MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Golf 4 Appendix

    Sodele, after I have sold my Golf 3 and have bought me now a 4er golf, asks me again the question for a clever system. Radio I still have, also a very good one, of therefore only the question for the boxes. in the 3er I have on the shelf the Canton QS 3.28, whereby I now want to do nothing on the shelf would like to build me in front in the doors again the Focal 165 v2. amplifier inside suitcaseaum ( I also have) and then stop the question for the subwoofer h would have a Syrincs BP12-300 to choose from (unfortunately no idea how it is ?! fills times n report by jmd. how it is) or one of Infintiy, the 1200 b or the one of Canton CS 200 at sub would like to have something that does not crack bass and not so long tubes… so if jmd. can help me or can give suggestions for boxes and sub, I would be very grateful ! priceless the boxes front up to max 150-250€ and the subwoofer also around 150-20€ many thanks

  • Which sub(s) for good sound???

    Hi mitnander, want to convert my Töftöf weng this winter and bring in nice sound (no more pressure). Couple of components are already fixed. Actually all! *g* Only with the Subs I have ez weng mind. Just perform everything! HU: Alpine CDA-9853R HTs: DT-284 @ Audison LR3041 MTs: Rainbow W100 @ ESX V150.2 TMTs: CIARE CW-162 @ ESX V800.2 Subs: were Soundstream USA 10″ planned @ ESX V800.2 then still weng Caps and ne add-onbat yesterday at Pietklokke ma wenda weng leveled (M and there I have my concerns, that my two SOUNDSTREAM USA 10″ which should actually come in, probably never and never will come as far down/deep as his two HERTZ ES300. Besides, they could possibly throw with the CIAREs, which get a quite good juice and kräftgi sin, get in the way…!? Listen a lot of dance, but also ma Black (because of dance I wanted first the 25s) etc…! Ausbau wirg klang, everything in the trunk in GFK! Evtl, if it doesn’t go differently, remains the Backbench auch hausen! (is still from the last expansion outside) Have ez decided to switch to one or 2 30s. 38s is too slow for me because of Dance weng…! Have still 2 30s Raptors lying around, but the sin here anyway completely out of place! So, long speech, short meaning: What could/would you recommend to me??? Can also be used, but should not exceed an Azubi budget of total 250.-€ for Subs! And not necessarily the ES300! Don’t want the same in ham as the Buddy! Thanks for reading through and your tips!!! mfg US-Corry

  • DT only starts by pushing, battery full

    Hello together, I’m just getting my old DT 125 RE back in shape and now I have a problem at the start. She stood for 6-7 years and after I changed all the liquids, I tried to start it. It was clear that the battery was flat after the time so it was called push on. I then pushed her about 20 times with us a small hill and at some point she then jumped on. Uhh everything good! The following days I pushed her through again and again Now I changed the battery because it was 11 years old. The battery was fully charged. Now I tried to start it via the E-starter, but it doesn’t start. The starter turns, but it doesn’t work. If I roll it a bit and let the clutch come when the gear is in place, it is immediately on. What could that be? I would have the idea now that the engine has too little compression and the starter does not manage to start it. I wouldn’t think of anything else right now. It just doesn’t matter that she’s drunk because of too much fuel, but he’s supposed to be gone when he gets started and then it should work.

  • Yamaha r6 does not take gas or rotate over 1500

    Servus people I have the following problem for 2 days, when I wanted to start driving my r6 (rj03-99 year of construction) went out directly after a few meters, then you went on again and then only push through half-lived, the whole then no matter how much gas I gave only in the range of 1000- 1500 revolutions. I then dismantled everything, installed new spark plugs and assembled again, then it went on the test short quite normal. everything again and the same problem until the Bat I tried it again yesterday and it was like that again, start and it went, I changed and wanted to turn a round and it remained hanging again at 1500 revolutions. I then dismantled the carburettor and completely cleaned ( 3 out of 4 of these brass nozzles around carburettors were almost completely too) I put everything back together this morning and then had the stand gas too high, when it went on everything wonderful she turned only directly up to 6000, again out of the and the end of the song is that you didn’t want to go over 1500 again. I almost did it like that (with a hand permanently brought on the gas to 80°C but it didn’t improve anything. so if I don’t give a gas you go out, if I give full gas happens nothing, the rope doesn’t hang and has nothing to do with the shock was not jammed or anything else. what do you mean the whole thing is ? is somehow the fuel pump down or maybe the fumes, which other res doesn’t really come to mind anymore. have the little one for about a month, she has something about 47 K on the tacho and I drove with her now to the 850 km without any problems. am grateful for all tips and tricks.

