our Clio didn’t jump this morning. The battery has 12.5V voltage, so ok. The lights in the speedometer were a bit weak, starter didn’t work at all (no voltage). After a few times ignition on/off, the lights were again stronger at the light, but still no voltage there on the starter (so nothing is going on). Then I released the handbrake briefly in the gear, and then it started. What could that be? Is the starter just stuck or something like that?

  • Austria – only E10 available

    Only as information for possible trips to/through Austria with Alteisen. Since the beginning of April there is no longer an E5. If the Möpp is not E10-suitable, there is only Super plus as alternative.

  • Oil loss

    Hello, Had recently discovered the car on stage and the following ( see picture) You can see the oil on the oil pan and on the cable, only this place, otherwise everything is dry and clean. I screwed the oil pan and screwed the fixing screw for the cable too. I could not find out, however, where does the oil come out. Is this the oil pan seal or the sensor that is screwed in there. has someone already had such a thing? It is a petrol tanker, R56 Cooper, BJ 2010, 122 HP, running leash ==References==

  • Mini Cooper tolls from 140 on the highway

    Hello Community, my Mini Cooper (Bj 2009, about 113.000km) had a motor damage about a year ago. The defective parts of the engine were completely replaced. Since then I drove about 20,000km. Everything seemed repaired. Since I live a good hour away from my parents’ house and like to drive home at the weekend, I have to drive over the highway. Just a few weeks after the repair of my engine the car started to jerk quite at about 140km/h on the highway. It seemed as if the car was braking while I was giving gas. The mileage dropped to max. 80km/h. In addition, the yellow engine light flashed. However, it went out again after 30 seconds and also the ruching was gone. So I drove to a BMW workshop and had the car checked. The dealer there first replaced the spark plugs. Unfortunately without success. The car still jerked. On my second visit the ignition coils were replaced. Also here no change. When I had the third M When I was driving into the workshop, BMW suddenly thought that the catalyst was defective and that the problem was solved. I also had it replaced. My mini was already in two different BMW/MINI workshops last year, none of which had been able to fix my car’s fault. Yesterday, I brought my car back to the workshop to complain about the repair. Today, I was told that it was the spark plugs again. I’ve lost a good 2,000€ for the repair of spark plugs, coils, cat, etc., I’m starting to end up with my Latin and need help. Does anyone know this problem or has tips like a solution? In addition, I’d be interested to know if I as a consumer have the right to demand back the money (for no reason) paid for the previous repairs of BMW/MINI. Best regards and many thanks to possible helpers!

  • Search SL

    Hello, I’ve been on the relevant stock exchanges for weeks and react either too slowly (then the interesting cars are gone) or I’ve just been disposed of what I’ve been looking at. I’m looking for an early SL with checkbook, ideally from 1 or 2 hands, from motorization if a 300 24V only with made ZKD, 500’er it doesn’t have to be. From KM no more than 220T and with a reasonable equipment. If everything works, have no desire for cars with maintenance jam (repairs should be verifiable). No craft shop á la deeper wider harder and 5000 watts plant. Original and peppered it should be. Price-wise I don’t want to fix myself yet depending on motorization and condition, but the price/performance ratio should be right. Ceiling is 900€. If he stands near Heidelberg it would definitely be a bonus. Does one of you have a sweetheart that he wants to hand in good hands…? Greeting, Robert Contact via PN o in the forum .

  • Too little tire pressure, but not noticed?

    Hello, I have registered here after frequent reading. I am Max , 20 years old, come from Minden (Westphalia) and currently drive a MX-5 of 99′. I was earlier at the gas station to check the air pressure. The device has on three wheels indicated 1,9 bar, except back left . 0,3 bar … Cann’t be that you see / notice … other tires 1,9. valve on corrosion or anything else… connector right pressed on the metal valve.. To my fr age it may be because of the relatively hard side walls of the tires (205ers with small cross-section on a 9J rim..) , since they are so stretched maybe that I don’t notice that? You have to notice that, I’m really not a layman now..as a car’s driver…