Hi, the Calibra has always been my dream car and just now there is one at the dealer: 12.97 EZ Last Edition in dark green, leather, climate, BBS Alus etc. so just the standard equipment of the LE. 120.000knapp down (unfortunately only the X20XEV) signposted with full warranty, TÜV/AU, full fuel etc. pp. for 5200€, so I still think pushable to 4500-4700€ since I have already bought 5 cars there in the last years. The only drawback: I have a new car that is just over 1 year old (Astra) -H Caravan)…but he would certainly take it back. That shouldn’t fail…the place in the station wagon I give up for such a beautiful car with a good conscience. Now to my questions: – Finn has a nine in the Fgst-No.? – What to say about the X20XEV…good care = very robust? – I think with one of the really very last models there should be no technical problems with child diseases or? Rust should also not be a Tehma!? – Is the price realistic!? And last but not least: from what f I should pay special attention and should strike, as far as everything fits, or rather look further (would tend to have a V6 with gas system)
Author: 00c12f
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have it now at last (clear glass headlights)
huhu people , they finally got the horny clear glass parts… so I have to say for 149.99€ they are really a bargain. Shine nice far and the look is simply horny, they are also 100% fitting exactly. Had no problems during the assembly. here in the appended times some photos.http://serverberlin65.de/upload/DSCF0565.JPGhttp://serverberlin65.de/upload/DSCF0566.JPGhttp://serverberlin65.de/upload/DSCF0567.JPG
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mercedes R129 SL300 from 1989 does not start
Hello We have a r129 SL300 from 1989 here. Read a lot in the forum, but I can’t get any further… It doesn’t start after a break of 8 years. We’ve done the following: – at first fresh petrol fueled. When the pump is lit, you hear a short sum of the pump, but no fuel arrived to the front of the volume divider. After several attempts we had fuel until the volume divider. On the individual cylinders, however, still no fuel. – All 6 spark plugs have Z It starts with the start pilot and stays on until we spray in. In addition, we cleaned all torpedo fuses and the slots and put them back in. One thing strikes me: The button for the hardtop lights permanently and it only unlocks at the front and back it just clacks… maybe it’s because?? Does anyone have an idea? Maybe the crankshaft sensor? But it releases the ignition and that’s there… Would be grateful for tips.
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SL 500 Electrical,Battery, Central Locking Problems
Good day, I’m new here in forum, have already researched a lot, but unfortunately not found the right one. I have a SL 500 R230 BJ 2004 130,000 km. The vehicle cannot be opened in cold, neither via the key nor via the Keyless Go card. If I then take the emergency key and open the vehicle, the alarm system immediately goes on. If I then put myself in the vehicle and want to start it, the car does not recognize the key (you can’t turn it in the lock) keyl The battery of the SL is also not empty, has been bought anew and was also charged the day before. I am also a danger the day before about 50 KM. Yesterday it was from noon about 18 degrees and the car can be opened easily ( via key and keyless Go). The vehicle goes on quite normally (electric consumer is also not shown). (In the morning it was 5 degrees and it was not possible) That has surely happened to me already 10 times and it is located It’s definitely about whether it’s cold or warm outside. Can’t explain it to me. (I don’t mean -20 degrees with cold, but about 5 degrees) My consumer battery is completely empty even after about 10 days when the vehicle is standing. However, the Mercedes workshop has not detected any power consumption over 2 days. Batteries of keys and keyless go card are also new, so that’s not what it is. Today the vehicle went up, but the warning flasher flashed and g In addition, the speedometer has failed again and again. But the whole thing was over after 5 min drive as if nothing had ever been. Unfortunately, I don’t know any more and hope someone can help me here. Thanks in advance.
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The sorry top, electrics Ok, hydraulics ???