  • Yamaha Aerox starts only with startpilot

    To my problem. I have a conversion on my aerox behind me. It also works everything, only he doesn’t want to start. I always need startpilot. And then also not directly the first time. It runs as long as the spray is enough and then goes out. The third time it works but then. So a sparke is 100% there. The carburettor is also OK, otherwise it wouldn’t drive. But it’s not perfectly set yet. A thermostat is not installed, but that’s not absolutely necessary. I It’s not 1:50 in the tank. I was a bit sloppy. But I have fueled petrol again today, so it’s not (more) too much engine oil in the tank. But now my carburettor setting doesn’t fit. However, the setting should not be so decisive that it doesn’t start. In addition, it starts up to an hour after driving on its own. So as long as it’s still warm. The warm helps the engine to start, but the scooter never stands cold. The cold is also not the reason I think. However, it may be that the petrol in the hose vlt runs back during the service life and does not get gassed when kicking or with e starter. Many conjectures and ideas. I don’t know any more and hope for help. Mfg

  • Motor goes off as soon as the side stand is outside

    Good day, my machine has problems with the side stand from time to time. I know only two systems with side stand, once the first gear is inserted automatically. (only from hearsay had such a thing never) and when the first gear is inserted the motorcycle goes off. My motorcycle does not start at the moment when the side stand is outside. If the engine is already running and no gear is inserted, the machine goes off immediately when the stand is folded out. There is a problem that bothers me little. You have a main stand, but I want to fix it of course. Does anyone have any suspicions? I can’t believe that the switch is a defect, because it only works wrong in itself. Can someone help me there? Or should it be quite normal? mfg Calli

  • xj 650 no sparks

    Hello to all I’ve got xj 650 4kosince 11.2016 unfortunately a problem has arisen where I can often give someone a advice I have no ignitionSparking no more With no candle plug is a spark more I’ve already checked the following had used ignition coils these we had installed has not changed anything also we have changed the CDI Now I’m waiting for suggestions from I’m open for every advice the problem has arisen after 3 weeks of standstill . the XJ gemnacht was the oil wnnen seal I have replaced the moped has run before. I have only moved the Killschlter times The moped is actually in a good condition at a picture of the moped THANK YOU already in advance for the answers

  • Control chain or timing belt?

    The days as an autolaie fell from my eyes like dandruff, that the sounds in the warm-up phase, which I have observed for a very long time (years?), could come from the control chain. However, I also read here that it is doubtful whether such old Toyotas have a control chain at all (alternative seems to be a timing belt). According to the information in the vehicle certificate it is probably a Toyota Avensis Liftback 2.0 T22. Automatic and petroler from the registration year 1998. the steering chain? If I remember correctly, a rotational exchange of the timing belt (?) had been made after maybe 60 or 75,000 kilometers. I could probably still read this in the corresponding booklet. I avoid driving with the vehicle at the moment, because it is supposed to be dangerous if the part is tearing. Since I will take the car somewhere in the next week – unfortunately I am here in the counter despite some contacts with workshops not yet enthusiastic about a voice – want to be present, I try to find out something here with you. Should one in such a case better visit a workshop specialized in Toyota? Thank you!

  • Electric parking brake dead? [T27]

    Zühülf! Wouldn’t have thought to post here so quickly because of a defect … Sister just on the way with the Avensis (T27) when suddenly the warning check parking braking system is displayed. Apparently, the brake was automatically solved at the start. Just checked the responsible fuse in the engine compartment and that is ok, cables look good so far. Manual operation of the parking brake switch does not result in any feedback. chem on/off the engine, short drive and a new attempt. If, despite the warning signal, you continue driving, you quickly get an annoying acoustic warning … Means: the parking brake can no longer be pulled. Question(s): What can be the problem and is there the trick17 or must a workshop be consulted (possible costs?)? Thank you very much!

  • Rear axle overbraked (picnic)

    Hello together, have a new problem with my 97er Picnic. This has ABS and as far as I know no load-dependent brake force distributor (LSPV) on the rear axle. For a short time the rear axle is immediately blocked with a slightly sharper brake and then the ABS starts to regulate. I do not have to drive fast. Already at approx. 30-50 km/h a little stronger stepped on the brake, already it squeaks at the rear and the ABS regulates. The whole happens well before the front wheels start to br The whole thing started about 1-2 weeks ago. I noticed it when braking before a traffic light. Now it gets stronger and comes almost with every slightly stronger braking. About 9 months ago I had a fixed brake cylinder at the front (cuff of the guide bolt was torn, therefore water penetrated, guide bolts rusted and clamped). After a freeway ride the rim was hot and steamed. I made the brake caliper again popular and with new machines. For safety I was also connected to the TÜV and had the braking effect checked. All values were ok. Also a month later at the HU the brake values were impeccable. What could be the overbraking of the rear axle? Thank you and greeting, Niko