Hello, I would like to throttle my Yamaha dt 50 so that she can drive only 45 km/h, but I want to do it digitally and not let the poor engine suffocate. After the first time google ́n I came on speed limiters which have a switch. After I informed myself about the dinngern, it was clear: illegal, well great. Further searched, the result: throttled CDIs, then there is however a small problem: for the dt 50 row there is no g I was looking for further and found speed limiters with remote control, the installation was easy, the function of slowing down was given and without a direct switch. For me, however, the last question still arises: If I drive with such a speed limiter to the Tüv to have it registered or to have the “motorcycle” registered at 45 km/h, would I pass the Tüv or would the examiner send me with a slap in the ear into a workshop? I wait tensely and fully r Hope for an answer or a report as it is true for yourself, thank you already in advance (: Lg. ixigamer This time the post is also in the right category
Author: 00c12f
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S&S air filter: petrol drips onto the engine block
Hello, the previous owner has installed a S&S air filter at my Sporty, only the air filter, without S&S carburetor. Looks good, everything was great, the original was not there either. Problem: The not burned fuel (it seems quite a lot to me) collects in the air filter. If I put the bike on the side stand after a ride, it runs out and syphts over the engine block (see photo in annex). Not only looks ugly, I have to clean and puff more often on the hot Au also spuff (I’m not sure). Harley could not help me, that it is, in contrast to the original, an open air filter housing. I have now drilled a small hole in the lid, screwed a foam strip with the help of a suitable curved artificial strip inside in the housing (see photo in the appendix). My consideration: The foam absorbs the fuel, which can evaporate (sometimes partially) when the bike is parked, the next time the same Effek again t until the foam has to be replaced. Not a nice solution and it is also unclear whether this influences the air supply, I could not test it on a long distance. Does anyone have an idea for a better solution, maybe the same problem before? I wanted to solder a metal strip on the lower edge inside, but on the metal you can’t solder. Thank you in advance for any idea. And: Yes, I know it’s neither a beautiful nor a permanent one. But that’s why I’m here.
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Oil loss left crankshaft housing/uses help
Hello, you can help me with a problem. I completely removed the primary drive to install a gearbox offset and make a few overhauls. But I didn’t get to work on the mop for quite a while. But I had to find out in between that I had an oil loss on the crankshaft. I then cleaned everything with brake cleaner to locate the exit point. Strangely enough, I had no oil leak for weeks then, then at once again like crazy. I only had the bearing sealing ring (renewed on suspicion last year) in suspicion but by now I don’t think it’s because the bearing sealing ring as well as the distance ring crankshaft Sprocket Shaft are dry. But during that the stator is full of oil. I suspect the lower opening at the fixing wreath of the stator, especially since everything is oiled. Look at the picture!!!!. I don’t know what the openings should be for, it can be The stator is only fixed with four screws. So the questions are: Why does oil run out and sometimes not and where does the oil come from, what has to be done to fix it??? Thanks already to all who can help me!!!!
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Biker meeting in Saalbach Hinterglemm
Hi guys! So I was very excited about the event in Saalbach Hinterglemm. That was this weekend from 2.6. to 5.6.2011 Sure, you’re getting ripped off, but you’re also full of it. Super cool mood. Super cool mix of all kinds of bikers and bikes. Even the bikers from the Dubai Chapter were there and so much good. Also our police was in a good mood. I got to know really nice people and made nice friends. My new German friends h immediately join us for a trip to the Krimmler waterfalls and to the Gerlos. Was a super horny trip. BMW has also tested the latest BMW models on the Gerlos. Again regarding rip-off. You can surely find the cheapest variant but also the most expensive variant. Everything is possible. But what you can find here all about program, at party, at mood, at new friends, at dreamlike rides in the surroundings etc. is almost inexhaustible. K itzbühel, Dienten, Zell am See or the Großglockner are always worth a detour. There you are in the middle of the biker paradise. Food and drink are anyway of the finest. I will be back next year but surely 100%. Harleyluja PS: Oh yes, and here a few pictures. Unfortunately I could not be there everywhere with the camera. Also wanted to enjoy this event with my friends. But what should it be… A little insight is definitely there. Of course quite in the spec for those who couldn’t be there. Have fun and enjoy browsing through. Click here for the pictures: Just click there
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Proof of admissibility !!!
