Author: 00c12f

Hello, I would like to point out the following problems in this topic: According to the EU Regulation 2019/1148 (here as full text: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/…/?uri=CELEX%3A32019R1148&%3Bfrom=EN ) the private purchase of various chemicals over a certain concentration is prohibited from 1.2.2021. Among them also sulfuric acid >15% concentration, which is used for refilling car batteries. Before the 1.2.2021 acquired stocks can still be owned until 01.01.2022. the possession of sulfuric acid >15% illegal. So those who still have old, non-maintenance-free batteries should take advantage of the opportunity and still cover themselves with sufficient material. By the way, this ban does not apply to sulphuric acid, which is in car batteries (see https://fulbat.com/new-regulation-for-the-sale-of-acid-for-batteries/ ) VG

Hello guys. I drive an old Super Seven. When I bought the car, it was extremely loud because the engine was massively adjusted. The end pot was completely empty, so the sound had an extremely unpleasant pitch, which hurt the ears at medium/higher speeds. The car consists next to the seven-typical chassis of parts of different car models. There are no “original parts” for the car, the exhaust is a universal part. I can therefore within the db registration in the paper legally exchange. 3 years ago I used a significantly larger rear silencer, so that the car became much quieter (approx. 80db). But after a long search and testing I got the car car car / engine adjustment, the car has now become much quieter again and thus it lost its sporty characteristics. It has now subjectively less sound than a GTI. Entered are 88db. They do not necessarily have to be (the tube e My goal, however, is a more nuanced sound, especially when it comes to gas. Currently, a round pot is 420mm long and 150mm diameter installed. A size smaller would be 125mm diameter (length remains the same). It has a calculated 30% less volume. Does any of you have any idea what that does with the sound / how much db louder the slimmer pot is expected? Tips? Of course I don’t want to have to buy different end pots in the Trial & Error 5.

Hello, I have now taken over a car.. TÜV fresh without defects Extensive used car warranty Unknown water damage, which according to information may have been maximum in the footroom of the car. Car was extensively repaired according to dealer. Steering column, gas pedal, throttle flap, window lifter incl. electrics was everything renewed and repaired. He had informed me about the water damage. However, since the dealer made such a very good impression, good reviews had been online and I had the aut o with both TÜV, as well as with inspection and warranty, I have seen the damage as fixed. Almost like a paint damage, which one specifies, but does not have important for the function of the car. Now I am totally unsure… I myself read topics where I find all the information from “no problem if it has been repaired properly” to “no matter what, the car is repaired itself not durable”. Dealer says himself that he is important to the customer is satisfied, happy to come back and his Ges This is why it would not fit if he sold a car, whose durability he could not guarantee by the damage alone. Now the child may have fallen into the well, because I did not pick up the car yet, but had already completed the purchase… I wanted to have the car checked by a specialist workshop after taking over. How are the experiences with a water damage in general, if the car after that extensively revised Rde?

Hello, this is a crosspost from the W205 forum, as I seem to be an individual case and it is not a model-specific problem. I changed spark plugs a few months ago, but I noticed that the spark plug from the 3rd cylinder is significantly blacker (see picture in the appendix). However, the car drives quite normally. Black, dry spark plugs should be a too fat mixture, so injector broken, respectively leaking? The CCs were now the prescribed int 15tkm. Have been original MB candles and have now been replaced with NGK SILZKFR8D7S (probably exactly the same as the original MB, since also “Made in Japan”. What I have done so far: * Ignition coil of 1st and 3rd cylinder replaced. Result: The 3rd cylinder continues to produce a darker spark plug (see second spark plug image) * Compression measurement with Bosch compression tester. All cylinders are between 11 and 13 bar, whereby the 3rd cylinder with 11 Bar delivers the lowest result. I don’t know any more, but I don’t want to change the injector to good luck either. The vehicle is a Mercedes C180 pre-mopf with approx. 66tkm from 2015. Thanks for reading!