Hello, we’re just looking for a used Tarraco. Actually it should be a 190hp diesel in the equipment Xcellence. Alternative would be a FR, but I am unsure about the seats. The FR usually has the sports seats with a firmly integrated headrest. Is there someone around the 2m and has experience with these seats? I myself am 1.99m and had, when I was sitting with a colleague in the Skoda Octavia RS, so my problems with the sports seats. support there much too low, was really unpleasant if you wanted to lean on the head. Of course I can not get around a longer seat sample myself, but unfortunately no seat or used car dealer in my vicinity currently have a FR. Therefore my question as here are the experiences of larger people with the sports seats in the FR, especially with regard to the height of the headrest.
Author: 00c12f
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“Globus” remains gray/cannot become a main user / Seat Connect login is not possible.
Hello together, we picked up our Tarraco PHEV today (on 29.09.21). Do you have to do something to make the “globus” white? First I wanted to register as a “main user”, but what always fails… first “later” I saw that the “globus” is not white. Also with my private W-Lan the registration fails. Someone an idea? Or did my dealer not “open” the car yet?
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Redirecting the problem to the right
hello together since unfortunately no one could really help me so far with my problem, I try it here once. if you drive over 40kmh and then drive into a right turn, I have a continuous buzz. to the left one hears nothing. have changed on it wheel bearings, crossbar bearings and drive shaft joint wheel side. but also after the exchange the noise is still available. what could it still be. so many options what it could be, should nevertheless not exist anymore be. a friend has said that the differential drive could be defective the track I still have to set, because he meant it could also be because, what I rather doubt if someone still has a good tip, can post it gladly
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Ford Escort goes out while the turn lasts.
Hello, So I have the following problem, if I brake e.g. shortly before an exit, and get slower before the car comes to the stand the engine off (he can then also start again quite normally) The same also occurs if I drive e.g. out of a gyro, so as soon as you drive slower than 15km/h or so. It happens to me that the number of revolutions at the stand is very low….approx. 700-1000. In short, it is unique for every brake at the turn. The number of shots during this time also went up to 4000, without me operating the gas. But only once occurred in the last 5 months. What can this be? Because it is dangerous that the engine runs out in the middle of the traffic, the power steering then switches off and what happened to me once, that the steering wheel lock is locked in. Engine as said can be started in the cold state quite normally without noises etc., so also when driving again without problem e. My car: Ford Escort VII Kombi Built 95 1.6 i 16V 88PS, Zetec Motor Hope someone can help me! Thanks a lot in advance
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Hole in the tank?
Hello Essi friends, I have a problem which has been annoying me for a long time. My Ford loses gasoline and that constantly, actually since I got it. I have to refill the stuff constantly. So about all 600 KM. Also a visit to the ADAC did not bring a solution. It must be a hair crack in the tank, the inspector said. I would gladly remove the problem. Maybe seal the tank from inside. What do I use best? Construction foam or silicone, plastic? That is not supposed to be be so good for the environment, I have heard. Not to mention the danger of fire! MfG Dirk 😉
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Injection nozzles RS2000 compressor
Hello dear Ford community, as a former Ford driver, I would like to ask you a question. A familiar plans a compressor conversion. Some things are still to be clarified. The basis is an RS2000 2.0l 16V engine, which has now got a 2.3 fuselage. But the injection system is still series. The compressor is from the 1.4 TSI. Holding devices and the like are already implemented, the thing fits well pure… With the question of sufficient supply of fuel is us di e Question with the maximum throughput of the original injection nozzles came to mind. He already has an adjustable petrol pressure regulator, but we are not sure if that will be enough. As an idea, the injection system of the 2.3 scorpio motor came to mind. When comparing the single-point nozzles, we noticed that these 2.3 nozzles have two holes. Probably a duller angle of the spray image is formed during the single-point process, if the amount is higher we do not know. has anyone ever gained experience? The problem is that the channel through which the fuel injected enters the combustion chamber is wider at the 2.3l and thus also the duller angle of the spray image (sounds as funny :-)) can be realized. The 2.0l, on the other hand, has a narrower channel and at the same time only a bore at the outlet of the nozzle. The question is now, can one take the 2.3l nozzles (so they have a higher throughput)? We believe that when using the 2.3l nozzles around 2.0l injection channel, the beam is reflected by the wall, so to speak, and then, if necessary, returned to the combustion chamber, which is again unfavorable for the ignition process. Or is it better to take completely different nozzles, i.e. which ones with a hole like the 2.0l original, but with more cfm? If there is such a thing, then the question would be where and how expensive and how much cfm is d ann useful? Thanks for the answers mfg Chris
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Where do you all come from and what do you drive?
I opened this trhead to see where you all come from ! Start then ! 55768 hoppstädten-weiersbach Reihnland-Pfalz kurtz vorm Saarland Drive ne Honda Ns1 (according to Tacho just over 120 km/h) And have still ne honda MB8 (according to tacho 90 km/h) MfG Mario
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Tyres mounted incorrectly on rims
Hello! I have the following problem: I got used summer tires as a gift. Made by Michelin Primacy not wired in the direction of running. These have about 6 mm profile. I had them mounted on my aluminium rims on Friday. When changing wheels, I noticed that the tires are mismovated. Outside (outside) shows inside and the inside (inside) outwards. May I mount these tyres and what effects does this have on driving behaviour and wear? the tires burst? The vehicle is actually only a second vehicle because I have a company car. Used tires usually have a side that is a little more worn out. It may be that the fitters have seen this and therefore the sides have changed so that the better side is more stressed and the tires run more evenly. Thank you!
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Unexplained tyre pressure loss
I’m looking for a reason for tyre pressure loss, namely for two winter tyres “CONTINENTAL TS850 205/55R16 91H” mounted on original Mercedes-Benz aluminium rims. Already in the last winter season 2016/2017 there was regular air loss on the front axle mounted wheels. I didn’t find the reason. Maybe bad people who play regularly on the wheels, but only at the front? Unprobably, but possible. Especially since the wheels in the winter season 2014/2015 and In the winter season 2015/2016, I was inconspicuous. A nasty screw made one of the summer tires go out today. As the seasonal wheel change is about to take place, I spontaneously wanted to mount the winter wheels with the said Conti tires, which hung on the garage wall. To my surprise, however, the two front wheels were pressureless, while the two rear wheels were in order. I briefly visited my local free workshop in the place. One wheel had 0.3 bar, the other wheel has It is possible that the wheels lose virtually all the pressure, although hanging on the wall and in accordance with the water bath examination in order, he would never have experienced. If it is possible that the air can escape to zero over several months, at the water level, the air can escape to zero. but doesn’t show anything? Or does anyone have a different explanation?
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What to do if you have been cheated???
Hello, I spent in May my old car plus 200 € for a 95 ford escort combi. the salesman assured me he had completely checked the car and carried out fluid changes. it was his wife’s car and he had to enter her name in the purchase contract now because the car had been registered on her. I finally moved to Austria before 2 weeks ago. there you have to have the car checked again before you can register it completely. after the dur I found out that the car was completely broken once again by a ford dealer. timing belts all the car body and so on. the repair would be 500€ and the tuv seal should not wear this vehicle either. My question now to you…. WHAT CAN I DO? the dealer pushes everything away to a coworker and doesn’t want to take the car back! Do we have a CHANCE to get the money back?