Moin Moin !!! I worked out a 99 Road King Classik 96 inch and had to go to the TÜV !!! And the honorable gentleman wants for footrests , handlebars (16″Fat Abe ) and tires (Dunlop 402F front and 402 back) have certified the admissibility !!! My question : Do I get these at a dealer or how does something like this work ?? And can I not stick the badge on me because of a worn engine storage ??? The Lord God in Green Kittel has it quite well after me !!! I hope to your answers and stay with friendly greeting !!! So long, Texas
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Motor damage 5 months after private purchase
Good evening, I fulfilled a (Alb) dream about 5 months ago and bought a Mazda MX-5 NA. Just 3 weeks after the purchase the car became too warm and I had it towed by the ADAC and repaired in a free workshop. Problem were allegedly clogged cooling lines, defective thermostat and cooler lid. After that I had to rest until the temperature problems appeared again and I recently installed a new cooler. Since the Mazda however one morning I had to install a new cooler. after a cold start only ran on 3 cylinders, I had the assumption that the cylinder head gasket is through and already water could stand in the cylinder and is therefore responsible for the problems. Now I brought the car with the ADAC to a colleague, who looked at the engine more closely. He found that the head seal is still good in shot, the wear pictures of the cylinders however for a leak, i.e. a crack in the engine block or cylinder head The engine burns cooling water and oil. In addition, I noticed that in the front area of the car there are all kinds of different colored parts (badly painted over in car colour), which clearly indicates an accident damage. However, in the purchase contract it says that the vehicle only – SOWEIT IHM (the seller) BEKANNT – has a dent in the fender. Since I am still a trainee in the first year of training and therefore financially not The MX-5 is my only car, so I need it and a complete repair of the engine would probably cost almost €2,000. A used engine is available for about €1,500 (because the “big” 1.8 engine is quite rare). I would like to just undo the purchase contract and not want to hear about all the crap anymore… What would your approach be in such a situation? ?
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Car “sale” in D with French registration
Perhaps someone knows this: My stepmother’s car is currently with us because it doesn’t get a Tüv anymore in France. And we would like to get rid of it now. How do I best go about it and what kind of document do I need for the authorities in France? Specifically, it’s about an Opel Astra H Twinport 2004 with 133tkm. Petrol with 1.6l 77kW. The French Tüv found some shortcomings on the last visit that could only be solved relatively expensively. This is why it has to go away. The car has a temporary badge until 18.02.2019. AU it passed. The defects to be corrected in detail: reverse gas lock defective (cost punctuation according to Opel ~500€, provisional patch is unfortunately not possible) hand brake almost without effect spring/”stabiliser” front left defective or bent license plate light at the rear defective (ok that would not be the problem ) Additional detected defects that do not have to be fixed: cable to the sensor for the Brem The next point is: How do I sell the car? Let it be scrapped and still pay on it? Call the buyer? Ebay? And how much would be still there if at all? The car is optically still well there. Right in front of the passenger door it just starts to bloom. Otherwise it has a working air conditioning system, leather steering wheel and cruise control. Five-speed manual transmission.
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Registered car sold without license plate
Moin, probably had another one of these days where you just don’t think. I sold ien registered car to an exporter who already lives a few 100km away. He just attached a red license plate to his purchase and pressed my license plate into my hand. I didn’t think that he would need it to log off/re-register. The car will probably be slaughtered and shipped to AFrika. How can I solve this now without having to drive there and join together to remove it? Could he possibly have a picture of a license plate that I have devalued? Can I have the registration mark devalued at the registration office and get a receipt that I can send him, which will then also have him deregistered at the registration office? I have also read something from an affidavit that the registration mark is irretrievably lost and so you can also unsubscribe the car. How much does this cost? Thanks already for your help
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Car sells buyer sues for alleged lack of equipment
Hello, I sold my car and also called into the display the whole equipment of the vehicle. So it was obvious how the vehicle is equipped and has no trailer coupling. I did this with the VIN number. Now the buyer complains that I had cheated on it because the trailer coupling is not present, although it was inside mobile. I complete that I have placed 2 ads, once at small ads and at mobile and at mobile he has the A The buyer accuses me that I had cheated him with it, even though the buyer showed up with other people on site and checked the whole vehicle. He also drove the test with it and with an OBD tester he examined everything. Now he forces me, although it is written in the contract, to transfer money to him for the clutch. Au he no longer wants to register the vehicle as agreed (I have received a deposit for the registration plates and he would have received the money again as soon as the vehicle has been registered, is also in the contract) and says that he first wants the money plus the deposit and then first sign off. My question now: I wrote in the contract sale without guarantee, excluded liability etc. and the buyer could check, see and test everything on the car. Am I to blame now? Do you think I’ll do it?
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Why don’t you give up the B-pillar?
Hello, especially Cabrios show that the crash safety can still be fulfilled without any problems. A waiver of the B-pillar would result in better use of space and a better overview. In addition, of course, their optical appeals. Today, bodies have been manufactured for a long time by mixed construction methods. For example, the body is completely made of aluminium, the A-pillars and the other frames of the front window, however, made of a high-strength steel alloy. Opel Meriva brings Schmetterlinstüren with them, which open up opposite to Rolls Royce. If one would now leave the B-pillar out, that would be a completely new room concept. My picture example shows a coupe, but here too must be given de Crash safety and that will definitely be it with Mercedes! So why? Cost? I’m sure that the rear doors have to be hung up somewhere. But with opposite doors you could easily do that. iben is still available, as can be seen here at the E-Class Coupe. The manufacturers often show this in studies, but in series I am not aware of a 4-door vehicle, which does not have a B-pillar. As I said, the rear door could also be hung up in the area of the C-pillar, or B-pillar, if the vehicle does not have one. The doors would then open opposite.