Servus, Hab hier eine 97er (MOPF 1) SL 270 von nem Technisch nicht gesonderlich Versierten Freunden, der an Erektionsschwacht, i.e. the Benz not the known 🙂 !!! The top works perfectly up to half and then it’s over. The window lifters funk in the automatic impeccable and the roll bar is also functional without any faults. The control unit has already been repaired and also found by Mercedes in Vienna as impeccable. Hydraulic fluid is new and it All of them have already been executed and checked by the friendly. Battery is new and fully charged. To the symptoms… When the switch is activated, the whole process is completely normal until the top is about vertical and then there is no more. Close goes on here. The blinking out has probably resulted in “some mistake in the hydraulics”. Now good advice is expensive, if you look at the prices. Since no oil loss or leakage is to be determined. I don’t know now either. In my opinion, the next step is simply not initiated here and as far as I know there are no electrical limit switches integrated here or am I mistaken ??? Could it actually lie on the cylinders or rather on the valves ? Can I check it. Would be very grateful about tips and field help
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Mercedes SL R129 as beginner
Hello, Since I soon have a driver’s license, I have already thought about a car. Since I was a small child, the SL of the R129 series did it to me. Since no one in my circle of acquaintances is particularly familiar with cars, I wanted to ask questions here. Is this realistic to drive an SL as a starter? The SL would cost me about 800€ insurance per year, according to my colleagues, this is normal as a starter to buy the SL itself should also not be a P Be roblem, rather the consumption, My uncle rides a SL, year 1992, which consumes about 20L, but I have only interested in the Mopf2 version, which was built from 1998 because this revised engines received, according to Mobile needs a SL 500 12.7 liters on 100km, that would be as much as the SL 280 before ’98. What do your SL 280/320/500 consume? What do they need in urban traffic, what on land, and what do they consume on the highway so much on the land. Which question still asks me, what does it look like to import from an SL from the USA, comparable models are often cheaper there, does someone have experience with it? What should I generally pay attention to when buying a car about 20 years old, or is that anyway a complete snap idea? Greetings from Bavaria
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Dissolve oil pump – Enveloped screw
With my 85er GPz 750UT the starter freewheel is defective. The engine wants to start, but it doesn’t work because of loud clack-klag-klag etc. Since I have never changed the freewheel, I try this first with the spare parts engine. Oil pan away, clutch basket away and now the oil pump would be on it. The problem: One of the screws is closed and can not be solved. Is the original so that the screw does not loosen? (see photo) Do you have an idea how to use the Schra ube get out? Edit: Added the photo
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ZX900C goes out at 160 km/h speed – throttled
Hello, I have now throttled my ZX900C with suction blinds and gas slide flaps and it drives quite well only goes it as soon as I have about 160km/h and does not jump for approx. 3-5min more than if it had to cool down first. I am not sure but I already heard a click for the second time and then I could hit it again. Before it was throttled (alpha technology throttle set: suction blinds + gas slide throttle) I drove about 200km/h but she went The temperature indicator is also in the normal range before it goes out. Before going out, I also pulled the coupling in 2 out of 3 cases to slow down but I don’t think it’s because of it. The only thing that comes to my mind is that maybe the throttle has to be driven in, and I don’t know if you have to drive in such a thing at all and the second is that maybe because of the attached intake channel more heat is produced and I need other spark plugs.
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GPX 600R goes out…
Hello people I have a test with a `97 GPX 600R. The moped sometimes goes off during the ride, first the DZM falls to zero, the remaining electrics does not make any bitches. Sometimes it then goes directly again, but usually it takes a few minutes,(thermal problem??). The starter orgs clean, the exhaust then stinks to fuel. The candles are 3tkm in, the problem appeared with the old candles but also already, the candle shafts are dry and clean, the Ga The problem occurs very digitally, either the engine runs or not, no jerking or drop-outs before or after, but simply on or off, and the frequency also varies very, sometimes over hundreds of km nothing, then within 20 km three times. Since the DZM always falls to zero, also in sliding mode, I suppose an electrical problem. Since this imme r only occurs when the engine is warm, I think that some component can no longer be used from time to time……… someone has an idea where I should first look? Maybe someone has a WHB lying around??? Thank you for your answers Greetings Jason
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Kawa GPZ chain properly and simply lubricate ..
Hello, I know there are plenty of topics on this topic throughout the internet but I don’t look through there and hope you can help me faster and more directly. We bought a Kawa GPZ.. yes is an old machine but super maintained and looks just great.. my friend had a shopper before and this was honestly not well maintained by him, thus the chain continued down. Well my question, which is the best method to oil a chain / grease? I h h abe read by tubs that you should build, then simply read by spraying with chain spray and and and . how do you do this and especially how often ? Sounds kind of stupid to ask but since there are so many different opinions and handling, it seems to be a far-reaching topic . I thank you first for your help LG Myself